1991 Wagon 4WD Distributor Cap Rotor SCREW falling out...

funkstamarifunkstamari Band Wagon
in Engine & Drivetrain
Howdy all.
I've got a 1991 wagon 4wd. it's got about 170k on it and purrs. Back in May I made a drive of about 800miles after already having the car for 10k(and running fine). I broke down on the road and found it was my distributor cap rotor that was the problem. More specifically, the screw holding the rotor to the engine fell out/broke off. I replaced the entire rotor and screw and the problem was solved until about a month ago on a short drive. It happened again. I sent it to a mechanic since I had no time to worry about it and he discovered the same problem of course. This time, he replaced the whole thing+screw and also dipped the screw in locktite to keep it stuck in there. I picked it up and drove about 50mi before it popped right out again! Took the cap off, and screwed it back in and took it to a safe place.
not sure how to solve this.... is it just a problem with the screw or is there some larger problem causing the screw to wiggle out frequently? any ideas or experience would help a lot, as this is a pretty small/hard place to work on if this is going to be a frequent problem....

Thanks!

Comments

  • ppruepprue Wagonist
    I had a problem where I bought an aftermarket rotor and the screw that came with it wouldn't thread into the hole. I went to the dealership and bought an OEM rotor from Honda and that set screw also wouldn't thread into the hole.[Both too big] I got my own screw and screwed it in and its worked fine for a year or so, still working to this day.
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    mine fell out a few months back..
    guys from the ecefc helped me figure out what was wrong and said its a known issue .. :roll:
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    I've had this happen several times on several of my Civics. Honda f****d up when they reinvented the distributor shaft/rotor. Why couldn't it be a shaft with a keyway and rotor with molded in key and flat spring to keep it on like everybody else? The stock rotors come with a socket head (allen) cap screw, but most of the aftermarket stuff comes with a phillips head screw. The allen head is much easier to install because it will stay on the allen wrench while you stick it in place. It is also easier to get it adequately tight, the angle of approach makes tightening the phillips screw very difficult. Regarding the screw size, after some research I found out that it is an M3.5 X.8, a very non-standard metric thread. Fortunately for me, this is a very common screw in computers, which I repair. Several times I have lost the screw when I opened the distributor on the side of the road after the car died. Instead of crawling around looking for it, I just got into my parts bin and pulled out another. Further study (while standing in the Orchard Supply fastener aisle) revealed that this is actually a #6-32 thread with the dimensions converted to metric! I now buy #6-32 socket head cap screws at OSH and use a drop of Loctite to ensure that they don't come out.
    Also, note that the hole in the shaft is not tapped all the way thru, so the right screw won't start from the wrong side.

    Craig
  • rbwdrivenrbwdriven Senior Wagonist
    I just usually do it the easy way.

    A 1 drop of blue loctite to the screw threads.

    Tends to help out.

    Don't Use red or you will never get if off.
  • beastmodebeastmode Senior Wagonist
    yup loctite
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    rbwdriven wrote:
    I just usually do it the easy way.

    A 1 drop of blue loctite to the screw threads.

    Tends to help out.

    Don't Use red or you will never get if off.


    x2.... Never forget the first time an EF left me on the side of the road many years ago because of that f***** screw.
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