Got up early, and got the shuttle in the air to bleed all the brakes.
Used a Brake bleeder which you attach to an airline, and it does all the hard work for you!
sucked the old fluid out the reservoir using a syringe, and filled it with fresh ATE Super Blue
I bled each nipple for approx 10 minutes. Did the rears twice, and both front calipers 4 times per side.
Whilst the bleeder was hard at work, i cracked the grinder out and shaved the carrier a bit for extra clearence.
Then gave the caliper a quick lick of paint.
Took it for a test drive, and VERY weird to drive, car was all over the place, and pulled REAL hard to the left when accelerating.
So, took it my mate, Adam, and it had it lazer alligned. Both front wheels with 5 degrees toe IN :shock: No wonder it was special to drive...
Whilst i was there, One of my Parada's had started to show the cords on the passenger front. Which is a shame, as i had planned to kill this on tuesday at Cadwell Park. So, Adam did me an awesome deal on some used Toyo T1R Proxes, Both with a good 3mm of tread for £20 fitted and balanced. Couldnt say no...
So, i know have 2 Decent Paradas on the front (with approx 2mm of tread each) and 2 Proxes on the rear (3mm Each) Should do me well for the track day!
It now drives spot on! doesnt pull or anything now. Happy with that!
Now, the brakes work, and are fine. However, the pedal doesnt really bit until about 1/2 travel, so i think a bigger Master Cylinder will benefit the system, but isnt a requirement. I do have a 15/16 master Cylinder off a VT, which is a direct replacement (Both on the servo and Brake pipes). Or its stick a 1" MC in, But this means removal of the old servo and 2 new brake lines made up, Aswell as Rebleeding the entire system.
Shuttle has developed a knock on the passengers front. Checked every nut and bolt 3 times now, and the noise is still there.
So i checked the Radios arms, the drivers had some play, but the passengers had a lot more play than the drivers. So called every motor factor, Cant get pattern parts, Fuck...
So, Luckily...I had a set of radios arms from an old civic i stripped. LUCKILY, they had bushes in a lot better condition.
New on the left, old on the right.
All back together, took it for a run. knocking is still there. FUUUUUUUUUUCK sake!!!!
I'm lost now, The only thing i have changed is the drive shaft. But, its not a drive shaft noise. It doesn't knock all the time, noticeably more on rough road.
At a loss Going to take the hub assembly off tomorrow and still it back on and check everything for play.
Hey ho....
Sorted the panel gap between the drivers wing and bumper, alot better now.
Took the hub off, and i put the old shaft back in, put it back together, No noise. HURRAH i thought, must be the spare shaft i put in, So, to make sure it was that, i put the other shaft back in. No noise. So no idea, everything was tight when i took the hub off.
Also changed an Inner CV boot whilst i had the shaft off.
And the front drivers knock, cant for the love of god figure out what it is, Im going to guess the Radious rod bushes i put in, as it didnt knock before i swapped them.
Got to work this morning, Hose turned up at half 9. So worked 8till 9:30. Then go on with the car! by 10am, She was mobile again 8)
New hose was "very" slightly different, the banjo wasnt exactly on the correct angle and there wasnt much twist in the line, never the less, made it fit.
Home for 11am. Car in the air - Time for an oil change
3pm, hooked up with Walsh and Adam. On route to cadwell!
Watching the bikes before our session.
Pits y0! Walshy putting on the Advans.
On track!
Walsh being a wheel whore
Before
After
Ready to go home...
Think we did approx 20-30 Laps in the 2 and a half hours we where there. Did 5 Laps on, 15 minutes off to let the cars cool down.
Shuttle went like a dream! Only issue i had, was on my 4th Session, VTEC Dropped out at 6000rpm, Followed by an EML Light. Code 22 VTEC Oil Pressure. I Had done about 6 laps, So i assume the oil got hot, and the oil pressure dropped. So 20 minutes off, Reset the EML light. Off we went again.
Then on the 6th session. the engine dropped out of vtec at 6000rpm Again, So took it steady for a lap, dropped the revs, no EML or oil light, so proceeded to get going again.
I did take some video, which i will sort out tomorrow night :top:
in "ok" condition, this one isnt the worst, but it isnt the best...Some work to be done here!
The polished lip has seen better days...
Bolts being stubborn...
Look at the corrosion between the threads.
15 mins and 16 bolts later.
15 more minutes, stainless scouring pad and some heavy duty degreaser.
Lip looking better.
Inner barrel.
