alright, i ordered a magnaflow cat, yonaka type-r style header, Si-R EF cluster, front and rear camber kit, and tomorrow im going to order a zoom stage 3 clutch.....ill post up pics as soon as all that stuff gets here.....just thought i would throw an update up
I've never seen a 4-1 B-series header in an EF that didn't hang really low. Maybe the one you're getting is different, but I bet ground clearance will be an issue if you lower your car at all.
If it's a type-r replica is should hug pretty nice. The only issue you may have with that header is the crossmember. You may have to pound that crap out of it or cut and re-weld some pieces in. Looks like your taking your time and doing things right. Like the build so far, hope everything turns out great.
thanks guys, i was messing with the suspension yesterday and it is such a mess.....i think i have to get like all new bushings which there is some more goddamn money....oh yeah i ordered a stage 3 zoom clutch today, and it turned out that yonaka header was on back order which sucks, so we just settled for a megan racing one which didnt seem all that bad(i hope i dont have too many fitment issues but if i do my dad can weld and shit and fix pretty much anything).....i got a pic of the cluster....im not too sure if it is an si-r one but it still looks way better than what i have
day
if the RPMs went to 7200 i would know for SURE that i came from a JDM/EDM Si with the DOHC ZC..but since its only to 7000...eh, im not to sure :P perhaps P could answer for us..?
one other thing, did you notice the warning codes all fudged up when you installed it? when i got my EDM one the engine check light was wired to the E-brake and the oil light came on when the doors were CLOSED.. and the battery light just never went off :S what i did was i changed out the backing plate thingy with the wiring on the cluster and swapped it from my original..now it works great
ok, another thing... is the red illumination on the top like in USDM spec clusters not on? or is it just in the pic.. it looks really sweet without it.
haha you know i wish i could answer those questions but i am still waiting on it to get here but i will check for every thing you mentioned as soon as i get it....sorry lol
well i took a pic of my rims and the shift knob i just got today from a friend so here they are....
i have had the rims for almost a year, just need some damn tires haha
i have 195/50/15 Kumho Escta AST high-performance all-season tires on mine, and i love them. super quiet, comfortable on bumps, and they grip amazing, rain grip is also superb. and for $41 a piece, a downright bargain not to mention i also got a $40 mail-in rebate.. haha.
well yeah my dad can get the best effing hook-ups....my clutch was supposed to retail for $670 and my dad got it for $300 flat....so tires we can get a good deal but i will look into those you mentioned
alright i got that cluster today and holy shit the bubble wrapped the piss out of it, at least 15 layers or more and the cluster was in almost brand new condition.....here is the bubble wrap for sh!ts and giggles
and my old cluster which the fuel gauge was broken off of
alright, well i got my header yesterday which actually turned out to be extremely nice looking.....i should be getting my magnaflow cat today along with the clutch and some other misc. parts and i will get pics as soon as i get them, but for now here is the manifold on the block.....
That header is nice looking, but you will definitely have to hack up your front cross member to make it fit... or buy an aftermarket cro$$member. Also, I am positive you will have ground clearance issues. It will be the lowest thing under your car by far. You will always be scared that you are going to drag it and bottom out on it. It really sucks to always be nervous like that. My advise (not that you asked for it) is to get a 4-2-1 and eliminate 2 giant headaches.
Here is another tip about polished headers that is directed at nobody in particular. I see it often, though. Permanent fingerprints. If you don't clean the header VERY well before you heat it up the first time, all the oils and finger prints will become cooked into the finish. As the header darkens with age, all those finger prints and oil spots become really noticeable. They are darn near impossible to get out, also. So, make sure it is oil-free before running the engine for the first time. Rubbing alcohol on a clean rag works well.
why would the header be a really bad clearance issue, wouldnt it be the same as a normal EF hatch? Also about cleaning it before first start up thank you i will DEFINATELY do that lol......i think for the cross member ill be fine, since my dad could clean that up.....oh yeah, do i use that front mount on the cross member?
oh yeah today i should have the rest of my parts so maybe i can drop the motor in the bay sometime this weekend.....im so excited, as soon as i first drive it ill prolly go through like 20 tanks of gas haha
another thing, im sure it isnt hard to wire the LS motor all up and wire up dual to multi fuel injection, so it would be awesome if someone would help me out a bit on that....and i have the whole wire harness for the LS motor, is it junk or can i use it?
this is the BEST source i found on MPFI wiring. um, unless you want Rywire or something like that to make your harness, then your LS harness is pretty much junk. you will need the fuel injector plugs and injector resitor box.. if you do the wiring yourself.
alright thats cool, thanks dude....i want to save money and do the wiring myself but when i think about it i just get so damn confused for some reason like i put too much thought into it lol
yeah i ad to read it like 5 times over again before i felt comfortable with it whatever you do, take your time!!!! and dont be scared to ask a question
yeah, clearance would be the same as any EF... 4-1 B-series headers on an EF is trouble. A lot of guys go with them, but you have to be really careful. It also helps if there are perfect roads where you live.
