Upgrading brake pads,rotors,etc. what setup is best for track?

I have a 90 civic wagon dx with a b18b1 motor, stock suspension with skunk2 springs.
I was planning on going to a track day not drag, and a lot of people told me to upgrade brakes, brake pads, and my other suspension.. for right now i only have skunk 2 springs. I was wondering what should i run and get for my wagon. suspension upgrade? any suggestion?

Comments

  • 90 RT4WD (Cody)90 RT4WD (Cody) Senior Wagonist
    The most effective/Cheap upgrade that I have done is a rear sway bar...

    What I'm running:

    -90'-93' Integra 4 Door rear sway bar (22mm) + links $26 at pick and pull

    -Godspeed rear lower control arms $74.99 ebay

    Other wagonist have done this, you can search it too:encouragement:
  • nice... thanks how about rotors, brake pads, and calipers? any upgrades for that
  • Cheap blanks are all you need for the rotors - I like these from TireRack as they are good quality and have the veins and hats coated > Centric Plain 120 Series Rotors

    Your first time out, you probably won't be deep into the corners and hard on the brakes, but I would still recommend getting a good pad and flushing the brake fluid.

    Any decent DOT3 or DOT4 fluid should be fine. Everything is in the PAD you get! I would at least recommend a hybrid pad (Hawk HP+, EBC Yellow, etc). I'd strongly recommend a dedicated pad like a Hawk DTC60 or CarboTech AX6, along with a dedicated rotor.
  • cool thanks. what are you running for your suspension wise? lca,strut bars, springs, shocks?
  • 90 RT4WD (Cody)90 RT4WD (Cody) Senior Wagonist
    I think strut bars are a good idea, I mean they cant hurt..right? and they are cheep.

    As far as suspension There is tons of treads on different setups, I like my H&R's. there is a full write up of my setup on my build,
    otherwise search it up!
  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    for pads, you can keep the stock caliper and rotors but use project mu H+ pads. trust me, you wont be disappointed!
  • thanks guys
  • cool thanks. what are you running for your suspension wise? lca,strut bars, springs, shocks?

    LCAs and STBs are cosmetic only, save the rear STB...you'd probably see a little benefit there since it's just a big box back there with no cross bracing.

    I currently have 400# springs front and rear that are overpowering a set of KYB Excel-Gs, but I think the spring rate is about there for the wagon being mostly a DD.

    Have these on their way to Koni right now to be shortened and rebuilt for the wagon >

    747.jpg

    I have Progress' Time Attack adjustable coil-overs on my race-prepped CRX that I'm really happy with. It's a little too much for the street in the CRX, though @ under 2000lbs and 450# front - 650# rear springs.
  • what do you mean by 450#front - 650# rear springs?
  • That's the spring rate.

    # = pound per inch or lb/in

    International companies will use kilogram per millimeter or kg/mm
  • oh thanks, im such a noob.. lol so you could tell the shop to do those setups? or did you do it by yourself?
  • Progress' kit is one they developed on HAsport's K20A CRX. The spring rates they had were in line with spring rates I wanted, so it was an easy choice.

    The 400/400 springs I have on the wagon were pieced together from junkyard finds. Both pairs are Skunk2. One pair was found on a 4th Gen Prelude and was from when Skunk2 was still Skunkworks and the other pair came off a Civic hatch. The Skunkworks pair is an 8" coil, I believe and the Skunk2 pair are 7". Both are 2.5"ID springs, pretty standard.

    The Konis are the ones Neuspeed sells for their race kits, 5 heights instead of the standard 3 and shortened a touch. They'll still need to be a little shorter to fit on the back of the wagon, though.

    Having a stronger spring rate in the rear makes the back end a little more live, but it also makes it quite a tight ride on the street. Would not recommend it for a car that will see a lot of driving time on regular roads.
  • carlos ecarlos e New Wagonist
    Very interesting.I'm assuming you have to disable your whole awd for you're rear to use interchageable parts.I look into this and found this site .

    http://ef-honda.com/ben/EFhybridsus.php
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    DA front knuckles with calipers and rotors. You will need to run 15s. HP+ hawk pads (love mine) new brake fluid, and inspect the rear drum breaks possibly turn the drums and/or scuff the shoes up with some emery cloth or at very least adjust them you would be amazed how well your wagon will stop with properly adjusted rear brakes.
  • carlos e wrote: »
    Very interesting.I'm assuming you have to disable your whole awd for you're rear to use interchageable parts.I look into this and found this site .

    http://ef-honda.com/ben/EFhybridsus.php

    I'm not following you? I didn't have to disable the RT4WD. Shocks are shocks. The rears on the wagon are just a shorter shock than what came on any of the other EF, EG, or EK chassis (including the other chassis that relate to the three mentioned).
  • turbo_teg wrote: »
    DA front knuckles with calipers and rotors. You will need to run 15s. HP+ hawk pads (love mine) new brake fluid, and inspect the rear drum breaks possibly turn the drums and/or scuff the shoes up with some emery cloth or at very least adjust them you would be amazed how well your wagon will stop with properly adjusted rear brakes.

    My stock RT4WD wheels clear the DA brakes on my car.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    yes, lots of 14"s will clear DA (90-93teg) brakes. teg comes stock with 14's. it's all about the offset. EX: CRX Sawblades will not fit over teg brakes,

    I love my hawk HP+ pads, a step up from my Axxis Ults. Braided lines are pretty cheap upgrade over soft OEM as well.

    +1 for using a dedicated track pad at the track. they take like 20 minutes to change so why not.
Sign In or Register to comment.