Need to spend about another hour on this one wheel to get it where i want. I want the bolts to reflect in the lip. Plan is a nice blue from the Honda Jazz range (Sky blue?) Keep the bolts and nuts polished, polished wheel nuts and coloured center cap (With Watanabe Logo)
I have those same drain plugs and could not for the life of me find the right washer for the engine. It always leaked oil, I'd like to hear if you have the same problem with it. I've been thinking a rubber washer might do the trick. The transmission stays sealed up but the engine one is driving me nuts! I ended up using the stock plug there this last oil change.
Another shot of the wing. Measurements wise,this protrudes approx 9" from the original wing, I didnt want something too big, and this was intended as a first draft. But i think this is what ill stick with.
Then started on my spare set of Watanabes.
Ive taken a single wheel apart as the Experimentation wheel. The Barrels are quite badly weathered, lack of polishing over the years, and painting them incorrectly without splitting the barrel and inserts, has trapped water between the Insert and barrel which has led to some corrosion.
So, I hit the lips in 5 Stages. 320 Grit, 600 Grit, 1200 Grit, 2000 Grit and Polishing wheel + Autosol.
Unpacked my shiny harness bar!
(More Detailed pictures on the Product Review section)
It came with no instructions, although it is pretty self explanatory, it still would of helped.
Didn't even send me equal length bolts...
This is how i figured to mount the Rose joint for the support, this way it doesn't compromise the movement of the belt.
Making sure its level
Looks good fitted!
The rear is still usable, plenty of space still, however, concerns have already been made regarding backseat passengers, To which i agree. But Ive only ever had passengers in the rear twice since Ive had the shuttle.
Next, Decided to fit my Goodridge Braided lines for the front.
Re-bleeding the system.
Cleaned the calipers after the last track session.
Also been having a leak in the passengers footwell, Discovered it to be this bung.
Nice...
Also had an issue with the drivers rear window regulator, one of the internal clocks (Rubber sandwiched between 2 metal plates), Had split in half, After several attempts and several types of Epoxy. Which all failed. I just glued the entire assembly together Now all fixed and working flawlessy
The harness bar has certainly made a difference to the chassis stiffness, certainly stiffer. And the brake hoses. WOW, the pedal feels awesome 8) [/img]
another epic update. Cheers to all this Jubilee Bollox, ive have plenty of time to spare!
Today, i decided to make a Short shift box. Anyone whos driven the Shuttle (Walsh for example), Will know the gear stick and changing is rather special. The selection feels rather vague, and the shift throw is the same distance between a hotdog and a hallway.
So, I made this!
Stripped down the box to the bare chassis.
Got the grinder out.
And raised it approx 1"
Next was to extend the arms.
Next, to extend the stick.
Back together
I noticed this cable was missing a Bush. That wouldn't help with the slackness
Also swapped this Bush.
Comparison between Stock and my Modified one.
Installed!
Just had to cut this bracket off, The bit which sandwiches the Gear stick Gaiter, as the new Raised linkage was fouling the cone section
Throw Before. (5.5" --> 9.5" = 4" Throw)
After (6" --> 8.5" = 2.5" Throw)
37% Throw Reduction!! And it feels Fapping AWESOME now! What i missed about driving a 2WD Hatch, was the Notchy feel the gear stick had going into gear, which the shuttle never had, Gearstick was very sloppy and lacked a sporty feel. Now however, WOW!! Should of done this AGES ago, IT nows feels excellent, Nice nothcy feel into gear, its epic to say the least!
Just left Mimms, and my stereo started playing up...After that it started to rain and my wipers were moving at a snails pace. Entire dashboard dim and 16 miles to the next services. Managed to limp it there.
Bloody Alternator wire had fried....
Fixed and got me home! :top:
Watanabes back from the blasters.
These are in as good condition as my other set. Years of being badly painted (without splitting) have left the barrels pitted. Which is a shame, Luckily, most of its not shown with the centers are in.
When painted in the past, the barrel hasnt masked, so it was painted. I started wire wheeling it, but started to damage a bit of the barrel, so decided to strip the paint instead.
£27 a Gallon. The same, if not better than the OLD style nitromorz that you could get years ago. Not the shit they sell today.
After a single coat / 10 minutes
Sorted!
Went to the scrappers and finally got some OBD1 Dizzy plugs, Loom side...
Tried to fit the bucket seat again today, Failed miserably again. I need some 2" Wide steel and some 5mm spacers. Damn recaro was easy, 2 holes drilled done.
So, decided to fit the harness instead.
Also waiting on some Braided wire sleeving before i sort the Dizzy wiring, and hopefully sorting my Code 9 ive had for 11 months...
