[SKUTTLE] - K20 Shuttle - world's first on track - update 3/27/14
theonlysteve
Band Wagon
New Zealand based Honda Cup, Big Al and Rworks are going to build what will possibly be the world's first dedicated circuit racing K20 powered Shuttle.
Contents:
1. [post=198405]Stripping[/post]
2. [post=198406]Shell preparation[/post]
3. [post=198408]Dash preparation[/post]
4. [post=198440]Underside stripping[/post]
5. [post=198441]Windows, wing, wheels & watts[/post]
6. [post=198442]Racetech seat[/post]
7. [post=200931]Rear suspension[/post]
8. [post=200932]Front suspension and engine mounts[/post]
9. [post=200933]Seat install[/post]
10. [post=201515]Seating fitting continued[/post]
11. [post=201516]Steering wheel and column[/post]
12. [post=201517]Seat mount[/post]
13. [post=205768]More seat mounts, special sauce shocks and Hardrace bits[/post]
14. [post=205769]Hub work and front lower arms[/post]
15. [post=205770]Passengers[/post]
16. [post=205771]Front arms[/post]
17. [post=205772]Cage building[/post]
18. [post=207114]More cage and rear crossmember[/post]
19. [post=209447]K20 in hole! Also shocks and brakes[/post]
20. [post=209562]Pipercross filter and brakes[/post]
21. [post=212365]Christmas teasers[/post]
22. [post=215986]Hood work[/post]
23. [post=216675]Exhaust[/post]
Sponsors, suppliers and supporters:
Alert Motorsport
ATS brakes
Hardrace suspension components
Hasport
Honda Cup
K-Tuned
Kingpin Machine bearings
PCI bearings
Racetech seats
Rota wheels
Rworks
Shorai batteries
Special Projects motorsport
Contents:
1. [post=198405]Stripping[/post]
2. [post=198406]Shell preparation[/post]
3. [post=198408]Dash preparation[/post]
4. [post=198440]Underside stripping[/post]
5. [post=198441]Windows, wing, wheels & watts[/post]
6. [post=198442]Racetech seat[/post]
7. [post=200931]Rear suspension[/post]
8. [post=200932]Front suspension and engine mounts[/post]
9. [post=200933]Seat install[/post]
10. [post=201515]Seating fitting continued[/post]
11. [post=201516]Steering wheel and column[/post]
12. [post=201517]Seat mount[/post]
13. [post=205768]More seat mounts, special sauce shocks and Hardrace bits[/post]
14. [post=205769]Hub work and front lower arms[/post]
15. [post=205770]Passengers[/post]
16. [post=205771]Front arms[/post]
17. [post=205772]Cage building[/post]
18. [post=207114]More cage and rear crossmember[/post]
19. [post=209447]K20 in hole! Also shocks and brakes[/post]
20. [post=209562]Pipercross filter and brakes[/post]
21. [post=212365]Christmas teasers[/post]
22. [post=215986]Hood work[/post]
23. [post=216675]Exhaust[/post]
Sponsors, suppliers and supporters:
Alert Motorsport
ATS brakes
Hardrace suspension components
Hasport
Honda Cup
K-Tuned
Kingpin Machine bearings
PCI bearings
Racetech seats
Rota wheels
Rworks
Shorai batteries
Special Projects motorsport
Comments
Let me know if you need anything. Really like to see some pics up soon. The kids are gonna lose it lol
Al didn't seem too unhappy on Monday morning when he came in. He actually put a beer crate in for a seat and took it for a quick lap of the block to check out the new suspension setup. Yes, it was registered and WOF'd.
Being a freebie, most of the work will be done at night. Al's first job was the one that everyone hates removing the sound deadening from inside the car. He has his own way of doing it no dry ice and no heat... and no more details here, but it works. A bit on Monday night...
Time to get rid of the old single cam'er. It was surprising how well it went considering its age and kilometres. Someone want it complete with ECU and shifter? Give us a call and donate to the K20 project.
Next up wiring and underseal removal. The decision had been made to retain the OEM headlights and tail lights as the car may be doing some enduro racing. Think positive!
The OEM loom had to be opened up and all the surplus wiring removed. A day and it was done with a small pile ready for the scrap bin. The coin was tossed and the boys got the wiring and Al got the body sealer yes !
Done!
