REAR DIFF SQUEAK???

AWD WagonAWD Wagon Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
Call out to anyone who can help. My 1991 AWD has a squeak that is only present when you are reversing . It is more noticable when I reverse to the left or right. I first thought it might be a rear drum and thus service the rear brakes. The noise/squeak is still present. It has the sound of a bushing that needs replaced. But I thought it was mostly bearings in the rear diff??? Could it just be a simple case of low rear diff fluid???

Thanks in Advance

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Check u-joints in driveline. Had a similar symptom in my suburban- only in reverse. Listen to the frequency of the noise, i.e. does it match the speed of the wheel rotation, then look at wheel ends.


    this thing does have u-joints, right? :?:
  • curtcurt Wagonist
    i have the same problem looking for an answer too.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    There are some rubber bushes limiting movement of the rear diff which appear to be mighty hard to replace.. try checking those.
  • AWD WagonAWD Wagon Wagonist
    While attempting to locate this problem, I disengaged the AWD. When I put the slightest pressure of the lock bolt on the tranny it snapped the head off. I am able to tranfer between 2wd and AWD with the 10mm middle bolt but I have no way on locking the lever in place now. Does anyone think this will be a problem???
  • AWD WagonAWD Wagon Wagonist
    Does anyone know where I can purchase the above mentioned shaft? Both U joints are seized on mine and Majestic Honda cancelled my order stating it is no longer available? Have not been able to locate any local to fix the u joints as they are not serviceable through Honda???? Any help would be greatly welcomed.

    CHEERS
  • QdogQdog New Wagonist
    Guys I have this noise...a horrible squeak that sounds like the brakes are bad coming from the rear end. The rear brakes were done a few months ago and rechecked recently by a mechanic. He says the noise is coming from the Diff. I got the diff fluid changed and the noise is still there. It is only loud in when going in reverse but now I notice it a little bit when driving forward. I dont feel and vibrations when I drive.

    *Note about the diff. I had to replace it last summer when I got my car becasue something broke inside and busted a hole in the casing. I wish I took pics of it. Anyway, it was really hard to find a replacement diff but lucky for me because of this forum a member named Absaloot sent me a spare for practically nuthing. It still cost me an arm and a leg to get it back running tho, and its been running fine until I started hearing this wierd squeaking noise.

    Does anyone have pics of the above mentioned mounts? Would I need to find hard to get replacements or lube them up somehow? Any insight would be appreciated.
  • ricefighterricefighter Wagonist
    whaaaaaa..............

    for real this thread scares me. im just scared that i might have this issues. i better change my rear diff mounts. its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard. wish i could help you out.

    wagon................................4ever.............................
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    ricefighter wrote:
    whaaaaaa..............

    its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard.


    Bad motor mounts will make the rear diff/VC clunk also. The wagon driveshafts have some play for the motor shifting but once those motor mounts give out its mostly the rear diff isolator that takes all of the torque from the motor.
  • ricefighterricefighter Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    ricefighter wrote:
    whaaaaaa..............

    its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard.


    Bad motor mounts will make the rear diff/VC clunk also. The wagon driveshafts have some play for the motor shifting but once those motor mounts give out its mostly the rear diff isolator that takes all of the torque from the motor.


    evol do you konw the part number for the rear diff mounts. thanks in advance.


    wagon ..............................4ever.......................
  • Shaun KShaun K Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    ricefighter wrote:
    whaaaaaa..............

    its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard.