Seating position isn't bad. Its "slightly" higher. I can lower it another 10mm, but thats basically welding the seat to the rails. which i really don't want to do
Sorry for that i did mean the fog lights, They look just like the ones i bought from Napa for 20 bucks aren't their OEM outlines on the back of the front bumper. I really wanna reinstall mine and put them in the bumper like you did. Whats that rubber material you used to outline the hole looks like the gasket strip that goes around the doors but that just a guess.
Something to look into when you are bleeding brakes.
The ATE Type-200 fluid has the same properties as the Super Blue, but it is gold/yellow in color. Helps when you are doing a full bleed so you know you've gotten all of the old fluid out.
Sorry for that i did mean the fog lights, They look just like the ones i bought from Napa for 20 bucks aren't their OEM outlines on the back of the front bumper. I really wanna reinstall mine and put them in the bumper like you did. Whats that rubber material you used to outline the hole looks like the gasket strip that goes around the doors but that just a guess.
Yes, the bumpers had the lines for Stanley and Bosch. I had to make brackets however, which took some trail and error to get them to sit right. The black trim is indeed the bit which goes round the door frame
Something to look into when you are bleeding brakes.
The ATE Type-200 fluid has the same properties as the Super Blue, but it is gold/yellow in color. Helps when you are doing a full bleed so you know you've gotten all of the old fluid out.
Way ahead of you Ive realized how EASY bleeding brakes are. 'a very cautious worker. and working on brakes is something i have dreaded. in the fear something i do can go majorly wrong, results in an accident. But Ive grown lots of confidence now. So will make a brake fluid change a yearly thing
Comments
Got up early, and got the shuttle in the air to bleed all the brakes.
Used a Brake bleeder which you attach to an airline, and it does all the hard work for you!
sucked the old fluid out the reservoir using a syringe, and filled it with fresh ATE Super Blue
I bled each nipple for approx 10 minutes. Did the rears twice, and both front calipers 4 times per side.
Whilst the bleeder was hard at work, i cracked the grinder out and shaved the carrier a bit for extra clearence.
Then gave the caliper a quick lick of paint.
Took it for a test drive, and VERY weird to drive, car was all over the place, and pulled REAL hard to the left when accelerating.
So, took it my mate, Adam, and it had it lazer alligned. Both front wheels with 5 degrees toe IN :shock: No wonder it was special to drive...
Whilst i was there, One of my Parada's had started to show the cords on the passenger front. Which is a shame, as i had planned to kill this on tuesday at Cadwell Park. So, Adam did me an awesome deal on some used Toyo T1R Proxes, Both with a good 3mm of tread for £20 fitted and balanced. Couldnt say no...
So, i know have 2 Decent Paradas on the front (with approx 2mm of tread each) and 2 Proxes on the rear (3mm Each) Should do me well for the track day!
It now drives spot on! doesnt pull or anything now. Happy with that!
Now, the brakes work, and are fine. However, the pedal doesnt really bit until about 1/2 travel, so i think a bigger Master Cylinder will benefit the system, but isnt a requirement. I do have a 15/16 master Cylinder off a VT, which is a direct replacement (Both on the servo and Brake pipes). Or its stick a 1" MC in, But this means removal of the old servo and 2 new brake lines made up, Aswell as Rebleeding the entire system.
So i checked the Radios arms, the drivers had some play, but the passengers had a lot more play than the drivers. So called every motor factor, Cant get pattern parts, Fuck...
So, Luckily...I had a set of radios arms from an old civic i stripped. LUCKILY, they had bushes in a lot better condition.
New on the left, old on the right.
All back together, took it for a run. knocking is still there. FUUUUUUUUUUCK sake!!!!
I'm lost now, The only thing i have changed is the drive shaft. But, its not a drive shaft noise. It doesn't knock all the time, noticeably more on rough road.
At a loss
Hey ho....
Sorted the panel gap between the drivers wing and bumper, alot better now.
Then had ago at cleaning my wheels.
Laziness FTW
Took it for a wash, Done for today.
Would the knock be the lower shock mount on the lca? The ones in my ITR were worn and over big bumps it knocked
I'm thinking it's the driveshaft / axel. As that's the only think I havnt checked
What as it? Dont know :?
Took the hub off, and i put the old shaft back in, put it back together, No noise. HURRAH i thought, must be the spare shaft i put in, So, to make sure it was that, i put the other shaft back in. No noise. So no idea, everything was tight when i took the hub off.
Also changed an Inner CV boot whilst i had the shaft off.
And the front drivers knock, cant for the love of god figure out what it is, Im going to guess the Radious rod bushes i put in, as it didnt knock before i swapped them.
Gunna try to get hold of some ES bushes.
FUCK SAKE!!!!!