The left overs:
Now the absolutely worst job on any Honda build, removing the seam sealer. We have tried soda blasting, co2 blasting, heating and scraping, but the bloody stuff just won't come off. It weighs a ton and there is no way you can TIG or MIG weld any where near it... but wait. Al has this amazing tool that just chews it off. Still bloody noisy, dirty hard work but it does an amazing job... and at just under $1000 it should do.
Welcome to the MBX.
The "teeth" on this one are getting near the end of their life but you get the idea. It needs a real beefy compressor to run it continuously and a very strong arm to hang on to it, but it really does the job.
Starting in the engine bay after the RH engine mount has been removed as its not used in a K conversion.
More inside the right rear guard getting the idea?
After the gas tank is removed you have this:
And after the first rough cut you have this:
From another view:
And:
After some trimming and seam welding you get this:
One night's work and Big Al had laid down a continuous weld right around the edge.
With the gas tank out and the decision not to reuse it, he decided that the filler pipes needed to go and that the feed cavity could be trimmed and capped. Sounds easy but another long night for Al.
When we came in we checked out what he had done, it had all been done with oxy-acet. Why? Because he could.
Al has never like the area behind the rear wheels . Every floor that hes done he has trimmed these. Because there is no customer looking over his shoulder on this job, he has a free hand. So it was no surprise when we came in after the weekend that we found the rear water collectors on the Shuttle had completely gone. These areas are used for holding the tools in the Shuttle, but are prone to collecting water and rusting out. Al's reason for the cut is more aero than rust, but he can explain later.
Now you see it:
Now you don't. Weight saving, rust removal and Al's aero ideas all in one.
And done:
Al let the boys have a go with the welding. What a mess. Al had to clean up!
Another project on the go, Spoon FD2R, full rebuild, FIA cage... but that's another story.
Time to finish off tidying up the inside. Finish off removing all the seam sealer, removing all the redundant brackets and to start covering all the holes in the floor pan and bulkhead. This is a MSNZ requirement.
Al decided to try a new method covering the holes. Sheet metal cut to fit and urethane adhesive. Yes, that old seam sealer by another name. No distortion and a water and flame resistant seal. Even dummies can do it!
Big Al is always telling us weight is bad... until we tell him to lose 10kg! Less weight = more speed is his catch cry. He hates weight up high and on the ends. You see him smiling when he gets hold of the cutting disc or grinder.
Yes, the Shuttle needs a decent dose of Jenny Craig. What is it this month? The Jenny 360.
Being a four door there is plenty of weight in the extra doors, so we decided to get started right there. Before they were removed we had a rough cut on the inner skin to see what were were dealing with. Whoa, a really beefy door intrusion panel. Way heavier than an EK or DC2.
Now doors off and time to get the glass out and get stuck in. First, get those intrusion panels out. Tricky little b’s. Spotted at each end and body sealed in the middle.
Al was showing us how to put some moly sheet metal under the panel he was drilling and cutting. He stuffed up and stuck the drill half way through the door panel! Better shut up or the next shit job will be mine...
Right when he does it, just after he told us to be careful.
The intrusion panels, estimated 4kg each.
Did the weight reduction lock removal. We even removed the kiddy locks on the rear doors.
Half way there. Now ready for some holes.
Swiss cheese. Does not really do much, but looks the part. I remember when Al first did some doors on his DC2 like this around 6 years ago. The next season half the field had copied him.
He stuffed up again. In such a hurry to show us his lightweight door brackets, he forgot that he still has to slide the plastic windows in. I love it when the boss cocks up.
Just some post approval would be great thanks! I think NZ-DB8R is going to help me out with that as well. I've been quite busy so it stood in the way of me getting content up earlier.
Using the democratic system we had a vote. Dash or no dash. Dash won 4-0. Our thoughts were that the EF has a particularly ugly underdash panel, and what is a saloon car with no dash.
We also decided to incorporate a window demist system using the original outlets, and a driver fresh air system using part of the original vent system on the dash. Fogging is a major problem when racing in the wet due to the floor pan of most cars being full of holes and a large build up of heat from the engine and exhaust.
We have gone to a lot of trouble to fully seal the floor, and will be insulating the front bulkhead and the exhaust tunnel with a tricky new gold foil from our mate Mop in the USA in an effort to partially reduce the in car temperature.
Al went away and sketched everything up so we could all see how it could work. As per usual he came up with some very original ideas that are simple and should really do the job while still keeping the weight down.
