1991 Wagon Build

Picked up this baby a while back reading 401,000 on the odometer. Minor surface rust in the door jams, and quarter panels are okay, but the rockers are amazing. I plan to restore this car both interior and exterior, and just keep it with a N/A with a b20, and minor engine mods for now. My main focus over the winter is primarily cosmetic stuff. Considering the paint was done horribly, side moldings were removed and clip holes filled in:apologetic: I would like to buy some coil overs eventually and redo all the bushings, and ball joints, etc because the car is at 401,000kms.

To Do List:

Engine:
-Stock B20B Purchased one from the JDM store
  • Tune Up(NGK G-power plugs, Ignition wires, Oil Filter,Gates timing belt and water pump, and any gaskets that look bad)
-Distributor OBD-1 Distributor
-ECU I have P61, from a 92-93 GSR integra. I am looking to get a virgin LS ECU, better map for my build...
-Alternator OBD-1 Alternator
-Flywheel B20B Stock flywheel
-Transmission Reusing the cable B16a Transmission
-
Starter I kept the one of the B16a(Should of kept more parts)
-Wiring harness(Purchased from Rywire.com)

Exterior
-Find Side moldings Purchase side protectors off a civic wagon member, and F fender ones from a local wagon enthusiast, and R Fender ones from Honda.
-Repaint body white(and the trims back to their original colors.
-Repaint engine bay(Painting in white. Currently prepping the bay for paint)
-Fix front windshield has a large crack along passenger windshield.
-Fix Passenger Mirror(It is all cracked)
-Fix driver side rear door(The handle is broken, and the door is lock)
-Fix surface rust in door jams
-Fix surface rust along top of the window trim
-Top front window weather stripping is missing... Plus the wind shield has a nice crack across passenger side
-Quarters panels are not rusted through but the inside lip part is starting to fall apart if you know what I mean. May need to do the QP's sometime in the near future.
-Coil Overs(Purchased HSD's)
-Install a sunroof maybe!

Interior
-Clean Clean Clean(Seats, carpet, everything it is honestly really disgusting inside)
-Fix tears in the seats
-Get a new stereo and deck
-Find missing center console pieces Bought one off 89 automatic AWD civic. Will require some modding to fit the shift boot housing
-New steering wheel
-Rewire the hack job

I know I am for sure missing many things I want to do to the car. I will update this list as I go and I find new things along the the way.

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Went out and bought myself a B20B head and block, and 2 CSP drive shafts, and the half shaft.
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Also, bought a gravity feed spray gun kit, and a sander. I plan to repaint my engine bay soon. It is currently painted black right now. I was thinking of painting it white considering I plan on repainting the whole car white.
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Comments

  • Bought a motor master engine stand. It works quite well.
    481.jpg

    Was nice to see my Father is kinda getting into this build with me. After I set up my stand I got him to give me a hand. We bolted the faceplate of the engine stand onto the engine first. Than we lifted the engine and slid the face plate onto the engine stand. I had to buy two 5" bolts from home depot, and I used 2 transmission bolts, and threaded them into the top. I could not find any other holes that would not thread on the top of the transmission side where I mounted it.

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    When I was bringing my engine home with my dad in his truck!
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  • Nice write up. You should take some pics of your wagon and post them
  • TerminusVoxTerminusVox Senior Wagonist
    Looks like some big plans! I'm in to see more.
  • So I uploaded some pics of the day when I brought the car home.
    As you can see it looks like someone painted a Movember mustache I thought it was pretty funny! I was unsure about the rising sun that was painted there at one time. You can see its slightly still visible, from the horrible spray can job that was done.
    There is a nice crack in the windshield along the the passenger windshield as well! I defiantly want to have the windshield change one day. I may or may not do it myself I know a place I can maybe get a good deal on it once I get the car on the road.
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    I will take more pictures this Friday once I uptarp my car. It has been snowing really hard down here in near Toronto. I have the whole front end off as well supported by jack stands.

    You can see how the crack goes:( It does not go through the whole window though. Also you can see where there is no top window trim molding... This defiantly can not be good for when it rains. You can see the surface rust starting. Something I want to fix asap. I may just get the whole window replaced at this time too.
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  • Went out and bought a Gates timing belt kit plan on changing it tomorrow on my day off.
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    I saw these purple LED windshield fluid sprayers, they were cheap so I bought them lol. One of the little sprayers is missing on my hood anyways and there is a hole there.
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    I also bought some moldings off a fellow civicwagon member! Thanks JDMEF9:smug:
  • Pick up some more parts, and got my timing belt and water pump installed. Also bought some new spark plugs, and installed them today.

