Has anyone used rust converter before?

Comments

• oxblood Band Wagon

  November 2011

  i've used it on a lot of farm equipment. rustame or ospho i believe are the name brands. great stuff, changes rust into almost a plasticy consistency. i don't know how good it would work on any body work though, as it doesn't leave a very smooth finish (maybe you could sand and recoat several times, never tried that).
• dukevonDANK Wagonist

  December 2011

  Use a wire wheel, or any of those drill mounted abrasive pads and grind out as much rust as possible, then go with the rust converter.
  
  But ultimately your car will rust again, so you may wanna go to harbor freight and pick up an $80 flux core welder, then go to home depot or lowes and get lincoln flux core wire...the HF stuff throws slag everywhere, and you end up grinding more than you weld, and you will be covered in burns.
  
  Do it!
• shadowless_nite New Wagonist

  December 2011

  wire wheel or 60 grit flap on a harbor freight 15.00 4.5in sander to remove rust and rustoleum etching primer instead of the converter. Etching primer is better for direct metal. And rustoleum does a good job at sealing it off. Everyone will always say " weld it... blah blah" but fact of the matter is chances are you will get rid of the car before a good repair job that used can primer will wear out IF done right.
  
  the key to a quality primer/paint job that most people mess up on is that primer should not be exposed to weather for extended amounts of time, like when projects are in limbo. primer needs to be sealed properly to be exposed for periods of time or painted over. If you simply use regular primer and drive around in wet weather it will rust under neath through the primer even if you cant see it. oh and save your elbow and buy quality light weight filler that can also be used as a glazing putty.
• wag-oh-vandrew New Wagonist

  December 2011

  Thanks for the advice, and yeah I knew the whol primer absorbs moisture thing which is why I wanted to get my ducks In a row before I start getting down to the dirty business.
• CIVEIL New Wagonist

  December 2011

  Use for temporary fix to stop the rust from spreading at a faster rate of speed. Rust comes from oxidization, oxygen and the iron in steel chemically react because oxygen is a volatile compound. The rust converter temporarily stops or slows the process of iron from being exposed to oxygen where paint cant protect it. However, the rust will always spread because there is already oxygen in the rusted metal and the stop rust just limits the amount of oxygen being exposed to the iron. Only way to really stop it is to remove the rust, prep and paint.
• Steve-Oh3 Band Wagon

  December 2011

  from my experience try por-15. i do alot of panel replacements on restorations and we will use it on inner panels(behind rockers and quarters,etc., after they are blasted to prevent rust in the future.it holds up really well and is sooo easy to apply because its brushable. ive always had good luck with their products, just tried some of their gas tank sealer and if u prep it right i swear it turns out looking new!
• philkmil New Wagonist

  January 2012

  I have used rust converter before, but have had much better success with a wire wheel on a 4.5 inch grinder (as someone else suggested). Even hand sanding with some wet-dry sander paper is a good place to start if the rust isn't to deep. If the rust is deep then the por15 or a similar product I have used called "zero rust" would probably be your best bet on a budget (after sanding or using a wire brush to knock of as much rust as possible). I have done a fair amount of mig welding on my 53 Chevy Suburban, and I can tell you that welding sheet medal as thin as on these civics would be very difficult to do without warping the metal. I would sand the area as best as possible and then try an rust encapsulator (like por 15).