Bogging problem....

As I'm driving it'll bog out like it shuts off kinda but comes back into it. Feels like not enough gas but a few things it could be then that.

As I was driving it was fine for a bit then bogged out and comes into it again. I barley can hit the gas peddle. It does it in any gear. If I stomp on it it does the same thing. I was in 3rd gear going around 30 mph and no matter what I did it kept bogging out on me every few yards I went and wouldn't go any faster without it bogging...
Also if I put the gas peddle about half throttle starting on a hill it will do the same thing.

-Fuel pump hums when I turn the key on.
-I've put a brand new fuel filter in (witch helped a bit untill now).

Could it be the coil or something clogging up?

I'm just stumped on this and never had an issue with this before. Also it's an automatic rt4wd.

Any Info would be helpful!
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Comments

  • Anyone have any kind of idea what it may be?
  • I recently had my car with the same issue, all I had to do is swap the Fuel Filter over (which you've already done).

    You've probably already checked the Main Relay aswell I'm assuming.

    It may be a situation of trial and error, like mine, I swapped the fuel pump over and checked the timing still with no success. But when I swapped the fuel filter over, it worked.
  • Yeah main relay is fine. Fuel filter is right and looks fine. Only thing i can really think of is something may be clogged up.
    I'm going to clean out some censors that may cause that problem but I really don't think that would be it.
  • Yeah sorry mate, I'm no mechanic :)
  • It's alright man. No worries.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    check fuel pressure. fuel pressure regulator?
  • Will check that out.
  • Anyone else have any thoughts?
  • Also Fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator is fine.
  • Update: All censors are cleaned out to do with fuel and throttle body but still does it...
  • VLxTurtleVLxTurtle New Wagonist
    man im having the same problem, just started like 2 days ago, i brought it to a couple of mechanic shops and they told me it might be the carburetor, i havent tried changing the fuel pump or checked any censors, if you get the problem fixed please be sure to update.
  • Will do. This weekend I'm going through the whole thing. If I still can't figure it out I may just trade it. Got a guy wanting to trade me a 4x4 mazda B4000 truck. Rather have that just for towing shit around and moving to NC next summer.

    I'll update once I figure out if I fixed it or not.

    My solution to you is Clean out Idle control valve, Injectors may be clogged, New Dizzy (coil may be bad). New fuel filter. If you do get a fuel pump ebay has them cheap or I'd like to try to find a oem honda one from a junkyard. I don't know if any other fuel pumps would be able to be interchangeable.

    If not any of those then you're in the same situation as me good sir.
  • VLxTurtleVLxTurtle New Wagonist
    Hey I managed to stop my problem(for now), I found out my intake was kinda loose when I was looking to see if my throttle was clean. I also changed the spark plug wires and distributor cap just cause I had a new set laying around( this might not have anything to do with the problem and I know nothing about fixing car or car parts for that matter, I read online that fuel injection car don't have carburetors, that's what the mechanic told me so I just went along, sorry sucks being uneducated) but now my car doesn't bog anymore and goes up hills full throttle with no problem but it does idle when I leave it sitting for a while, sounds like it wants to turn off. It comes and goes but i think it has something to do with my battery since its been giving me a lot of trouble maintaining steady power ( when I hit the clutch pedal down the light dims a little) If you know any solutions please let me know.
  • I'll check out the throttle body and see if that does anything. I was unfortantly really busy over the weekend and wasn't able to even touch my wagon.

    For your problem I'd checked the Altenator first witch would cause your battery to die out eventually. Also check to make sure battery conection is good. You can always turn up your idle a tad bit.
  • I had the same issue, car would drive normal but when giving it extra throttle or taking quick corner it would die for a few seconds then come back to life. Turned out to be a faulty fuel pump.

    Have you tried revving your engine and checking the fuel pressure at the same time?
  • I have not tried revving the engine and checking fuel pressure.

