Road mapped it, Mainly the fuel tables and a touch on ignition. No figures yet, Dyno in a few weeks time once everything is sorted on the shuttle. Still need to plumb in the chargecooler and Pre-rad, aswell as finalise the intake setup.
Had a little scare last night, after a bit of 2 Step, it started running on 3 cylinders. Limped it home...
Had fuel, so deffo ignition related. Low and behold, cylinder 2 was saturated in fuel! Cleaned all the plugs up and shes running on 4 again. Going to take it steady for the rest of the week. Boost is fun, But it aint Dyno mapped yet.
Anyways, Finally managed to sort the catch tank out, Got the PCV at the rear of the block into the catch tank (as the JRSC doesnt have provitions for a PCV Valve) It currently Vents to Atmosphere via the tank, but will most likely have this re-circulate back into the intake tube.
How the engine bay currently stands.
Bit messy. I don't like it! cant wait to give the engine bay a nice tuck over the winter if i can find the right place to do it! The entire wiring loom is a mess and is majorly in the way of EVERYTHING!
Oil filter is temp. Looking to run a 3" pipe, with Blox Velocity Stack.
Waiting on the Stainless hose to finish the charge cooling system off. I had intended to mount the pump, pre-rad and reservoir bottle today, But out great british weather had other plans. And having no In-doors area to do all this is a pain!
So, Weather Aside. I needed to mount my LM-1 In a nice position, as it has just been resting on the passengers seat, which means i cant really keep an eye on it, Innovate want £60 for the proper mount! F-That! B&Q, £2, DONE! The mount is is even in a rather fetching Brown! It now slips in between the top of the center console and the center vents/clocks (So it can be adjusted for Driver or Passengers view with ease. Also removed from view)
I also wanted some control on temp recovery for the charge cooling system. Althought im told the cooler is very efficient, and the temps recover rather quickly as speed. I decided i wanted to look into some static cooling for track days. Unfortunatly, couldnt find ANY fans small enough. and when i did find some fans small enough, the depth was to big.
So after hours of researching and a suggestion. Aprilia RSV Motorbike Fans are PERFECT! The bonus is, hey are Made by Spal and are weather proof. Got these 2 fans for £20 Delivered. Just need a 3rd one now since there is room!
King of DIY and Re-using parts off other cars to great success 8)
Idea is, to have a fan over ride switch for static cooling (I will also fit another one of these fans on the Oil cooler when i purchase and install one). Main purpose is for track day temp recovery once static in the pits between sessions. It should work fairly well!
it looks like you arent draining back your catch can. how full does it get how fast? when my old ZC was nearing the end of its life it was all in the valve seals. that thing ate a quart a tank.
Well. God knows what's up with it. I'm guessing we have seen a slight bit of DET and its done some Damage. But what? We arnt sure.
Showing excellent compression across all 4 cylinders, Which rules out rings and ringlands, But shes burning ALOT of oil
Checked the PCV System, and its all good, No blockages and all the pipes are free and flowing. So. Fuck knows what to check next...
Anyway, Cracked on with the Charge cooling system today, mounted the pre-rad first.
Drilled 2 holes in the lower slam panel, used some M6 threaded rod and a 10mm nut, using some rubber hose i made some takes which fit quite nicely in the holes i drilled.
Had to cut this off.
Made a bracket for the centre top mount on the rad, as the t-bar isnt central.
All mounted
There is about 5mm clearance between the fans and the main rad, So all is gravy. There is room for a 3rd fan aswell. Excellent!
Finally got the charge cooler finished. Was waiting on a silicon bend, which they sent me wrong TWICE! So i just made do with it and stepped it down with some fuel hose. works fine.
All bled up with some fresh Antifreeze Mix. Got the pump wired into to the ignition and pumps constantly when the engine is turned on
Found one of the coolant lines for the chargecooler had been leaking. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu
Head off!
Cleaned the bores and pistons looking for signs of DET of anything unusual.
Cant see anything The bores are fine, no marks or anything!
Lets look at the head, Exh ports.
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3 looks suspect - But i already know that, as its Cylinder 3 that wasnt firing
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 1
So, not sure where to go now Not sure weather to wack a different Head on and run it NASP and see how we get on, Or take the engine out and drop the pistons for inspection.
Debts finally paid off. I can not start looking at getting the beast running again :drivegear:
Went down the other day, Pulled up and chair and just looked at it for an Hour and just brain stormed.
After alot of research today i discovered my current charge cooling set-up is in-efficient. It works...But it can be made alot more efficient. Need to run the system clockwise, running inlet to the cool side. This means rotating the charge pump 90 degrees and having 2 an12 fittings welded onto the Pre-Rad, aswell as mounting a swirlpot reservoir on the bulkhead at the highest point, Then monitoring coolant pressure and temperature.
Also disected the charger to inspect the chargecore
Lots of fabrication to be done to get the system the way i want it, But will all be worth it
Well time has come. an unfortunate deadline means i now need to get this thing running and on the road quicker than i wanted to...