The majority of the dash was going to be redundant so everthing was removed and the main dash moulding was gutted from the back.
Then back in for a test fit. It's all held in with 3 bolts for quick removal.
We decided the ends needed some more trimming which meant cutting back the metal mounts underneath. We need to get this right as the front rollcage legs will go down the A pillar and over the dash mounts. You only get one chance at cutting the dash for clearance.
In some areas we will concede some weight for the right look. It's not all function over form! What is 2kg for a nice looking dash? Shit, don't let Al hear that.
We are going to run minimal in the gauge department. These will be mounted from the custom steering column which we will build to accommodate the driver set back. More on that later.
Here is an idea of what we are after up front, the New Zealand V8ST prototype.
More weight reduction. Next to get the chop is the rear hatch. Just about every removable panel in the Shuttle is noticeably heavier than a Civic or Integra. Man is the OEM hatch heavy.
Plus some surplus metal removed from the roof section where the hatch bolts on. All Hondas are overkill here.
This what we like to see at the end of the night, a pile of scrap on the floor.
Still more.
I arrive just after 1.00pm and Al had just arrived. Originally the plan was to get the shell fully stripped and on the rotisery, then blast the underside clean. It was covered in a mix of tar base underseal and our old favourite Honda seam sealer. Not sure why Al changed his mind, but he had decided that he was going to do it all with the mbx, and that once he started he wasn't going to stop until it was done. He got me to cover everything in the workshop we couldn't move outside and he was into it. After an hour he looked like a coalminer but he stuck at it for just under 5 hours. I kept the floor swept as best I could and kept the liquid refreshment up. I think he stopped 3 times to change the head on the mbx.
What a mission.
You don't often see Al wearing gloves but the mbx gets really cold due to the huge amount of air going through it and venting out.
About 15 minutes in:
Two hours in:
Just under 5 hours and Al was completely poked! It came up as good as any media blast, plus all the seam seal was gone as well. I felt quite bad just pushing the broom as the old bugger just kept on at it, but there was no way he was stopping till it was done!
We have decided to leave the OEM glass in the rear side and rear hatch as the new MSNZ regulations have increased the minimum thickness of replacement rear plastic windows. This is up to around 5mm which negates any real weight saving. It's a reasonably big job removing and replacing the rear hatch glass as it is a compound curved screen which is not the easiest to do cold. Maybe later!
Al stuffed up when he put in the supports for the inside openers so we are wondering what he is going to do. Probably will come down one night and fix up his stuff up and not tell us.
Window wise we are going for an OEM look, so no visible ugly screws in the window frames here. It's all going to be done down below where you can't see it.
Rear quarter windows turned out to be a lot more difficult than expected. Really were not worth the hassle. After drilling out the pillar retaining screws, we found the rubber moldings were bonded to the glass and we had to be creative and make our own. Wasted almost a day on these.
With the plastic in the windows, we are basically done unless someone wants to get keen and drill some weight from the door hinges. Volunteers for a couple of hours on the drill press?!
We were right. Came in one morning and found that Al had been back at night fitting the front plastic in, and don't think he removed his support brackets.
Another group vote. With the hatch being so unaerodynamic, we have to make every effort to keep extra drag down so we decided there will be no driver's window vents. The fresh air can come in via the dash from a high pressure area at the front.
Genuine JDM EF2 kshuttle:
I see a big second hand rear wing arrived today. Definitely not going to be a bolt on to the Shuttle. What's he got planned now? Found this is in Al's photo file!
Looks like we might be fabricating some mounts soon:
New rims have been ordered from James at Rota. New Titan in 17x8". This style was released in December 2012. Hope they will fit with the 215 17 Hankook slicks!
Rota are the official rim supplier to Honda Cup and one of the few Companies that make affordable 16x8" and 17x8" Honda race rims. Make sure you support the companies that support Honda Cup NZ. Like Rota Wheels on Facebook.
Another really trick part arrived by courier today from another of the Honda Cup Series supporters. A new super small, super lightweight Shorai race battery. Check out the photo to see how small the 21 amp hour battery is. We have tested two of these in Honda race cars for the last 6 months and there have been zero issues. It's still hard to believe something this small can crank a high compression cold race engine.
Honda Cup NZ racers can get these from Honda Cup and others should contact Shorai.
