No start :/

The previous owner of my car said that there is a newer head on the car, and when I put it on today I realized I didn't keep the old spark plugs. The ones I got for the original d15 didn't connect with the spark plug wires. How can I find out what plugs to use for the head I have?

Thanks

Comments

  • driftin90driftin90 Senior Wagonist
    i thought all honda plugs were the same size and shape? i guess depending on which head you have, you can cross reference at ngk.com. i just run the v-powers part#4644 or bkre7e, they're cheap and i replace them every couple of months. but without knowing what head you have, nobody is going to be able to help ya. post up any casting numbers or codes on the head.
  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    ^ Im curious, why do you replace them every couple months?

    Ones in my ITR have been in there for at least 5years, could even be original and there is nothing wrong with them.
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    usually people swap plugs and wires every 60k....but thats just because they want to....the will last you a good 90-100k easy before you will start to see problems.
  • driftin90driftin90 Senior Wagonist
    NZ-DB8R wrote:
    ^ Im curious, why do you replace them every couple months?

    Ones in my ITR have been in there for at least 5years, could even be original and there is nothing wrong with them.

    there just cheap ngk copper plugs. figure they're good for 10k. but my car is always happy with a new set of plugs. so why not? i also change my trans fluid every other oil change. call it ocd, i guess.
  • driftin90 wrote:
    i thought all honda plugs were the same size and shape? i guess depending on which head you have, you can cross reference at ngk.com. i just run the v-powers part#4644 or bkre7e, they're cheap and i replace them every couple of months. but without knowing what head you have, nobody is going to be able to help ya. post up any casting numbers or codes on the head.


    That would make sense to post up what kind of head it is lol, I made a post on d-series.org and they think its a y7 head. I know it's possible to do this, but I think my engine is still dpfi. From what I've read that is a pretty useless swap without converting to mpfi, because there would be no gain. I'm just going to assume that the original head went bad somehow and the PO put this on because he had it or got it for cheap. Here are the casting numbers on the head: P2F-7, B2E-HA-7, D7B05124BD. There were also four circles with two numbers on each which were from left to right: 02, 24, 01, 97.

    I have a problem with the engine. I got the head back from the machine shop for replacing two bent valves. I got everything put back together exactly the way it came off. The timing is correct and the wires are connected correctly I believe (on the head 4-3-2-1, and distributor:
    3-4
    1-2)

    On the other site they think that the distributor is off by 180*, which is making it not start. But the rotor on the dizzy has the number 1 for cyl1 up, which it should be when at TDC. Do I need to take the rotor off and rotate it 180* and install it back on the dizzy then rotate the dizzy 180* and install again?

    Thanks guys
  • driftin90driftin90 Senior Wagonist
    rotor only goes on one way. the distributor can be off 180.
  • driftin90 wrote:
    rotor only goes on one way. the distributor can be off 180.


    If my distributor is off by 180, that would have the rotor with the 1 pointing down, will that still be correct?
  • alright so I turned the dizzy 180* and tried to insert it, it went into the slot but would not sit flush no matter how many times I turned it and tried to get it to work. So, that isn't the problem. I tried to turn it over again and it just kept turning but no start. I'm going to change the spark plugs to y7 plugs to see if that changes anything. Any other suggestions of what it could be?

    EDIT: Spark plugs are the same, so that is not it. I tried it again after putting the plugs in, and it kinda tries to start like spitting and sputtering but never a start, the key has to be constantly turned. I don't know what else to check since it isn't the plugs, it is getting gas, and the distributor is fairly new so that should be fine. PLEASE HELP! I really need the car to be running, what else can I check?
  • Post yr, make and model. Check for bent pins and the distributor connector. Was it running b4 u got it? R U positive you have spark, fuel, injector pulse and good compression?
  • Post yr, make and model. Check for bent pins and the distributor connector. Was it running b4 u got it? R U positive you have spark, fuel, injector pulse and good compression?

    Yes, it was running before I took it apart. I don't know if I have good compression because I don't have a tester, and how would I check for spark and fuel?
  • Checked the valve clearance and could possibly have two wrong valves installed. But that shouldn't cause the engine to not start since it had two bad valves before and it still started fine but ran horribly. It is getting fuel I know that, so what else is there to check? The distributor is fairly new, so I don't believe that is the problem. The only other thing I can think it could be would be the spark plugs because other than gaskets those are the only things that were changed. When trying to plug the wires onto the plugs, they wont seat when the plugs are in the head, when they are off, they seat fine. Any help?
  • So, another update. I thought about this for a while after it not starting, and the two valves I had replaced were for the wrong head. Here are some pictures of what I mean.

    As you can tell, the valve on the right is taller than the one on the left. The two bad ones is the right exhaust valve on the number 1 cylinder and the right exhaust valve on the number 3 cylinder

    488.jpg

    489.jpg

    And it's a good thing my roommate is on spring break haha

    490.jpg

    491.jpg

    Sorry the pictures are so blurry lol
  • So I have it back together, but it still wont start. I am going to mess with the timing more tomorrow. If anyone has any more suggestions please let me know
  • Have you done a compression test?
  • It runs now. I changed the plug wires and fired right up. The only thing now is the timing belt is loose. I think it got stretched out somehow, and I already purchased one, so I will be changing that next week and hopefully we will be good to go!
  • luis808luis808 Wagonist
    WOW. I am assuming the old plus must have had a break in connection.
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