    Bad motor mounts will make the rear diff/VC clunk also. The wagon driveshafts have some play for the motor shifting but once those motor mounts give out its mostly the rear diff isolator that takes all of the torque from the motor.
    Mine has the same clunk if I drop the clutch to quickly shifting 1-2, but my mounts are all new (Mugen) so I doubt that's the problem.
  • Shaun KShaun K Wagonist
    Oh yeah, and these are the part numbers. Not sure if they are all still readily available:

    50711-SH9-020 (you will need 2) RUBBER A, RR. DIFFERENTIAL INSULATOR 26.05
    50721-SH9-010 diff mount (you will need 1) RUBBER B, RR. DIFFERENTIAL INSULATOR 33.24
    50716-SH9-020 diff dampner (you will need 1) DAMPER, RR. DIFFERENTIAL 57.45
    50726-SH9-020 Dampner bracket BRACKET B, L. RR. DIFFERENTIALMOUNTING 17.62
  • JakerJaker familEE
    You guys need to make these:

    644.jpg

    And these:

    645.jpg

    646.jpg

    647.jpg

    Mounts are filled with Devcon Poly94 2 part polyurethane kit. For the diff isolator, I had to weld in a small steel plate for the bottom of the mount so I could pour the Poly in and not have it go everywhere. Sealed up one side of the mount, poured it in the other side. Filled it up flush and let it cure. I did this on a set of engine mounts for my FWD EF hatch and it worked awesome. I've now done this with the RT4WD transmission mount in the engine compartment where it attaches to the chassis by the battery as well. The other 2 mounts are Hasport D series billet aluminum replacements with the 80 durometer bushings. I think I'll be fine with only 3 mounts (no front mount to the fornt crossmember) as my engine will not be torquing front to back very much at all. The vast majority of the torquing will be from side to side.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Shaun K wrote:
    evol911 wrote:
    ricefighter wrote:
    whaaaaaa..............

    its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard.


    Bad motor mounts will make the rear diff/VC clunk also. The wagon driveshafts have some play for the motor shifting but once those motor mounts give out its mostly the rear diff isolator that takes all of the torque from the motor.
    Mine has the same clunk if I drop the clutch to quickly shifting 1-2, but my mounts are all new (Mugen) so I doubt that's the problem.

    So you're saying motor mounts won't have any effect on the rear drivetrain? Or are you saying your problem is something seperate then the motor mounts? Because I have new rear diff mounts and bad motor mounts and I get the clunk. Maybe it is either/or that can produce the clunk, maybe its bad u-jonts, maybe its a bad VC, maybe its bad wheel bearings.....
  • Shaun KShaun K Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    Shaun K wrote:
    evol911 wrote:
    ricefighter wrote:
    whaaaaaa..............

    its makes a "thug" sound evrytime i release my clutch pedal hard.


    Bad motor mounts will make the rear diff/VC clunk also. The wagon driveshafts have some play for the motor shifting but once those motor mounts give out its mostly the rear diff isolator that takes all of the torque from the motor.
    Mine has the same clunk if I drop the clutch to quickly shifting 1-2, but my mounts are all new (Mugen) so I doubt that's the problem.

    So you're saying motor mounts won't have any effect on the rear drivetrain? Or are you saying your problem is something seperate then the motor mounts? Because I have new rear diff mounts and bad motor mounts and I get the clunk. Maybe it is either/or that can produce the clunk, maybe its bad u-jonts, maybe its a bad VC, maybe its bad wheel bearings.....
    I'm saying my problem must be different since I already replaced my mounts. Not sure my problem is the diff mounts either.
  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    Jaker wrote:
    You guys need to make these:

    644.jpg

    And these:

    645.jpg

    646.jpg

    647.jpg

    Mounts are filled with Devcon Poly94 2 part polyurethane kit. For the diff isolator, I had to weld in a small steel plate for the bottom of the mount so I could pour the Poly in and not have it go everywhere. Sealed up one side of the mount, poured it in the other side. Filled it up flush and let it cure. I did this on a set of engine mounts for my FWD EF hatch and it worked awesome. I've now done this with the RT4WD transmission mount in the engine compartment where it attaches to the chassis by the battery as well. The other 2 mounts are Hasport D series billet aluminum replacements with the 80 durometer bushings. I think I'll be fine with only 3 mounts (no front mount to the fornt crossmember) as my engine will not be torquing front to back very much at all. The vast majority of the torquing will be from side to side.

    any more tips on how to do this? I really want to try this... how much did the Devcon cost?
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