We can't run traction bars under the NZ Honda Cup rules, so we have to use the standard front cross member. Access to customs radiators here is very limited, so we decided to start with a full width aftermarket alloy CRX one and modify it to fit. We prefer to run a full width radiator and no fan. So far on all our cars there have been no issues other than over cooling on very cold days.
Shaun at Redline Performance Auckland helped us out with a sample of a new line they had just landed:
We actually ended up cutting off the intake and outlet because they were on the wrong ends, and all the fan mounts and lugs because we were not going to use any of them. All the mounts lined up spot on and overall quite a well made product. Very tight fit so we will have to ease it a little or we will have problems. Installed to check fitment, then out for more mods and 2 new dash 16 fittings.
Starting the trimming:
Tight fit!
We will need to notch the front crossmember to make room for the fitting in on the bottom left.
Al has been working on the rear crossmember. The Shuttle (Wagovan) is sold in 4WD and 2WD formats, but all have the 4WD rear bolt in crossmember. The problem is as soon as you dump the car the rear crossmember rubs on the ground. Great if you live in Tokyo and run 6 degrees of negative camber on your Sunday drive, but not compliant with NZ Motorsport rules.
The solution? Build a jig and make up a tubular replacement with the inner pickup points being the lowest part. This needs to be completed and bolted in before we start the cage to ensure we don't get any chassis movement while welding and end up with a 3 legged dog.
Working on the rear crossmember jig with the original piece in the background:
No drawings this time, it's all stored in Al's head.
Our good friend David Black at Racetech had finished our new race seat and sent it to us. Racetech are supporters of the K Shuttle and Honda Cup NZ.
Based in Wellington, New Zealand, Racetech operates on a global basis. They are world-renowned for their Racetech raceseats. Their composite and carbon fibre race seats are fitted to thousands of race cars – touring cars, rally cars, drift, drag and speedway cars – all over the world, as well as many race boats and other sport seat applications.
The design, testing, manufacture and sale of their comprehensive range of Racetech race seats forms the heart of their business and they also distribute and sell numerous other top class race products.
Racetech has worked, and continue to work with the Federation Internationale De L’Automobile (FIA) on numerous development and testing projects, and their team is regularly consulted by national motorsport organisations regarding appropriate technical standards and improved safety within racecars. As an example of this in 2003 managing director, David Black, was invited by the FIA Institute to assist in developing the new 8862-2009 seat standard. This standard founded many of its regulations on earlier work done in collaboration with Dodge and the Viper project.
You’ll find Racetech personnel won’t hesitate to ‘tell it like it is’ and provide concise facts about any of our products. Racetech helps set the safety standards, then delivers the right products. Right here in NZ.
We chose the standard with a tall fitment so "one seat fits all". Yes, we checked. Al fits!
Our first big spend item but its worth it.
About where its going to be, but closer to the centre. We will probably have to mount it on adjustable runners as it won't be the same driver each race meet... sitting in the back seat!
Seat location is the last thing we need to sort before we start on the cage. The seat determines the position of the main hoop. You can see how much shorter the Shuttle doors are than an EF Civic hatch or and EF CRX.
Pedal box courtesy of Tristan. Pedals will be mounted on a flat plate that will raise them approximately 40mm.
Citroen power steer pump that will be mounted inside the car. Not quite sure of location yet and still have to fabricate mounting brackets as the wrecker had dumped the shell.
There are plenty of cheap 15x8 wheel options out there and Hankook makes a 225/45-15 race tire. A lot less weight and rotational mass.
If you guys get down to needing fuel injectors and/or pump, let me know.
All shall be revealed
****I didn't know this thanks for the info :eagerness:.... Now I got some ammo for people hating on my rota's saying I should've got the real Hayashi type cr wheels insted of crap weak Rota's, I love my Shatokan's!
We want 5 stud rear hubs and rears discs so it is a bit of build as you go. We did a search on Google but everything we found looked a bit farm yard.
We had to use the original rear RTAs so we removed and stripped these.
Stub axles were a bitch to get out with the star bolt heads.
All cleaned, blasted and epoxied ready to go.
Next stage was to fit the RTA bushes. Al likes the PCI spherical ones and Brian from PCI has just finished the first run of version #3 of these, so he sent over a set for testing. The offset centre pin really helps to dial out rear toe on roll which makes a big difference to the balance of the chassis mid corner.