    List of parts I bought.
    -B20B Flywheel
    -OBD-1 Dizzy
    -OBD-1 Alternator
    -Fender side protectors
    -Corner lights
    -Automatic RT centre console will require some modding to support my shift boot housing

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    Took some more pics of the interior, and an example of how the door jams are.
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    So I am still in the progress of collecting more parts to complete my engine swap. All I pretty much need now is a OBD-1 wiring harness. I also forgot about the little key that holds the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft. I searched high and low for that little bugger after it fell out. The timing belt swap ended up taking me 3 days to complete... I met another local wagon enthusiast, who I bought some of the wagon parts off. The previous owner of his wagon had a sunroof installed in 1992. I really like the idea of a sunroof, and I want to look into getting one done. Just a pop off one, but I hear they usually leak after a while. He told me his does not leak though which is amazing since it was installed back in 1992 for only $125 including parts and labour!
  • My wiring harness arrived from Rywire. This thing literally almost took a month to arrive. Only complaint about Rywire was the shipping time. Other than that the wiring harness was neatly done, all nicely tucked and everything labeled:)
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    I believe I have everything I need now to do my B20B swap. First week of good weather I will be painting my engine bay than dropping in my motor. I have all the tools to do the job I just need the paint. I have repainted rims before and they came out pretty good for my first time I did that with spray cans. I used primer, a base coat, and clear coat. I will be doing my engine bay and car with a air powered gravity feed gun though. I am still unsure on what color to paint my engine bay. It is currently black. I was thinking about painting my car white, but honestly I have been seeing a lot of other custom paint colors, and I may give something else a try. Maybe paint a fender see how it turns out once I pick a color.

    Also I have collected all the side protectors pieces for front and back fenders and doors. Now I just have to figure out how to install them. I am also going to open up and b16a transmission and try to replace the bearing making the winding noise when the clutch is engaged. I want to get this done before the good weather comes. So I just focus on restoring the body.
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    Since I have been gone I did a minor rebuild on my transmission. By replacing all the bad bearings and oil seals. I also found the bearing causing the winding noise which initially got me to tear the thing apart. I cleaned all the internals, lubed it bad up, greased the shift rod shaft and put it all bad together. 498.jpg499.jpg
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    When buying the clutch release bearing I decided to go with an OE clutch release bearing made by NSK. The price difference was quite a bit, the rest of the parts I just purchased through honda.
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    Now back to focusing on restoring my wagon... My front rotors were really bad so I bought some brembo front rotors from autopartsway.ca. 501.jpg

    The weather is getting better so my next step is to prep my engine bay for paint. I will be painting it white not sure if I want to do a flashy white or just a flat colored white?

    I am having a really have time deciding on which rims and suspension set up I would like to go with. The money is there it's just I do not know if I was to go with coils or a spring/shock setup. I want this to be a daily driver and I just want to get rid of the wheel gap I do not want to go to low. Any suggestions?
  • should be fun to watch this one, good luck! Keep up the hard work!
  • RoRoRoRo Wagonist
    nice progress,

    just a little tip that sander is going to suck
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    RoRo wrote: »
    nice progress,

    just a little tip that sander is going to suck

    Yeah, I was thinking about returning this one. Which sander do you suggest I should get?
  • 90shuttle90shuttle Senior Wagonist
    Get pneumatic tools. They're small and easy to get into cracks and crevices.
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    So I bought the rest of everything I need to paint my engine bay. I went to the local automotive store and bought the high quality paints.
    What I bought was
    -2 cans of gray primer
    -1 pint of flat white premixed paint
    -Clear coat
    -Hardener and reducer
    -Paint mask
    -Sand paper/sand block& shop towels
    -DeWaxer and degreaser
    -And free mixing cups:smug:(Probably everybody gets them but they show the measurements)
    Total cost of $160.

    I manage to get a 36 pc spray gun kit a while back with two spray guns in it. The kit was on sale for half price for $75. This is not a top quality kit, but it should do the job for me. Hopefully this turns out well.

    Today I blew all the rocks and lose dirt and other crap stuck in the engine bay out with the compressor. Than degreased and cleaned up the engine bay.