But my 1st Deadline is 4GUK's Dyno Day in March, 2nd Deadline is Saturday 25th - Which is Time Attack at Cadwell...
I've kept it under wraps for a few months, but ever since Time Attack announced a "Pocket Rocket" Class - Pretty much a "Run what ya Brung" Time attack class - I knew this would be the wagons new form....
However, Cadwell being my local circuit, Time attack usually doesn't come here until July/August time (Which was my original deadline), So with that being pushed forward a few months...Time to blow the cobwebs out.
Progress was halted on few months ago as i waited for the wagons new home to be ready. So the day came she needed to move...
Beater wagon towing all the Wagon Attacks bits to the new home.
Alot more light and space than the old unit.
and some nice work space aswell.
Some of you may know i went to Florida few weeks ago. I seized the opportunity to get some goodies without getting ripped off. Brand new ARP's for £68 Delivered? Awww Yisss!
ARPS - £68
Clear Dizzy Cap - £15
OEM Honda D16y8 Gasket = £27 (£54 over here!!!)
VMS Adjustable Gear - £35
Woodruff Key - £3
FRAM Oil Filter key to fit HAMP Shorties - £2
OEM Stem Seals - £41 (Tegiwa...)
So....
She didn't run to well the first time i struck her up, someone suggested trying a different dizzy, after fitting a spare one i had, she ran a little bit better, but still not satisfactory. But with no water in the engine, it was hard to really diagnose any issues.
So i topped her up with water. she ran rough for 10-15 seconds then purred like a kitten!
Excuse the mess...
So after running her up to temp. i let her stuck ticking away for 30 minutes. was very happy! so. Couldnt resist...
Taking her for a spin!
Good news is. she runs good. Bad news is. It still puffs like a train in Boost. Fairly in-conclusive results. Cannot tell if its Fuel or Oil....
But on with the progress. Start tearing her down...
all went well till i got to a stubborn Hub Nut...But she came off with a rather awesome impact gun i borrowed.
Before i took the alternator out. i marked where i want the chassis leg notching for clearence. there is roughly 2-3mm between the left side of the pulley on the leg. It clears enough to get a belt on. But little to close for my liking. plus i've made a right mess with the hammer. So it needs tidying up ideally.
And here she stands as of current.
Engine will be out next week. Then a few days prepping the engine bay ready to go for welding and painting directly after the new year. I want this finished (Engine bay wise...) By the end of February. Taxed and Tested for March for 4GUK's Dyno Day.
Comments
Just found them! aha weird that they actually say to hit the frame! Needless to say...
Sorted.
I like.
http://instagram.com/p/fVnyfRIqb9/#
http://instagram.com/p/fVu2PGoqWe/#
http://instagram.com/p/fVvRelIqXH/#
7psi is fun 8)
Heres a cheeky vid from this morning.
http://instagram.com/p/fXFSk-Iqcw/#
Had fuel, so deffo ignition related. Low and behold, cylinder 2 was saturated in fuel! Cleaned all the plugs up and shes running on 4 again. Going to take it steady for the rest of the week. Boost is fun, But it aint Dyno mapped yet.
Anyways, Finally managed to sort the catch tank out, Got the PCV at the rear of the block into the catch tank (as the JRSC doesnt have provitions for a PCV Valve) It currently Vents to Atmosphere via the tank, but will most likely have this re-circulate back into the intake tube.
How the engine bay currently stands.
Bit messy. I don't like it! cant wait to give the engine bay a nice tuck over the winter if i can find the right place to do it! The entire wiring loom is a mess and is majorly in the way of EVERYTHING!
Oil filter is temp. Looking to run a 3" pipe, with Blox Velocity Stack.
Waiting on the Stainless hose to finish the charge cooling system off. I had intended to mount the pump, pre-rad and reservoir bottle today, But out great british weather had other plans. And having no In-doors area to do all this is a pain!
So, Weather Aside. I needed to mount my LM-1 In a nice position, as it has just been resting on the passengers seat, which means i cant really keep an eye on it, Innovate want £60 for the proper mount! F-That! B&Q, £2, DONE! The mount is is even in a rather fetching Brown! It now slips in between the top of the center console and the center vents/clocks (So it can be adjusted for Driver or Passengers view with ease. Also removed from view)
I also wanted some control on temp recovery for the charge cooling system. Althought im told the cooler is very efficient, and the temps recover rather quickly as speed. I decided i wanted to look into some static cooling for track days. Unfortunatly, couldnt find ANY fans small enough. and when i did find some fans small enough, the depth was to big.
So after hours of researching and a suggestion. Aprilia RSV Motorbike Fans are PERFECT! The bonus is, hey are Made by Spal and are weather proof. Got these 2 fans for £20 Delivered. Just need a 3rd one now since there is room!
King of DIY and Re-using parts off other cars to great success 8)
Idea is, to have a fan over ride switch for static cooling (I will also fit another one of these fans on the Oil cooler when i purchase and install one). Main purpose is for track day temp recovery once static in the pits between sessions. It should work fairly well!
Good compression across all 4 cylinders (200psi per cylinder). Which means the Ringlands are still intact.
