The fogs came from a JDM CR-X Si Exclusive. The one with the god awful tan interior which JDM whores love so much.
I can keep an eye out for you, but they are rarer than SiR fogs normally.
Going rate is about £100/€140/$200 upwards. :?
wow ?! not planning on spending that much on foglights :? I still have my sedan to work on too, the wagon is my daily drive.
but if you find some yellow fogs, just let me know the price and I'll think about it.
Well.
I got shipped off to the mid east for work again which took a bite out of my time.
I was also waiting for quite a lot of parts to arrive to finish the build.
the head apparently aint seen much action. Stripped the head down and cleaned it all. Was going to do the seals but they are already pretty much new so have kept the seal kit for later.
The sump on the engine is also looking like it's been in a fight so that'll be chucked too.
Made a start Friday with the head studs but got side tracked to go fetch a car which I couldn't pass on due to the money.
BMW compact with suspected HG failure (turns out it's fine so a bargin)just trying to sort my sister out with a new motor. However might have to sell it cos I think a BMW might get wrecked where she parks...
All bolted up now thanks to the weekend.
The Camshaft and ADJ camgear both didn't come with a key. On the SOHC it seems the key is part of the OEM cam gear.
Thanks to a spare set of B16 cams I found a key.
But need one for the crank pulley still. Will probably come from the old engine I guess...
Just needing some bits and bobs:
Flywheel resurface
Hacking OBD0 dizzy to fit the head
Sump with oil return fitted (cos it's near impossible to get the sump off when in the car due to 4WD)
Also need to find a woodruff key.
It needs to be broken in so will run about 500miles NA.
Going to run the engine on OBD0 with no vtec for now, just adding a touch of fuel to account for the bigger cams than stock. Still running 9:1 which is stock for the engine which came out of the shuttle anyway.
Aint decided if I'll go for Hondata, Crome or BRE.
My heart says BRE...
My sense says Hondata...
Lots more to come.
In the off time I've also been sprucing the MR5's. But they are maybe 40% done, so will take pics when finished. I figure this is the first stage to make them pretty. I'll go crazy and make them uber like new later on
But making the package work is more important for now...
It's taking too long :roll:
I've done a few things since but still not got the engine in the car...
I bought a Blurr SS Auto manifold the other day for a B series.
Been hacking away at it and have made it fit the D series block.
The ports are much bigger but I guess that can help on occassion if you go by the exhaust theory.
The turbo has the flange 90degrees out. I was thinking of chopping the flange off the manifold and rotating it, OR buying two more T3 flanges and making an adapter for it.
Undecided, suggestions most welcome.
Also, what do you guys think about port matching the head to the exhaust gasket?
The stock ports are pretty small and the intake side has already been ported.
Of course this should have been thought about when the head was off the block. But with caution it could still be done now.
Current issue is that the manifold hits the bonnet when closed.
You can see it sticks up quite a bit.
Few choices:
1) Cut the 3rd runner off, remove about 8mm from each side and reweld it. Difficult due to other runners in the way.
2) Try to lower the engine and gearbox approx 10mm in the bay. I can achieve this fairly easily, but it'll move the position of the rearward shaft too. OK, it's got a Uni joint, but will it like being out of true constantly ?
3) Use this manifold as a test fit (it was cheap) and get another one made up to fit perfectly.
My issue with option 3 is that I dunno if this turbo will work and give me the power I want. The D is going to be more laggy than a B. The fairly basic calcs I've done so far suggest this turbo will max out about 300hp. Again, I'd welcome any advice on this one. It's a .61/.47A/R Garrett turbo. I have a part number but cannot find any info from google.
More work on the manifold today. I chopped the flange off and rotated it. Cock up the first time as I left the waste gate port on and it fouled the bolt holes so then had to remove that.
Good news is that flange is unlikely to fall off any time soon :twisted:
Ugly but effective
Rigged up to test the waste gate.
Does anyone know if this is an OK way to test it?
I hooked up my air supply to the WG via a boost guage to see at what point the WG opens.
Unfortunately and perhaps unsurprisingly considering it's a turbo from a diesel, the port doesn't open till 22psi approx !!
erm...