    The front cross member(Not sure if that is exactly what it is called) Was grinded and cut up from the previous owner trying to make their turbo set up fit I assume. So I tried to clean it up a bit and unbend it, but there is really was not much I could do. I most likely will just replace it one day.
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    So I think I have decided on the suspension I want to go with which is Progress coilovers series 2. They have a really good review for them and a 1 year warranty. They allow a 1-3" drop both in the back and front. This should give me the height I am looking for. I want this car to be driveable, but with some stance.
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    So with the suspension I will need some rims of course.

    I think I will go with a 15x8 rim because that's the widest size it seems to come in for the rims I am looking at.

    15x8 Axis OG Oldskool (work Equip replicas) I would love to get the the real ones but they are way out of my budget. I can get a tire/wheel package with these for the price of like work equip rims lol.
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    Enkie Apaches 2 I like the black and silver one.
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    Or the Enkeis 92's, But I have seen 2 cars already in my local area with these so I don't know lol.
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    This is the height I am looking for do you think it is achievable with these coil overs and and a 15x8 I think they are +25 offset most of them. With a 205/50/15 tire.
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  • RoRoRoRo Wagonist
    You need to get a 6" orbital sander, but if to have blocks they should be good!

    personally I would get the first set of wheels, second ones look weird on a wagon or the last ones, and can't do enkies if everyone around you has them
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    RoRo wrote: »
    You need to get a 6" orbital sander, but if to have blocks they should be good!

    personally I would get the first set of wheels, second ones look weird on a wagon or the last ones, and can't do enkies if everyone around you has them

    Yeah, I went with sanding blocks.

    So this week I started sanding the engine bay. Had some dumb old drunk neighbours who like like to drink all day, and claim they know a lot about cars come over and start telling me I am wasting my time with this car bla bla bla lol. Anyways here is what I have done so far.
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    I removed both the shocks. I was thinking about removing the upper control arms bolts too, but I might just tape them up. The previous owner already painted them black when he did the engine bay black.

    Pretty much both side walls and strut towers are sanded down. I don't plan on sanding it all the way down. Just trying to remove most of the top coat of the older paint. Still have to do the firewall of the engine. I really want to get this bay painting and get the engine bay put in.

    Also what do you guys think about the cross member. It has been grinded to shit by the previous owner alot of metal detached. Is this very unsafe? Could I get another cross member off an ef from the scrap yard? Or do I have to get one from a wagon?
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    There has been another rim I have had my eye on. It is made by Klutch.
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    This rim comes in 15x8.5 +17 offset. There is a wagon on there website with these rims. http://www.klutchwheels.com/gallery/honda-civic
    I really want to find out what the specs are.
  • I don't believe the EF cross member will fit an EE.... The Klutch wheels look cool i would go with those myself, or the first set of Enkie Apache II's. A few tips on repainting your bay ( i am a Painter by trade) All the little spots you sanded to the metal but left a lot of paint buildup around are gonna show really bad when you get the clear coat on, to partially bypass this you can shoot the aprons with a High Build 2K primer, then 320-400 sand (lightly) the whole thing, Tack it off and spray the other primer you got (is it Rattle can or Quarts) If it is rattle can U should Omit that altogether, Rattle can primer and Automotive grade Lacquers do not mix well. Next.. depending on what size tips you got with that kit (probably 1.0 with the small touch up gun, and either 1.4 or 1.5 with the full size gun) you will want to shoot the Base coat (color) with the large gun (set your pressure to about 20-28 psi) low to medium paint flow, on a 6-8 inch wide pattern. Shoot a light fog/mist coat of color , allow 15-20 minutes flash time before your next coat. 2nd coat put down a light color coat (meaning you want coverage but not GLOSS) give 20-30 minutes flash time then spray one more coverage coat, When you start to mix your clear. (trust me on this as it will sound weird) clears mix 4-1 but you will want to change this slightly since you are doing an engine bay. use 4 parts clear, 1 part activator/hardener, 10% reducer and 20% color. To simplify the % equations do this For 32 oz mixed you should put in the 4-1 ratio of clear and hardener, then add 3 oz reducer and 6 oz of color. What this is going to do is give you a Super high gloss Kandy look to your paint job you want 2 medium fog coats of this then you want 2 straight 4-1 clear coats (no color no reducer) Allow 20-30 minutes flash time between coats. Considering where you live I would highly recommend, that you use a Slow or medium reducer in your color and clear coats and increase your paint flash times by 10 minutes. (unless you have a heated booth that you are painting in.... Sorry about the long write up, But i take A lot of pride in my work. And in turn My fellow Wagonists Cars... If you need any info please don't hesitate to ask
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    I don't believe the EF cross member will fit an EE.... The Klutch wheels look cool i would go with those myself, or the first set of Enkie Apache II's. A few tips on repainting your bay ( i am a Painter by trade) All the little spots you sanded to the metal but left a lot of paint buildup around are gonna show really bad when you get the clear coat on, to partially bypass this you can shoot the aprons with a High Build 2K primer, then 320-400 sand (lightly) the whole thing, Tack it off and spray the other primer you got (is it Rattle can or Quarts) If it is rattle can U should Omit that altogether, Rattle can primer and Automotive grade Lacquers do not mix well. Next.. depending on what size tips you got with that kit (probably 1.0 with the small touch up gun, and either 1.4 or 1.5 with the full size gun) you will want to shoot the Base coat (color) with the large gun (set your pressure to about 20-28 psi) low to medium paint flow, on a 6-8 inch wide pattern. Shoot a light fog/mist coat of color , allow 15-20 minutes flash time before your next coat. 2nd coat put down a light color coat (meaning you want coverage but not GLOSS) give 20-30 minutes flash time then spray one more coverage coat, When you start to mix your clear. (trust me on this as it will sound weird) clears mix 4-1 but you will want to change this slightly since you are doing an engine bay. use 4 parts clear, 1 part activator/hardener, 10% reducer and 20% color. To simplify the % equations do this For 32 oz mixed you should put in the 4-1 ratio of clear and hardener, then add 3 oz reducer and 6 oz of color. What this is going to do is give you a Super high gloss Kandy look to your paint job you want 2 medium fog coats of this then you want 2 straight 4-1 clear coats (no color no reducer) Allow 20-30 minutes flash time between coats. Considering where you live I would highly recommend, that you use a Slow or medium reducer in your color and clear coats and increase your paint flash times by 10 minutes. (unless you have a heated booth that you are painting in.... Sorry about the long write up, But i take A lot of pride in my work. And in turn My fellow Wagonists Cars... If you need any info please don't hesitate to ask

