SUPER slow build/ twin scroll hx35 rt4wd wagon
secretcitizen
Wagonist
I figured I would start a thread to give me motivation to get things done to my car.
I have grown to become VERY cheap, and lazy with my build. I won't even buy anything that's $20 without questioning it so much that I won't even go through with it.
SO, hopefully I can get get some motivation from seeing what is NOT done so far and from you guys.
I let the picture do the talking for now and I explain what's left afterwards.
As it sits: Engine bay getting prepped for a white paint job.
Don't mind the fuel tanks
cleaned trans and rear diff
DIY rt4wd short(er) throw shifter. (Thanks to Gizmo for this idea.)
LCA, knuckles, RTA painted gloss black
(cross member sprayed as a durability test piece
Speedfactory style vented VC
My aluminium welding is meh.
Interior repainted black
Golden Eagle sleeved D16z6:
77mm bore
9.5:1 cp pistons
Spec rods (3/8 rod bolts)
Balanced crank
>/= .002" main honda bearings
>/= .0015" rod honda bearings
White gunk is chain lube to prevent rusting.
Endyn port and polish head with supertech valves, springs, etc
Hx35 7blade with 12cm turbine housing
Welded in a plate to separate wastegate "area"
Plans:
Turbo and manifold
I will build my own sidewinder twin scroll manifold so I can retain my AC.
Manifold and turbine housing will be ceramic coated or blanketed to reduce heat/help spool.
If I can get close to using the full potential of the 60lb/min turbo I'll be happy.
(i know this is not TS, but so you get the idea)
AC
My AC lines will be re-routed back behind the motor to avoid the manifold all together. I will utilize the factory lines and re-weld them in areas as needed.
Drivetrain
Stock 88 rt4wd (with hydro slave cylinder mouted to cable arm)
Stock rear diff
(needed) driveshaft. Mine was bent
Spec stage 3+ clutch
The drivetrain should hold up ok. Only concern I have is the 90° gear in the transmission. On a RWD wagon build it was the first part to break.*
If transmission fails I will make a D2B and use a CRV trans with the wagon rear diff. I will use different size tires at that point to offset the difference between wagon and crv front and rear diffs.
The I made a bracket for a master cylinder on the wagon pedals. It is hydro to cable converted to help with reliability with a heavy clutch.
Also, skateboard griptape on the pedals.
Motor, etc
GE intake manifold
y8 fuel rail with 6an fuel lines
ID 1000
Delta 272-2 cam ????
Fuel pump is in-tank walbro 400
Lines are stock with no banjo fittings, converted to 6an.
Cooling and intercooler
Full size radiator
vertical "same side" intercooler
Tuning
Hondata S300
I will let Secret Services in Houston, Tx do the hard part, but I wouldn't mind learning a bit afterwards so I can tweak and tune as needed.
Will run a dual tune, one on 93 and the other on C16.
I have grown to become VERY cheap, and lazy with my build. I won't even buy anything that's $20 without questioning it so much that I won't even go through with it.
SO, hopefully I can get get some motivation from seeing what is NOT done so far and from you guys.
I let the picture do the talking for now and I explain what's left afterwards.
As it sits: Engine bay getting prepped for a white paint job.
Don't mind the fuel tanks
cleaned trans and rear diff
DIY rt4wd short(er) throw shifter. (Thanks to Gizmo for this idea.)
LCA, knuckles, RTA painted gloss black
(cross member sprayed as a durability test piece
Speedfactory style vented VC
My aluminium welding is meh.
Interior repainted black
Golden Eagle sleeved D16z6:
77mm bore
9.5:1 cp pistons
Spec rods (3/8 rod bolts)
Balanced crank
>/= .002" main honda bearings
>/= .0015" rod honda bearings
White gunk is chain lube to prevent rusting.
Endyn port and polish head with supertech valves, springs, etc
Hx35 7blade with 12cm turbine housing
Welded in a plate to separate wastegate "area"
Plans:
Turbo and manifold
I will build my own sidewinder twin scroll manifold so I can retain my AC.
Manifold and turbine housing will be ceramic coated or blanketed to reduce heat/help spool.
If I can get close to using the full potential of the 60lb/min turbo I'll be happy.