At a loss
Showing excellent compression across all 4 cylinders, Which rules out rings and ringlands, But shes burning ALOT of oil
Checked the PCV System, and its all good, No blockages and all the pipes are free and flowing. So. Fuck knows what to check next...
Anyway, Cracked on with the Charge cooling system today, mounted the pre-rad first.
Drilled 2 holes in the lower slam panel, used some M6 threaded rod and a 10mm nut, using some rubber hose i made some takes which fit quite nicely in the holes i drilled.
Had to cut this off.
Made a bracket for the centre top mount on the rad, as the t-bar isnt central.
All mounted
There is about 5mm clearance between the fans and the main rad, So all is gravy. There is room for a 3rd fan aswell. Excellent!
Reservoir mounted. Couldnt find a suitable place to put it, so just Teed into the main return hose to the pump
Nearly done!
Mis placed the last silicon reducer i needed to finish it! Will have to wait till next weekend now
All bled up with some fresh Antifreeze Mix. Got the pump wired into to the ignition and pumps constantly when the engine is turned on
Got my gauges and interior all back together.
Next step, Dyno and mapping...
Cannot wait for the dyno results!
Found one of the coolant lines for the chargecooler had been leaking. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu
Head off!
Cleaned the bores and pistons looking for signs of DET of anything unusual.
Cant see anything
Lets look at the head, Exh ports.
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3 looks suspect - But i already know that, as its Cylinder 3 that wasnt firing
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 1
So, not sure where to go now
Lost
Went down the other day, Pulled up and chair and just looked at it for an Hour and just brain stormed.
After alot of research today i discovered my current charge cooling set-up is in-efficient. It works...But it can be made alot more efficient. Need to run the system clockwise, running inlet to the cool side. This means rotating the charge pump 90 degrees and having 2 an12 fittings welded onto the Pre-Rad, aswell as mounting a swirlpot reservoir on the bulkhead at the highest point, Then monitoring coolant pressure and temperature.
Also disected the charger to inspect the chargecore
Lots of fabrication to be done to get the system the way i want it, But will all be worth it
All neatly put away ready ready for clean and rebuild.
Head will be going off Mid-weed to be hot-tanked and skimmed.
But my 1st Deadline is 4GUK's Dyno Day in March, 2nd Deadline is Saturday 25th - Which is Time Attack at Cadwell...
I've kept it under wraps for a few months, but ever since Time Attack announced a "Pocket Rocket" Class - Pretty much a "Run what ya Brung" Time attack class - I knew this would be the wagons new form....
However, Cadwell being my local circuit, Time attack usually doesn't come here until July/August time (Which was my original deadline), So with that being pushed forward a few months...Time to blow the cobwebs out.
Progress was halted on few months ago as i waited for the wagons new home to be ready. So the day came she needed to move...
Beater wagon towing all the Wagon Attacks bits to the new home.
Alot more light and space than the old unit.
and some nice work space aswell.
Some of you may know i went to Florida few weeks ago. I seized the opportunity to get some goodies without getting ripped off. Brand new ARP's for £68 Delivered? Awww Yisss!
ARPS - £68
Clear Dizzy Cap - £15
OEM Honda D16y8 Gasket = £27 (£54 over here!!!)
VMS Adjustable Gear - £35
Woodruff Key - £3
FRAM Oil Filter key to fit HAMP Shorties - £2
OEM Stem Seals - £41 (Tegiwa...)
So expect some heavy progress soon....
It cleaned the pretty well. It missed some thick carbon buildup in the ports.
The carbon buildup was roughly 1mm thick! that will let it breath a bit easier
Cleaned all the valves before installation and lapping.
So, Its been cleaned, skimmed, new OEM Stem seals, Valves Re-Seated and clearences adjusted.
Whens it going on? Next weekend....
She didn't run to well the first time i struck her up, someone suggested trying a different dizzy, after fitting a spare one i had, she ran a little bit better, but still not satisfactory. But with no water in the engine, it was hard to really diagnose any issues.
So i topped her up with water. she ran rough for 10-15 seconds then purred like a kitten!
Excuse the mess...
So after running her up to temp. i let her stuck ticking away for 30 minutes. was very happy! so. Couldnt resist...
Taking her for a spin!
Good news is. she runs good. Bad news is. It still puffs like a train in Boost. Fairly in-conclusive results. Cannot tell if its Fuel or Oil....
But on with the progress. Start tearing her down...
all went well till i got to a stubborn Hub Nut...But she came off with a rather awesome impact gun i borrowed.
Before i took the alternator out. i marked where i want the chassis leg notching for clearence. there is roughly 2-3mm between the left side of the pulley on the leg. It clears enough to get a belt on. But little to close for my liking. plus i've made a right mess with the hammer. So it needs tidying up ideally.
And here she stands as of current.
Engine will be out next week. Then a few days prepping the engine bay ready to go for welding and painting directly after the new year. I want this finished (Engine bay wise...) By the end of February. Taxed and Tested for March for 4GUK's Dyno Day.