OK, so I know on some actuators you can rotate the bar to raise or lower the opening presure but generally those bars have a thread and a lock nbut. This has neither.
So new actuator might be needed.
Can you rip one open, mod it and stick it back together again? :?
Some pics of the turbo internals:
The specs are:
Compressor housing
inlet: 53.7 / 60 mm ( ID / OD )
Outlet : 42mm (ID)
A/R 61
Compressor wheel: 42 / 59.4 mm (inducer / exducer)
Trim = ( 1764 / 3528.36 ) * 100 = 50 trim
Turbine Housing :
Inlet: T3
Outlet: 52.4 mm (OD)
A/R 47
Turbine wheel : 42.4 / 49.4mm (Exducer / Inducer)
Trim = ( 1797.76 / 2440.36 ) * 100 = 73 trim
Looking at comparable compressor maps it's not perfect but should do quite well.
But that's not exactly an exact science is it ?!?
Bad karma on me for not being on for a damn long time.
Bascially life had gone to shit
Curent state of play:
I fitted the engine and for some fucked up reason it didn't take the oil into the engine.
Thus it utterly fscked it up.
I'm talking busted head, busted cam, damage to pistons and bearings shot to hell.
All for 5 mins worth of running time.
Bad day at black rock.
Currently being rebuilt by a guy in the UK with a seriously good track record in Honda engines.
He made 280BHP out of a DOHC D16 engine back in 2004, and aint looked back since.
I've taken the parts from that engine and am rebuilding the Laskey.
New spec, will be with a GT2871RS turbo, bascially what EPIC were running in their 4g, but with a sleeved block and forged internals.
Will be running Hondata.
Welcome to 2009. Finaly the bitch wil run this year
Curently we are unsure.
The engine has been ripped down, there is oil in it but the pump is almost dry.
The current feeling is that the pump didn't actually pick up any oil :shock:
The oil light in the cluster isn't working....
Yeah....
:roll:
So, from now on. Any build we do will be packing the pump with grease/vasaline. Just in case.
Suffice to sy, I'm going to be running a few oil pressure guages on it this time round
One for engine, one for turbo.
Comments
wow ?! not planning on spending that much on foglights :? I still have my sedan to work on too, the wagon is my daily drive.
but if you find some yellow fogs, just let me know the price and I'll think about it.
I think no :P
Nose job looks good, those fogs belong right there!! [/quote]
I agree looks real good 8)
Well.
I got shipped off to the mid east for work again which took a bite out of my time.
I was also waiting for quite a lot of parts to arrive to finish the build.
the head apparently aint seen much action. Stripped the head down and cleaned it all. Was going to do the seals but they are already pretty much new so have kept the seal kit for later.
The sump on the engine is also looking like it's been in a fight so that'll be chucked too.
Made a start Friday with the head studs but got side tracked to go fetch a car which I couldn't pass on due to the money.
BMW compact with suspected HG failure (turns out it's fine so a bargin)just trying to sort my sister out with a new motor. However might have to sell it cos I think a BMW might get wrecked where she parks...
All bolted up now thanks to the weekend.
The Camshaft and ADJ camgear both didn't come with a key. On the SOHC it seems the key is part of the OEM cam gear.
Thanks to a spare set of B16 cams I found a key.
But need one for the crank pulley still. Will probably come from the old engine I guess...
Just needing some bits and bobs:
Flywheel resurface
Hacking OBD0 dizzy to fit the head
Sump with oil return fitted (cos it's near impossible to get the sump off when in the car due to 4WD)
Also need to find a woodruff key.
It needs to be broken in so will run about 500miles NA.
Going to run the engine on OBD0 with no vtec for now, just adding a touch of fuel to account for the bigger cams than stock. Still running 9:1 which is stock for the engine which came out of the shuttle anyway.
Aint decided if I'll go for Hondata, Crome or BRE.
My heart says BRE...
My sense says Hondata...
Lots more to come.
In the off time I've also been sprucing the MR5's. But they are maybe 40% done, so will take pics when finished. I figure this is the first stage to make them pretty. I'll go crazy and make them uber like new later on
But making the package work is more important for now...
