Trunk not latching tightly

Hi all,
Just picked up a wagon and one of the things that need attention paid to is the rear hatch. When I drive there's a knocking noise and I've come to realize that it's the hatch door itself clanking up/down a bit as it's not latching tightly. The male latch part on the hatch seems to be solid and still screwed into the correct place with no play. The locking mechanism also seems solid, and when I push the lock closed and then try and wiggle it without the hatch locked in I can tell that it's solid and doesn't have any play, so I don't think it's the lock not holding tight. The seals are good so that's not an issue. The car has never been in an accident, so everything should be straight and everything looks straight but I just can't seem to figure out why it's not shutting tightly. There's only a small bit of play, maybe a 1/2" but it's enough to make a lot of annoying noise, and I wonder if it's contributing to the water collecting in my trunk area (changing gaskets now in case). I searched all over the forums but couldn't find any info pertaining to this. Anyone have any guesses as to what could be the issue? Happy to upload pics if need be. Thanks so much.

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Look to see if the plastic coating on the latch jaws is worn off. That can cause a rattle.

    Try adjusting the rubber bumpers on the hatch. The ones at the corners are spiral/ threaded sort of.

    Adjust the striker on the hatch, maybe.
  • knottyyknottyy Wagonist
    Thank you, I appreciate your input. I will try and check on all those things and report back.
  • I replaced the latch on mine cuz it was Apple coring, and it helped some, and I think the rest is actually the back seat rattling on the latches
  • knottyyknottyy Wagonist
    Ok so I tried a few thing today with varying results and wanted to share what I found. The rubber gromet around the latch lock is still there. Not sure if there is supposed to be a rubber/plastic coating on the hatch striker, but if so it's not there. What is there instead is a nice worn away nick in the striker from 23 years of use which has caused some play. I originally wasn't sure if that nick was supposed there or not to be honest as it almost looked machined. I toyed with the bump stops, and screwed them out which took care of the knocking but then added squeaking instead, plus my hatch was sticking out like a sore thumb and not even close to flush. Kept toying with the bump stops but couldn't seem to find a sweet spot. Ended up reading a comment tonight that B18C5-EH2 made about wrapping the striker in a small piece of cut BIC pen tubing, and wouldn't you know......GREAT SUCCESS!!! Screwed the bump stops all the way in and slammed hatch down.....solid as a jail cell. Took a spin around town trying to hit every bump in the road and couldn't make the trunk knock. YES! Ordering a new stiker pin because now it feels like I'm going to break my key trying to open the trunk, but so happy that it's quit knocking and driving me crazy.

    Here's a picture of the pen tube spliced onto the striker: 1080.jpg
  • FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
    good to know!!! thanks
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