Also I don't have another stock ecu. Mine is Automatic and yes stock d16a6. (completely stock wagon, even had the stock radio still lol)
I've checked the tps and that wasn't it. I will clean the grounds and try to find another ecu. It's hard where I am cause no one around here has an automatic wagon. I have 2 friends that have a 5 speed (jealous) but that's legit the only other wagons around here or in 5 hour radious of me. 2 junkyards but none of them have wagons.
Can I swap a 5 speed dizzy to see if that does anything or will that not work cause mine is auto?
Well, not finding anything that specifically refers to obd0, but in obd1 it wont let you shift out of park. Easy to get around if you have a spare key, just put it in the emergency shift unlock spot to get it into drive and drive it until it does the bog or doesnt. Might be worth a try.
Try with the grounds first man! I was having some strange issues with the car, it didn't want to start even! Then I cleaned the green shit off the contacts and now even the foglights work. They didn't before. Voodoo stuff!
Try with the grounds first man! I was having some strange issues with the car, it didn't want to start even! Then I cleaned the green shit off the contacts and now even the foglights work. They didn't before. Voodoo stuff!
Definitely a good idea. Specifically the ECU ground on the thermostat housing which I believe you already addressed and the main ground (Used for starter juice) that goes from chassis to transmission. In cable trannies this connects to the cable bracket on the tranny under the battery. I don't Imagine the Auto's are very different, so I would look for it in that area. Or you can follow it from the battery, it should go from the battery to a bracket that grounds it to the chassis and then to the tranny.
So I had some time yesterday to fix some stuff. Put in new altenater, fuel filter, fuel pump, oil change. Im gonna clean the injectors with some c-foam and redo all the grounds.
After doing all that I drove it around for an hour and had no bogging issues and drove great. But then it just started to happen again.
When I primmed the fuel filter my fuel pressure regulator sounded like it wasn't getting anything. So I'm going to get a new one when I get paid Thursday.
I haven't checked up on the ecu as of yet but this weekend I'll go through it.
Bam-Bam- yes it's the same tank. I've cleaned it out as much as I can without swapping the tank. (Can't find any around here) and new pump/ pump filter and under hood fuel filter.
I just ordered a fuel pressure regulator and seeing if this fixes it.
Ok, I missed where you dropped the tank. Sorry, The only way to clean it is remove the pump and gauge sender and fish from there..
How would you go about cleaning the tank? I've heard plenty of ways to do it. My boss actually said to put enough gas in to fill the bottom and light a match... I'm a little worried about what would happen HAHA.
Update: it's all fixed. Cleaned out the gas tank, and put a new fuel pressure regulator. Drove it for 3 hours last night and it is amazing in the snow storm.
Yeah, I wouldn't ever do that haha. I cleaned it out as much as I could through the fuel pump hole. I've been driving it for couple days now and haven't had any issues besides the classic "honda idle" I've cleaned out the idle control valve still does it but IT's not to bad, so I'm not going to worry about it.
Okay so not fixed... I'm getting so irritated. New fuel pump, new fuel filter, new fuel pressure regulator, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor. New altenater. Just did oil change.
As I'm driving I barley touch the gas peddle and it bogs down and shuts off. THEN it won't start. It turns over just fine but won't start...
HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT before I get rid of it PLEASE!
I haven't checked the grounds yet. It did take a little bit to start when I turn the key over.
As I was driving it bogged a little and the rpm's went way down, so I stepped on the gas and it died and wouldn't start. So I left it for the night and the next day I went and got the wagon and It just started first try. Drove it home no problem. (about 2 miles). Now what I don't understand is why would it just die and not start but the next day it started???
Reasons I think it could be- Dizzy, main relay, bad ground. I'm gonna go through it when I get a chance and when it's not 10 degree's outside.
Main relay- easy fix. Pull it and just reheat the solder for a quick fix. remove the solder and replace it for a permanent fix (well, 25ish years permanent). Plenty of how to's online. Could be dizzy, hopefully it's not as they are 200$ or so (here in CA anyway). Really doubt it is a bad ground, but it is always possible. Should clean them up any way if they haven't been in a while.