It's taking too long :roll:
hondata
hondata
I've done a few things since but still not got the engine in the car...
I bought a Blurr SS Auto manifold the other day for a B series.
Been hacking away at it and have made it fit the D series block.
The ports are much bigger but I guess that can help on occassion if you go by the exhaust theory.
The turbo has the flange 90degrees out. I was thinking of chopping the flange off the manifold and rotating it, OR buying two more T3 flanges and making an adapter for it.
Undecided, suggestions most welcome.
Also, what do you guys think about port matching the head to the exhaust gasket?
The stock ports are pretty small and the intake side has already been ported.
Of course this should have been thought about when the head was off the block. But with caution it could still be done now.
Current issue is that the manifold hits the bonnet when closed.
You can see it sticks up quite a bit.
Few choices:
1) Cut the 3rd runner off, remove about 8mm from each side and reweld it. Difficult due to other runners in the way.
2) Try to lower the engine and gearbox approx 10mm in the bay. I can achieve this fairly easily, but it'll move the position of the rearward shaft too. OK, it's got a Uni joint, but will it like being out of true constantly ?
3) Use this manifold as a test fit (it was cheap) and get another one made up to fit perfectly.
My issue with option 3 is that I dunno if this turbo will work and give me the power I want. The D is going to be more laggy than a B. The fairly basic calcs I've done so far suggest this turbo will max out about 300hp. Again, I'd welcome any advice on this one. It's a .61/.47A/R Garrett turbo. I have a part number but cannot find any info from google.
More work on the manifold today. I chopped the flange off and rotated it. Cock up the first time as I left the waste gate port on and it fouled the bolt holes so then had to remove that.
Good news is that flange is unlikely to fall off any time soon :twisted:
Ugly but effective
Rigged up to test the waste gate.
Does anyone know if this is an OK way to test it?
I hooked up my air supply to the WG via a boost guage to see at what point the WG opens.
Unfortunately and perhaps unsurprisingly considering it's a turbo from a diesel, the port doesn't open till 22psi approx !!
erm...
OK, so I know on some actuators you can rotate the bar to raise or lower the opening presure but generally those bars have a thread and a lock nbut. This has neither.
So new actuator might be needed.
Can you rip one open, mod it and stick it back together again? :?
Some pics of the turbo internals:
The specs are:
Compressor housing
inlet: 53.7 / 60 mm ( ID / OD )
Outlet : 42mm (ID)
A/R 61
Compressor wheel: 42 / 59.4 mm (inducer / exducer)
Trim = ( 1764 / 3528.36 ) * 100 = 50 trim
Turbine Housing :
Inlet: T3
Outlet: 52.4 mm (OD)
A/R 47
Turbine wheel : 42.4 / 49.4mm (Exducer / Inducer)
Trim = ( 1797.76 / 2440.36 ) * 100 = 73 trim
Looking at comparable compressor maps it's not perfect but should do quite well.
But that's not exactly an exact science is it ?!?
Bascially life had gone to shit
Curent state of play:
I fitted the engine and for some fucked up reason it didn't take the oil into the engine.
Thus it utterly fscked it up.
I'm talking busted head, busted cam, damage to pistons and bearings shot to hell.
All for 5 mins worth of running time.
Bad day at black rock.
Currently being rebuilt by a guy in the UK with a seriously good track record in Honda engines.
He made 280BHP out of a DOHC D16 engine back in 2004, and aint looked back since.
I've taken the parts from that engine and am rebuilding the Laskey.
New spec, will be with a GT2871RS turbo, bascially what EPIC were running in their 4g, but with a sleeved block and forged internals.
Will be running Hondata.
Welcome to 2009. Finaly the bitch wil run this year
The engine has been ripped down, there is oil in it but the pump is almost dry.
The current feeling is that the pump didn't actually pick up any oil :shock:
The oil light in the cluster isn't working....
Yeah....
:roll:
So, from now on. Any build we do will be packing the pump with grease/vasaline. Just in case.
Suffice to sy, I'm going to be running a few oil pressure guages on it this time round
One for engine, one for turbo.