    Does anyone know if any fuel pumps are interchangable for the wagons?
    I went on ebay and it had a few diffrent ef modles 90 hatch and 91 hatch so on and the one was listed in the same one... I have another fuel pump that my friend had and thought it was junk but turns out it wasn't and thats from his 93 civic 4dr. I rather not put in all that work just to find out it won't work with my wagon but also it's free.
  • pretty sure they will all fit, worst case scenario is you have to swap the new pump into the old assembly. Not that hard at all.
  • True. I'll just do it. Update when It's done.
  • UPDATE:

    Alright so I pulled out the fuel pump and just happen to look inside my gas tank and I saw a lot of pine needles and small twigs in it... I can only think of two reasons on why there was pine needles and twigs. Some bitch really hated the guy I got the wagon from or the tank was replaced at some point of time and it sat collecting it.

    I sucked out all the gas and started to take out the pine needles and twigs hoping that would fix it. I cleaned out the pump and put it back in, filled the gas tank with some 93 and some stp gas treatment. Only to find out it still bogged and just kept ruining my day. Cold weather and snow/sleet is not a good time.

    So now I have to go through the fuel lines and get yet another fuel filter. (The joy of cars)
  • Also update on the fuel pump. I was going to replace it with a EK one my friend gave me but came into a couple problems.

    The 6 holes on top of assembly does not line up.
    The EK pump has a clip that plugs into the pump but doesn't have a clip on the wago pump/assembly.

    So I'm getting a crx full assembly tomorrow and hopefully I can just put that one in with no problems.
  • Instead of changing over the whole assembly just change the pump itself. It's fairly straight forward.
  • Try looking at the grounds, especially on the cable from the battery.
    Also try replacing the fuel pump relay, if you haven't already...didn't read through the topic, just ideas...
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    Did you just replace your distributor cap or the rotor inside as well? definitely change that and you should be good to go, otherwise it might be the TPS faulty and not throwing a code yet.
  • changing the fuel pump assembally I honestly think is easier cause all you would have to do is unbolt the one already in it and replace the new one (with pump already attached).

    I'll check the grounds and make sure everything is correct and tightened good. Also I haven't checked the pump relay. will do that as well.

    I've replaced: Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter (will have to do again cause of the whole clogged up tank).
    I was thinking it possibly could be the map censor as well if not the TPS.
    No check engine light is on. BUT it does come on when the "Bog" happens and stays on unitl I shut the car off. I've tried to count the light on the ecu (obd0) check but it's a constant blink not like example: 2 long 5 short. just constant long.
  • I dont think the tps would cause a bog as you can unplug it and the car will run fine. Just a little slower on the throttle response. The map sensor could, but usually they just kill the engine when they stop working. I'm thinking that it is more likely something in the distributor. Also if the ecu is just blinking one long blink over and over, It could be bad. Do you have one to stick in there for a bit and see if the problem comes back? If the check engine light only comes on for the bog then it has to be something the ecu can read, so it could be fuel injector related. I would still try and swap dizzys with someone and see if the problem disappears or follows the distributor to the other car.
  • One long blink is code 10 on obd1 ecus which refers to the intake temperature sensor. obd0 shouldn't do long blinks.
  • Is it a stock engine in there? d16a6? Can't find any pictures of your engine bay.
  • Had a bad bogging problem with my 90 integra, the idle was bad and ruined my vtec, eventually switched whole throttle body and new sensors because mechanic said tps was bad, fixed everything!Had a bad bogging problem in my 88rt, took it to my mechanic totally assuming it was feul related when he checked the spark plugs first and pulled them out and they were drenched in oil. He said the gasket sealant must have worn, I had just sealed it a year ago with autozone sealant, he said that stuff isn't reliable and replaced the sealant with a high quality sealant, after he cleaned out my plugs I haven't had the problem since.
  • Remove and clean the engine harness ground on the thermostat, then put it back and make sure it snug. Long light on the ecu if I remember right points to a bad ecu. Try another just for shits!

    My hatch had this problem. Pretty sure it was ignition related.
  • UPDATE tomorrow:

    Will be working on wagon tomorrow. Dropping the tank.
    Got new fuel pump, fuel filter, altenater, and doing a oil change. will check out more stuff.


    I just hope everything turns out good cause if it doesn't I'm pretty much giving up.
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