I called a local Honda dealership and the guy said it possibly could be the Cold start switch.
I did also tell him everything else that I have replaced and what I have been dealing with and he said just go through the grounds just to make sure a small problem doesn't become a bigger problem. Also told him bout the ecu long blinks and he said it shouldn't have an effect on the whole bog and not starting part but a good idea to change what the code reads as it intake temperature (code 10). I'm just going to replace the cold start switch and the intake temp. Also one of my buddys has a obd0 dizzy that I may just get from him for $30 and put new cap and rotor on it just to make sure it's all good.
I just hope it runs better and have no more issue's.
What I don't understand is why it would be the cold start switch if my car starts bogging randomly as I'm driving and if I press the gas peddle it will die out on me Then won't start until it's cold...
I think it's the coil! See it all the time. The coils windings short and cause it to get hot and break up under more load. It can start up and run for 5 min just fine and all of a sudden you go to pass and BOG!! And the bog will get worse from there with the more throttle input you supply. And if you just barely touch the gas you can make it go but will eventually die out. Once it cools down it will start back up and get you down the road till it heats up again. Sounds crazy but I see it all the time. Try to get a friends dizzy and try it out. If it fixes your prob than you got it. And you can buy just the coil and change it out. Msd and Accel actually sell direct replacement coils for around $40!
I think it's the coil! See it all the time. The coils windings short and cause it to get hot and break up under more load. It can start up and run for 5 min just fine and all of a sudden you go to pass and BOG!! And the bog will get worse from there with the more throttle input you supply. And if you just barely touch the gas you can make it go but will eventually die out. Once it cools down it will start back up and get you down the road till it heats up again. Sounds crazy but I see it all the time. Try to get a friends dizzy and try it out. If it fixes your prob than you got it. And you can buy just the coil and change it out. Msd and Accel actually sell direct replacement coils for around $40!
I will try to find another dizzy around here. Few to none wagons around here that are obd0. If I can't find another dizzy I'll just but new cap, rotor, and coil and have a new dizzy for way less then what parts stores want around here.
I will try to find another dizzy around here. Few to none wagons around here that are obd0. If I can't find another dizzy I'll just but new cap, rotor, and coil and have a new dizzy for way less then what parts stores want around here.
Yes much cheaper that way. What you pay a lot for are the crank angle sensor and cam position sensors. And any 88-91 civic, crx, hb, wagon dizzy will work as long as its not swapped. It can be from a 1.5 or 1.6. Doesn't matter. So that should help the search a little bit. Let me know how it goes if you try one out. And whatever you do don't sell it! I regretted losing my first one. Took 5 years to find the one I have now.
Yes much cheaper that way. What you pay a lot for are the crank angle sensor and cam position sensors. And any 88-91 civic, crx, hb, wagon dizzy will work as long as its not swapped. It can be from a 1.5 or 1.6. Doesn't matter. So that should help the search a little bit. Let me know how it goes if you try one out. And whatever you do don't sell it! I regretted losing my first one. Took 5 years to find the one I have now.
Yeah I just called autozone and they want $60 for just the coil. (lifetime warranty though) It's just hard around NH cause no one around here has them and if they do they are complete piles. The hard part of finding one is the obd0 part.
I really don't want to get rid of it. Reasons to why I keep asking all these questions haha.
Now can you swap a coil from any other civics or it has to be the same generation or so.
My friend said he has a couple dizzys from his 97 civic (stock y7) and another from his eg (stock 1.5). Now could I swap the coil out into mine and work?
You can use any obd0 dizzy for replacement but I think if you have an 89 then to change the coil you need an 88 or 89 year coil. There is a different part number for 90-91 so idk. But the 88-89 Integra has the same part number for its dizzy coil so maybe that will help. And if you plan on goin the cap, rotor, and coil tune up route, you can get an external MSD Blaster SS external coil conversion kit that has it all for around $90 on eBay NIB! Hope that helps ya some.