The above is a lovefab 4-1 b-series header that is made out of heavy stainless steel. It is strong as hell. The car is an EF hatch that is lowered 1 inch. The header hugs up against the oil pan really close. It is a little difficult to tell, because the camera is below it and looking up, but it hangs low... where the rim meets the tire (205/50-15) is about how much clearance there is. I banged it on an uneven driveway and a pot hole in a parking lot... both at really low speeds. I think that because that header is sooo thick and because my car wasn't really lowered, the dents are pretty minor. I was always careful to avoid things like that, but you see the damage. Luckily, I never hit anything going down the highway.
I've seen them where the tubes get completely smashed. I've also seen pictures of cars with coilovers where they dumped the car like 3.5 inches and when they put the car back on the ground, it rested on the header lol. I've also seen people build skid plates to protect their header. If you ask me, 4-1's are way more trouble than they are worth... in an EF, anyway.
oh alright that does seem like weak sauce but i absolutely hate the 2 piece header lol and im a picky s.o.b. yeah my car is sitting on those 13 inch shit heap rims and i think it should only be about 1.5" - 2" drop when the motor is in but if it doesnt clear, sh!t i dunno i guess i will have to go with the 4-2-1......i never hit holes or anything, i mean there is that every once in a while but i remember where pretty much every hole and bump on the roads are at. I used to have a 96 civic coupe and it was lowered about 3.75" and i never scraped on anything and that thing was low as heck.
I was hunting around and found some more pics out on the internet...
now, this picture shows a true oem 98-spec JDM ITR 4-1 header with good clearance..
Notice how the pipes are offset and nestled close? They fit together kinda like a rack of pool balls? Most 4-1 headers have the pipes stacked on top of one another... lined up vertically for less clearance.
oh dang that guy cut a sh!tload out. dang that thing does sit so much closer than mine does....i first ordered that yonaka type-r style one, and it was on back order til the end of this month but maybe i will just see if i can find it somewhere else if it will be that close.
yeah, dude cut more than needed. The crossmember is hollow, and he welded a wall around the whole opening that he cut out. The crossmember will eventually tear/rip if you don't reinforce where you cut. I don't know if you need a wall like that guy did, but I would do *something* to strengthen it.
Comments
I've never seen a 4-1 B-series header in an EF that didn't hang really low. Maybe the one you're getting is different, but I bet ground clearance will be an issue if you lower your car at all.
day
night
whatever it came outta only had damn 23,000 kms!!!!!!!!!!!!
ok, another thing...
i have had the rims for almost a year, just need some damn tires haha
and the knob i got from a friend
and my old cluster which the fuel gauge was broken off of
Here is another tip about polished headers that is directed at nobody in particular. I see it often, though. Permanent fingerprints. If you don't clean the header VERY well before you heat it up the first time, all the oils and finger prints will become cooked into the finish. As the header darkens with age, all those finger prints and oil spots become really noticeable. They are darn near impossible to get out, also. So, make sure it is oil-free before running the engine for the first time. Rubbing alcohol on a clean rag works well.
oh yeah today i should have the rest of my parts so maybe i can drop the motor in the bay sometime this weekend.....im so excited, as soon as i first drive it ill prolly go through like 20 tanks of gas haha
another thing, im sure it isnt hard to wire the LS motor all up and wire up dual to multi fuel injection, so it would be awesome if someone would help me out a bit on that....and i have the whole wire harness for the LS motor, is it junk or can i use it?
this is the BEST source i found on MPFI wiring. um, unless you want Rywire or something like that to make your harness, then your LS harness is pretty much junk. you will need the fuel injector plugs and injector resitor box.. if you do the wiring yourself.
The above is a lovefab 4-1 b-series header that is made out of heavy stainless steel. It is strong as hell. The car is an EF hatch that is lowered 1 inch. The header hugs up against the oil pan really close. It is a little difficult to tell, because the camera is below it and looking up, but it hangs low... where the rim meets the tire (205/50-15) is about how much clearance there is. I banged it on an uneven driveway and a pot hole in a parking lot... both at really low speeds. I think that because that header is sooo thick and because my car wasn't really lowered, the dents are pretty minor. I was always careful to avoid things like that, but you see the damage. Luckily, I never hit anything going down the highway.
I've seen them where the tubes get completely smashed. I've also seen pictures of cars with coilovers where they dumped the car like 3.5 inches and when they put the car back on the ground, it rested on the header lol. I've also seen people build skid plates to protect their header. If you ask me, 4-1's are way more trouble than they are worth... in an EF, anyway.
now, this picture shows a true oem 98-spec JDM ITR 4-1 header with good clearance..
Notice how the pipes are offset and nestled close? They fit together kinda like a rack of pool balls? Most 4-1 headers have the pipes stacked on top of one another... lined up vertically for less clearance.
Only the two sides and the rear.