(i know this is not TS, but so you get the idea)
AC
My AC lines will be re-routed back behind the motor to avoid the manifold all together. I will utilize the factory lines and re-weld them in areas as needed.
Drivetrain
Stock 88 rt4wd (with hydro slave cylinder mouted to cable arm)
Stock rear diff
(needed) driveshaft. Mine was bent
Spec stage 3+ clutch
The drivetrain should hold up ok. Only concern I have is the 90° gear in the transmission. On a RWD wagon build it was the first part to break.*
If transmission fails I will make a D2B and use a CRV trans with the wagon rear diff. I will use different size tires at that point to offset the difference between wagon and crv front and rear diffs.
The I made a bracket for a master cylinder on the wagon pedals. It is hydro to cable converted to help with reliability with a heavy clutch.
Also, skateboard griptape on the pedals.
Motor, etc
GE intake manifold
y8 fuel rail with 6an fuel lines
ID 1000
Delta 272-2 cam ????
Fuel pump is in-tank walbro 400
Lines are stock with no banjo fittings, converted to 6an.
Cooling and intercooler
Full size radiator
vertical "same side" intercooler
Tuning
Hondata S300
I will let Secret Services in Houston, Tx do the hard part, but I wouldn't mind learning a bit afterwards so I can tweak and tune as needed.
Will run a dual tune, one on 93 and the other on C16.
Comments
looks like a solid build, cant wait to see what numbers it puts down
Where ever he is going it will be stupid fast. Interested in this definitely.
That's the plan
I hope so.
In this cars lifetime it has had:
D16a6 RT (oem)
ITR (how I bought it)
B20vtec high-compression (Didn't work out)
K20z3 (to expensive for anything)
AND now D16 agian
Shooting for >500hp.
Patience. It will be done eventually, but parts come in slow. I am a husband, and a father of two with a stay at home wife.
I sent the block to the machine shop with a new crank, and girdle. When I bought the block it had an A6 crank, and girdle that was align honed. The previous owner set the clearances on the tight end of spec. When I wanted to open up the clearances I ran out of bearing sizes. Since I would have to send it to the machine shop anyway I just figured I would use a Z6 crank/girdle. Getting the new crank polished, girdle align honed if needed, depending on readings, and a little bit of a bonus.
Readings that were taken:
Rod journal spec 1.7707-17717
Rod journals (after crank polish):
1) 1.7709
2) 1.7707
3) 1.7709
4) 1.7709
Rod bore spec 1.8898-1.8907
Scat Rod bore:
1) 1.8907
2) 1.8905
3) 1.8905
4) 1.8905
With that I can calculate what bearings I will need to get around .0018".
Do you think that these rod clearances are sufficient for a 500-600hp build?
Now the main specs, and readings.
Main journal spec 2.1644-2.1654
Main journal:
1) 2.1646
2) 2.1647
3) 2.1646
4) 2.1646
5) 2.1647
Main housing bore spec 2.3228-2.3237
Main housing bore:
1) 2.3235
2) 2.3241
3) 2.3241
4) 2.3244
5) 2.3237
As you can see the housing bores are out of spec. What that mean is that the bore is too big, and there will hardly be any bearing crush. So as you may have guessed I will need to get an align hone on the girdle.
What that does is take material off the flat surface of the girdle so it makes the bore smaller.
The machinist doesn't have the small enough tool to do the align hone at the time, so I will have to bring it back to him in a few weeks when he buys one.
Now the bonus work!!
I had a grove cut for a copper o-ring.
Here comes >30psi
It is a .040" grove cut down .030" so that there will be .010" of copper to crush for a better seal.
That's it for now I think. I've been out of town for over a month, and I go back after thanksgiving.
Wow, dude. Keep it going!
It will be good to see this one back out on the road.
As far as the build goes I don't think much will be happening to it for a while. I am working out in Meridian, Ms for about a month (or longer) until I get a better offer that is, hopefully, coming up in SLC, Ut
Only time I am going home for a while is on holidays, to see my baby being born in March, and in April to take my CWI test. Who knows, something might get done on the holidays when I'm home.
Motor is for sale if anyone is interested.
FS: Sleeved/ O-ringed D16z6, Endyn head - Houston-Imports.com
Logic is kicking my teeth in on this one.
The car will stay A6'ed, and just be as it's meant to be.
I fully agree, i was just excited to see this thing run.