    I appreciate you taking the time to explain all of that to me.

    I took a picture for you so you could get an understanding of what I got already and what I might be missing. The paint guys at the store insisted I used their primer out of a can, when I was asking for the primer for the spray gun. He said their professional can primer works great with the their spray gun paint as well.

    Sorry for blurry picture tried to get it best I can what is in the picture this is the High build primer/filler. This is what he gave me with the rest of this stuff as well. A urethane grade reducer, medium clear coat activator, my flat white base coat paint, and clear coat. I still do not get why he insisted no primer from a spray gun? So I don't get why he said to use 1k primer and do the rest of the job 2k.
    Will this primer do the job like you said. Or should I go get a high build 2k primer. I would prefer not to spend more money, but I don't want it to turn out like crap either.
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  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    I have another question for you:

    You said to spray with High build 2k primer. Than my other primer. I currently have only the one type of primer which is the High build/filler from a can. What do you mean by using the two different primers? One to act as a sealer? And the other the primer to base coat over?
  • RoRoRoRo Wagonist
    Wagonhoe wrote: »
    There has been another rim I have had my eye on. It is made by Klutch.
    110.jpg
    This rim comes in 15x8.5 +17 offset. There is a wagon on there website with these rims. http://www.klutchwheels.com/gallery/honda-civic
    I really want to find out what the specs are.


    these are so sexy , they remind me of the wheels i just put on my truck! mine are 3rd gen trans am wheels, do those come in 4 bolt ?

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  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    Yeah, they do come in 4x100 and but the black and bronze only comes in 15x8.5 17 offset. I dont know if I should maybe go with 15's or 16's I want to make sure I get the correct offset. I see a lot of 15x8 with the 25 offset.

    http://www.wheelstudio.com/view-wheel/klutch-wheels/klutch-sl1-bronze-with-black-lip/wheel-size-all/wheel-bolt-pattern-all/wheel-price-all/vehicle-all

    You can check it out for your self here is the link to the other colors to. I also like the black with silver lip. Gives more offset options with the 15's as well.

