CEL 1,4,10

BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
Well it threw a CEL today, doing 75 it bogged down a little, pushed in the clutch and glided about 1/8 mile then applied minimal throttle for the last 1/8 till i pulled over. opened the hood, it was idling smooth but had a different sound toward the driver side part of the eng. Checked codes and got #1 O2 sensor, #4 crank sensor, #10 intake air temp. shut the car down, started it back up ran just fine. no noticeable power loss. it was between -4 and -8 deg out.

Got home and started doing some research and come to the conclusion that my dizzy is done for, most likely the bearing failed. This forum has said that it could make the timing jump, my concern is i have bent valves due to the timing jumping, could this be, but with no loss of power? i plan on doing a compression test on it to verify. just worrisome due to being 300 miles from home and no garage to put the car in to fix while i'm on vacation for the next week.

all help and experience is appreciated!

bowz

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    All 3 codes at the same time, then just cleared up when you cycled the key? Sounds more like a sensor supply voltage or grounding problem.

    I will agree that if you have any doubt about the condition or age of your distributor it's a good idea to replace it- especially if your walk home is 300 miles and 8 below zero!

    edit: On thinking back a little, my wagon had a similar problem. I'd get a check engine light, sometimes with power loss sometimes not. Code was always o2 sensor. Distributor ended up fixing it.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    As to timing jumping, I don't think so. You would definitely see a loss of power.
  • 88loganm88loganm Band Wagon
    on high mileage Honda the distributor bearing is known to seize up. With driving short distance its not as likely to pop up on you, but with you driving a longer distance on vacation will cause a suspect bearing to fail. Did you notice any rattling or maybe fluttering in the tachometer, this may be a failing water pump which has been known to change your timing. As for the three codes, do they share the same signal voltage and ground, because I would agree with the above comment.
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    Bam-bam, yes all three codes were after the CEL poped. Yes I have doubt on the condition of the dizzy, it has always been loud, when I got the car I put a new cap on and it chewed the points up almost instantly, I think I might have been rocking a bad bearing for 12+k miles.

    88loganm, yes when I'm above 3k my tach will flutter every few seconds, was doing that before I threw the CEL. As for the long trip, I make a 600mile round trip almost every weekend, but then I'm only going 60-65. I've put around 12k on it in the past 6months comuting from my job back home every weekend I have off.

    Bowz
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    I picked up a oreilly dizzy yesterday. I also started the car and can't hear any metallic sound. Did however notice alot of pressure (blow-by) coming out of the oil filler cap. Maybe 212k translates into a bottom end rebuild. Hope it can wait till after Alaska decides to warm up from neg degree weather and I can pull the engine outside. As far a the common ground, I will see if I can find where that is and clean it up

    As the plan for today is, I'm going to check compression in each cyl. Not sure what it should be, I'll look it up in the Honda manual. Put the new dizzy, cap, and rotor on.

    Thinking out loud. If they are all low, then it would mean that the rings are bad, and/or valve seats are bad. When I did the top end they only regrinded a few seats. Would hope they would still be good. I also read on here that the spread between cylinders should be less than 28psi?

    Thanks again guys for the words of wisdom!!!

    Bowz
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    well its neg 10 deg outside so...not checking the compression, i did however pull the dizzy and yes the bearing is bad. sucks that O'reilly sold me the wrong one, it was a mixed boxed or something, got one on the way next day air from portland. we will see...
    eng running
    http://youtu.be/Fo9tdWVoDns

    bad bearing
    http://youtu.be/tCAddRowW0k

    any more input?

    bowz
  • mtbikerTimtbikerTi Band Wagon
    Keep the ignitor out of your old distributor, I went through 3 distributors from Advance Auto before I just went and bought an ignitor from Honda. The reman distributors would work great for a month or so, and then the car would die...
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    Okay, I don't have to return my old one, but I don't know which is the igniter. The igniter is one of thows known problems with these cars. It would cause the car to die, then need to cool down before the car would start? I might be way off. Thanks for the help!!

    Bowz
  • mtbikerTimtbikerTi Band Wagon
    Check this link for some more info on the main causes of these cars not running/starting:

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    That is a great web page, can't belive i havn't stumbled accross that one before!

    well tonight I put in the new dizzy, so far so good, goign to carry the old one for a just incase.
    http://youtu.be/2qQpP9pHpbA

    Took it out for a test drive before i timed it, here is a little vid. (correction it was -10 out when i installed it outside.)
    http://youtu.be/IFaCCJm1mx0

    thanks guys!

    bowz
  • BOWZBOWZ New Wagonist
    and the valves sound good, haven't done the compression test yet, hopefully when i get back home.

    bowz
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