RT4wd manual tranny rough shifts when warm. I've got ?'s

FSC4wdFSC4wd familEE
in Engine & Drivetrain
Hi everybody, I'm back with more questions. This time it's shifting that's the problem. When the car is off I can shift through the gears fine. When I've driven the car for awhile it starts to stiffen up where I have to jam it into gear(no grinds).
So I read through what I could find already posted. Most seem to think this is either clutch cable adjustment, tranny fluid, pedal assembly, or clutch cable bracket failure. I've checked the cable, bracket, and pedal assembly, they look fine. So I'm going to start by changing the tranny fluid, and can't locate the, "level bolt" as apposed to the, "drain bolt".
Help would be nice. Also if anybody has any other ideas, I'm listening(reading, you know what I mean).

Comments

  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    I have heard of non-Honda MTF glazing the gears but I guess that would only happen if you were racing?

    I only use Honda MTF.

    viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4949
  • FSC4wdFSC4wd familEE
    Thanks Haydz, I understand which fluid to use. I'm trying to figure out how to check the levels and refill. Chilton manuals suck for beginners.
  • I <3 HatersI <3 Haters Wagonist
    the manual should tell you how much it takes. Take the plug out of the side next to the axle hole and fill it untill the fluid runs out the hole your filling it through.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Passenger side of the trans., just behind and level with the CV axle. 17mm hex plug.
  • FSC4wdFSC4wd familEE
    Thanks all, So just the one plug. The Chilton makes it sound like there's two different bolts. One other thing, adjusting the clutch cable is it like a bike break, out to tighten in to loosen?
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    There should be two separate plugs on the transmission, you are correct there. The lower plug is the drain plug, it doesn't have a hex head, it's got a 3/8" drive recess in it. Slide a 3/8" breaker bar in it, or use a 1/2" bar with a 3/8" reducer, and remove it just like a normal bolt. Drain, then replace the plug. If you remove the upper plug as well, it will help drain the fluid faster.

    The upper plug is the 17mm hex bolt, that's the filler plug. Get yourself a funnel with a long rubber tube and place the funnel somewhere on the top side of the engine, near the throttle body area. Snake the tube down and feed it right into the filler hole. Don't cram it to far in there, or it will rest against the internals, and block the flow, and take FOREVER to fill!

    EDIT: just found my Haynes manual, it says the RT uses 2.4 quarts. Maybe less, if there is still old fluid in there. Give it about 2 quarts, then add slowly until it starts to run out of the filler hole. On at least one occasion, I've had the funnel tube situated in such a manner that it somehow blocked the whole filler hole. When I pulled it out, i had overfilled it by a lot, so it just pissed out extra fluid for a minute...

    Probably a good idea to keep the drain pan under there while you fill.

    I just noticed that the link that Haydz posted has a few pics and tons of useful info, including pretty much everything i just said.

    Anyway, use Honda MTF, its like $7.50(US) a quart at the dealership where i live, which is a little pricey, but worth it.
  • FSC4wdFSC4wd familEE
    Thanks. Been sick, just got back on the wago mission.
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