    http://www.wheelstudio.com/wheels/wheel-brand-84_klutch-wheels/wheel-size-all/wheel-bolt-pattern-all/wheel-price-all/vehicle-all
  • RoRoRoRo Wagonist
    my 16x9 +20's fit on my wagon so perfect with a 195/50/16
  • Wagonhoe wrote: »
    I have another question for you:

    You said to spray with High build 2k primer. Than my other primer. I currently have only the one type of primer which is the High build/filler from a can. What do you mean by using the two different primers? One to act as a sealer? And the other the primer to base coat over?
    No using the high build 2k primer to fill in somewhat the low spots you made while sanding then using the 1k stuff to act as a sealer. The primer they sold you is fine but it will not act as a high build primer because it is a rattle can primer ( rattle can stuff is a lot thinner so it is sprayable from the can) the problem with thinner primer is that it will not build up as fast as High build 2k primer, the low spots you created while sanding (which is the spots where you see metal will be visible after you put on the clear. DO you have a heated booth that you wil be spraying in, or will you be doing this in a garage/workshop?
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    No using the high build 2k primer to fill in somewhat the low spots you made while sanding then using the 1k stuff to act as a sealer. The primer they sold you is fine but it will not act as a high build primer because it is a rattle can primer ( rattle can stuff is a lot thinner so it is sprayable from the can) the problem with thinner primer is that it will not build up as fast as High build 2k primer, the low spots you created while sanding (which is the spots where you see metal will be visible after you put on the clear. DO you have a heated booth that you wil be spraying in, or will you be doing this in a garage/workshop?

    No, I do not have a heated booth, and my garage is just a single car garage, but no space. So I will be doing this in my driveway. I was thinking about rigging up a painting type booth with tarps to prevent over spray, wind, and dust.

    I was under the impression sealer was used to put over old paint to act as a barrier to what used to be there. Sorry for asking so many questions. I just want to make sure I do this right. Since I have been putting so much time into this. I think I have way over sanded then. This is my first time doing this kind of work, I love to learn as much as I can.

    How much of this paint should I be sanding off? I literally was trying to remove as much as I can which is a PIA. It is a rattle can job by the way.

    I also bought scotch brite scruff pads. At what step do I use these? Couldn't I just technically of went over all that rattle can paint than primed it? Instead of all these sanding I have done.

    As of now this is what I got for my steps of what to do.

    1. Sand (Do I have to take off all the old black rattle can paint? Or just feather it out kinda?)
    2. Scruff pad it all up?
    3. 2k High build primer (The whole bay or just the spots with metal exposed)
    4. My 1k rattle can primer the whole bay
    5. Scruff it up again?
    6. 2k base coat
    7. 2k clear coat

    From your previous post I think I got it I am pretty clear on the base coat, and clear coat mixing and painting steps.
  • A nice write up wagonhoe.. Its crazy cuz their is a white wagon wit a stash jus like that down here but shes this blonde chic wit short hair and she has tinted windows and a poptop sunroof.. looking good though wagonhoe;)
  • WagonhoeWagonhoe Wagonist
    A nice write up wagonhoe.. Its crazy cuz their is a white wagon wit a stash jus like that down here but shes this blonde chic wit short hair and she has tinted windows and a poptop sunroof.. looking good though wagonhoe;)

    Haha thanks. Yeah, I honestly bought the car with the mustache on it. I bought it in the month of November last year so I thought it was for Movember. Which is a month here where guys grow only a mustache, to raise money for prostate cancer. I have seen a lot of cars with mustaches. So I was wondering if it also symbolizes something else.
  • Wagonhoe wrote: »
    Haha thanks. Yeah, I honestly bought the car with the mustache on it. I bought it in the month of November last year so I thought it was for Movember. Which is a month here where guys grow only a mustache, to raise money for prostate cancer. I have seen a lot of cars with mustaches. So I was wondering if it also symbolizes something else.

    Awe ya well hey i think thats hekka cool. Idk what you cal it i call it the dirty sanchez haha jus kidding but na ya im growin mine out haha.. im bout to put some updates up.. i been putin in work on the lil wagsta.. lemme know what you think.. I got a zc on it. i wish i would have waited and saved for a z6 but o well.. shoulda coulda. Its the real time 4wd so not tyna get too many horses on her but was thinkin bout boosting the zc but idk yet.. I kinda wanna get some feed back before i decie to do that.
  • Hey wagonhoe i jus did some updates on my wagsta build. Check it and lemme know what ya think. Hopefully my pics cameout cuz i couldnt get them to work:/lol
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