Comments
I've checked the tps and that wasn't it. I will clean the grounds and try to find another ecu. It's hard where I am cause no one around here has an automatic wagon. I have 2 friends that have a 5 speed (jealous) but that's legit the only other wagons around here or in 5 hour radious of me. 2 junkyards but none of them have wagons.
Can I swap a 5 speed dizzy to see if that does anything or will that not work cause mine is auto?
Definitely a good idea. Specifically the ECU ground on the thermostat housing which I believe you already addressed and the main ground (Used for starter juice) that goes from chassis to transmission. In cable trannies this connects to the cable bracket on the tranny under the battery. I don't Imagine the Auto's are very different, so I would look for it in that area. Or you can follow it from the battery, it should go from the battery to a bracket that grounds it to the chassis and then to the tranny.
After doing all that I drove it around for an hour and had no bogging issues and drove great. But then it just started to happen again.
When I primmed the fuel filter my fuel pressure regulator sounded like it wasn't getting anything. So I'm going to get a new one when I get paid Thursday.
I haven't checked up on the ecu as of yet but this weekend I'll go through it.
Bam-Bam- yes it's the same tank. I've cleaned it out as much as I can without swapping the tank. (Can't find any around here) and new pump/ pump filter and under hood fuel filter.
I just ordered a fuel pressure regulator and seeing if this fixes it.
How would you go about cleaning the tank? I've heard plenty of ways to do it. My boss actually said to put enough gas in to fill the bottom and light a match... I'm a little worried about what would happen HAHA.
Probably very severe burns.
Yeah, I wouldn't ever do that haha. I cleaned it out as much as I could through the fuel pump hole. I've been driving it for couple days now and haven't had any issues besides the classic "honda idle" I've cleaned out the idle control valve still does it but IT's not to bad, so I'm not going to worry about it.
As I'm driving I barley touch the gas peddle and it bogs down and shuts off. THEN it won't start. It turns over just fine but won't start...
HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT before I get rid of it PLEASE!
As I was driving it bogged a little and the rpm's went way down, so I stepped on the gas and it died and wouldn't start. So I left it for the night and the next day I went and got the wagon and It just started first try. Drove it home no problem. (about 2 miles). Now what I don't understand is why would it just die and not start but the next day it started???
Reasons I think it could be- Dizzy, main relay, bad ground. I'm gonna go through it when I get a chance and when it's not 10 degree's outside.
Any other issues it could be????
I did also tell him everything else that I have replaced and what I have been dealing with and he said just go through the grounds just to make sure a small problem doesn't become a bigger problem. Also told him bout the ecu long blinks and he said it shouldn't have an effect on the whole bog and not starting part but a good idea to change what the code reads as it intake temperature (code 10). I'm just going to replace the cold start switch and the intake temp. Also one of my buddys has a obd0 dizzy that I may just get from him for $30 and put new cap and rotor on it just to make sure it's all good.
I just hope it runs better and have no more issue's.
I will try to find another dizzy around here. Few to none wagons around here that are obd0. If I can't find another dizzy I'll just but new cap, rotor, and coil and have a new dizzy for way less then what parts stores want around here.
Yes much cheaper that way. What you pay a lot for are the crank angle sensor and cam position sensors. And any 88-91 civic, crx, hb, wagon dizzy will work as long as its not swapped. It can be from a 1.5 or 1.6. Doesn't matter. So that should help the search a little bit. Let me know how it goes if you try one out. And whatever you do don't sell it! I regretted losing my first one. Took 5 years to find the one I have now.
Yeah I just called autozone and they want $60 for just the coil. (lifetime warranty though) It's just hard around NH cause no one around here has them and if they do they are complete piles. The hard part of finding one is the obd0 part.
I really don't want to get rid of it. Reasons to why I keep asking all these questions haha.
My friend said he has a couple dizzys from his 97 civic (stock y7) and another from his eg (stock 1.5). Now could I swap the coil out into mine and work?
I figured out that you can't put a obd1/obd2 coil into a obd0 dizzy cause it won't fit. BUT possibly a b series obd0 one might fit...