Brakes dont work after replacing the lines

I replaced the front left and right brake lines on my rt and now my brakes sink all the way to the floor, ive replaced the master cylinder before and i dont think thats the problem, but im not sure.

my car hasnt ran for 4 months and i did the brakes right before i finished my swap.
im running the fake ITR front brakes , the rotors are new the pads are new and i took the car to the shop and they tried to feed me a line talking about the rear brakes need to be worked on before my front brakes will work and i KNOW THATS BULLSHIT!
becasue my rear brakes aint never worked!

long story short, what could cause my pedal to sink , the brakes worked well enough before i got new pads/rotors/lines the mechanics trying to tell me i need a bigger MC or booster to compensate and that would make sense to me if the brake setup didnt ever work before...

Comments

  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    sounds a bit fishy ...
    man i put the dual piston acura calipers on mine and didnt change a thing and i stop fine ....

    ive been told i need all kinds of stuff but it aint broke so i dont fix it ..
  • brake booster?
    bleeding the lines?
    check if rears lines are leaking?
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    yeah im pretty sure hes played me . he told me if i replace the MC/booster or any thing hell bleed the brakes again for free
  • JayTeeJayTee Wagonist
    Bleed all the lines again. You can do it yourself but its better to have a friend.
  • 90 RT4WD (Cody)90 RT4WD (Cody) Senior Wagonist
    Yeah it an take a lot more times bleeding brake lines then is thought to be needed..
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    the mechanic wasnt messing with ya u have a cross flow system. pretty much gotta bleed the right rear then the left front, then left rear then right front. don't ask me why honda did it like this....
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    turbo_teg wrote:
    the mechanic wasnt messing with ya u have a cross flow system. pretty much gotta bleed the right rear then the left front, then left rear then right front. don't ask me why honda did it like this....

    Honda did this incase one of the lines started to leak, it would leave you with some braking power instead of no braking at all.
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    after a serious inspection of the brake system we determined that they didnt even INSPECT the rear brakes what soever, and their idea of adjusting the rear brakes was making the ebrake hella tight.

    we adjusted the rear brakes and rebled the system and only a few bubbles came out and still no better response, theres a whining noise from the master cylinder and we decided the only thing it could be would be the secondary piston in the master cylinder isnt engauging enough causing a lack in pedal response, because the system still holds pressure without the car on, still very confused to as why the pedal is spongy when the cars on if theres no air int he lines.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    Maybe when u bleed it the piston that normally doesnt get compressed all the way had some gunk on it then while bleeding u got the pedal to the floor and the gunk took out a seal.... 88-98 chevy/gmc trucks like to do this so u only push the pedal about half down....
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    i think it was my remanufactured MC i dont even kno if i bench bled it the first time this new one isnt bad though. ima get it bled after work wish me luck haha
  • JayTee wrote:
    Bleed all the lines again. You can do it yourself but its better to have a friend.


    Yeah it's always better to have a friend.... to hold you beer. LOL

    Anyways yes re-bleed the brakes sound like it maybe air in the system for one. But I alway tell my customers if you can PLEASE GO WITH NEW NOT REMAN. In the passed I have had several issues with reman. BRAKE!!! it's you life we are talking about. Don't go cheap you and you family and possibly other people around you. It does make a difference
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    Yeah so I replaced the mc with a 14/16 bore from accord Lexi
    Took it back to the shop and no luck the mc increased the ability to grab the rotor but it still doesn't compare to the way the brakes felt before I used to be able to lock them up now when I slam on my brakes they barely slow the car but it's better than before im losing my patience lol
    The brakes are 93 ls rotor
    Milled bracket 94 vigor (same as accord )calipers
    Integra type r pads
    Same setup found in quick links
    The setup worked before they used to stop on a dime!
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    I just got my paycheck what's a good known brake booster / master cylinder combo? For the rt's?
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    What are symptoms of bad booster "mc or calipers I'm losing my mind
  • sorry late. have my own probs.

    from my experience-the brake booster.
  • wagoneer77wagoneer77 Band Wagon
    you can remove the brake lines from the master cylinder, cap them off with plugs then crank the car and see if you still have a soft/no pedal if so its in the master cylinder.. I HIGHLY recommend buying boosters and master cylinders from the dealer only..... just seen this from experience
    good luck
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