Real easy fitment – just bolt up with 2 bolts.
And bolted up to the chassis. We have mounted these in the upper of the two adjustable positions.
The Kiwi Special Projects branding is a joint venture between Brian of PCI and Jeff of Special Projects. They both work out of the same building with Brian doing the design work and Jeff some of the testing and marketing.
We are also using spherical adjustable toe links from Hardrace. These are a new model for the EF which are slightly longer than the eg/dc/ek versions
Al has been involved with Hardrace for over 6 years and has tested a number of their Honda products for them. Hardrace are also supporting the Kshuttle project and anyone interested in either of the Hardrace street or race range should talk with Al.
Rear spherical toe link again:
Rear hardrace spherical adjustable camber link:
We have a set of ITR RTAs which we are going to strip. We are hopeful that we can use the bolt on axles to fit our 98 spec ITR rear hubs.
The front setup is all fairly straight forward. Honda Cup rules say we can't run a front traction bar, so it's the OEM front crossmember
The front tension struts (correct terminology for traction bars) are doing a lot of work on the EF, and it is one of the most important areas to look at is where the tension strut attaches to the front crossmember. All the accelerating and braking loads are fed in here.
One of Al's mates in USA runs a boutique suspension fabrication shop. He is an ultra perfectionist and manufactures parts for many of the outlaw drag cars.
His name is Chris, and he trades as Kingpin Machine. He's old school and knowns his stuff.
Al reckons he makes the best EF front bearing kit hands down, and this is what he is using. A well though out kit that has been copied by a few but none are as good. Chris uses the best bearings he can source and matches the bearing loading to the usage.
The kit:
The bearing and retainer close up:
Drill the crossmember:
Bolt it up:
Done.
On the front we are also running a new EF adjustable top arm with sphericals. Sorry, can't mention any brands here. Legal issues pending!!!
The arms have been cleaned up with all casting marks removed and painted.
Anyone pick that the bottom arm is on the wrong side?
We are modifying the OEM bottom arms with inner sphericals. The ones fitted are just for test fitting. We still have to 2 pack the whole car, so everything is going to have to be removed again prior to painting and then refitted.
Jeff from Special Projects is friends with Brian at Hasport so between them they got a set of CRX/K20 conversion mounts with race bushes sorted and sent them down. Thanks guys.
We had a mock up to see how they fitted as the RHD chassis is a little different from the USA LHD drive, particularly the steering rack mounts possibly being an issue.
Bolts are just for alignment and the mount needs to be welded in.
The other side. We are going to have to modify the rear mount bracket so we can get clearance on the header but nothing major.
Al said he will remove the Hasport mounting plate, reinforce the rear crossmember and weld two tags to carry the mount direct to the crossmember. Clearance between the rack and header is going to be tight.
Current plans for the steering is to refit the OEM power steer rack, which we have stripped and rebuilt. The Honda power steer pump and pipes have been ditched and Al wants to try an electric power steer pump from a small Euro hatch. The pump is going to be mounted in the rear of the ca . He is also going to modify the rack to speed up the slow steering.
With the driver set back so far we are going to need a custom steering column as well, but need to get the seat fitted and the roll cage dash bar in so we can see how its all going to fit.
These sorts of things happen when you build race cars, particularly for the first time. Nothing that difficult – its just takes time!
Al is going to have to do all this himself as he can do it in his head and design as he goes. I can see a few late nights cutting, folding and welding coming up...
Seat location and mounting has to be fully sorted before we start the cage as we need to ensure we have helmet clearance on the main hoop, and that the sight line out the front is ok for various height drivers.
Marking out:
Hole cut:
Patch tacked in. Enough for tonight, tomorrow's another day.
Photos courtesy of Al's Camera as he was the only one working:
Laugh for today... Big Al in CA prepping car for the 25 hour. Kiwi joke...
Checking the stock ones on my shuttle it's damn tight. Is it likely to hit thus needing a little manipulation ?
A mate of mine putting a K into a EF CRX RHD here has had no end of issues with the hasport kit not fitting the RHD chassis.
D series chassis too not B so even less problems !!
Brake master cylinder to 1" OEM was a big problem against the intake so he's gone for servo delete with twin cylinders and bias bar.
I guess you'll be having the same sort of setup ?
I know we're getting delayed updates. Haven't checked k20a in a while