Blew the brake pipe on brake tester...24 hours before im meant to be on the track!! :evil:
DETERMINATION!! Damn straight
Got to work this morning, Hose turned up at half 9. So worked 8till 9:30. Then go on with the car! by 10am, She was mobile again 8)
New hose was "very" slightly different, the banjo wasnt exactly on the correct angle and there wasnt much twist in the line, never the less, made it fit.
Home for 11am. Car in the air - Time for an oil change
3pm, hooked up with Walsh and Adam. On route to cadwell!
Watching the bikes before our session.
Pits y0! Walshy putting on the Advans.
On track!
Walsh being a wheel whore
Before
After
Ready to go home...
Think we did approx 20-30 Laps in the 2 and a half hours we where there. Did 5 Laps on, 15 minutes off to let the cars cool down.
Shuttle went like a dream! Only issue i had, was on my 4th Session, VTEC Dropped out at 6000rpm, Followed by an EML Light. Code 22 VTEC Oil Pressure. I Had done about 6 laps, So i assume the oil got hot, and the oil pressure dropped. So 20 minutes off, Reset the EML light. Off we went again.
Then on the 6th session. the engine dropped out of vtec at 6000rpm Again, So took it steady for a lap, dropped the revs, no EML or oil light, so proceeded to get going again.
I did take some video, which i will sort out tomorrow night :top:
New tyres fitted!
and 12 months Ticket!
:top:
And Trackday video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In9mHiFgW5I
Enjoy!
Heres a new link!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In9mHiFgW5I
in "ok" condition, this one isnt the worst, but it isnt the best...Some work to be done here!
The polished lip has seen better days...
Bolts being stubborn...
Look at the corrosion between the threads.
15 mins and 16 bolts later.
15 more minutes, stainless scouring pad and some heavy duty degreaser.
Lip looking better.
Inner barrel.
Need to spend about another hour on this one wheel to get it where i want. I want the bolts to reflect in the lip. Plan is a nice blue from the Honda Jazz range (Sky blue?) Keep the bolts and nuts polished, polished wheel nuts and coloured center cap (With Watanabe Logo)
3 more to go...
And finally sorted my steering wheel, been bugging me for AGES, More so, recently on the track day.
BLOX Sump and gearbox plugs.
Goodridge Braided Brake Hoses.
Someone say Chargespeed?
Progress here - http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 014&type=3
I Find the Aluminium washers give a better seal than Copper ones.
Ive had these before with no issues at all
Another shot of the wing. Measurements wise,this protrudes approx 9" from the original wing, I didnt want something too big, and this was intended as a first draft. But i think this is what ill stick with.
Then started on my spare set of Watanabes.
Ive taken a single wheel apart as the Experimentation wheel. The Barrels are quite badly weathered, lack of polishing over the years, and painting them incorrectly without splitting the barrel and inserts, has trapped water between the Insert and barrel which has led to some corrosion.
So, I hit the lips in 5 Stages. 320 Grit, 600 Grit, 1200 Grit, 2000 Grit and Polishing wheel + Autosol.
Corrosion
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos- ... 4896_n.jpg
After 1200 grit.
After 2000 Grit
Autosol + Polishing Cloth
Autosol + Polishing wheel.
Happy with that 8)
Hit a milestone..
Mummy arrive in the post this morning
Sold my soul....
So, LOTS of stuff done to the Bus today 8)
Finished work, Straight home.
Unpacked my shiny harness bar!
(More Detailed pictures on the Product Review section)
It came with no instructions, although it is pretty self explanatory, it still would of helped.
Didn't even send me equal length bolts...
This is how i figured to mount the Rose joint for the support, this way it doesn't compromise the movement of the belt.
Making sure its level
Looks good fitted!
The rear is still usable, plenty of space still, however, concerns have already been made regarding backseat passengers, To which i agree. But Ive only ever had passengers in the rear twice since Ive had the shuttle.
Next, Decided to fit my Goodridge Braided lines for the front.
Re-bleeding the system.
Cleaned the calipers after the last track session.
Also been having a leak in the passengers footwell, Discovered it to be this bung.
Nice...
Also had an issue with the drivers rear window regulator, one of the internal clocks (Rubber sandwiched between 2 metal plates), Had split in half, After several attempts and several types of Epoxy. Which all failed. I just glued the entire assembly together
The harness bar has certainly made a difference to the chassis stiffness, certainly stiffer. And the brake hoses. WOW, the pedal feels awesome 8)
Today, i decided to make a Short shift box. Anyone whos driven the Shuttle (Walsh for example), Will know the gear stick and changing is rather special. The selection feels rather vague, and the shift throw is the same distance between a hotdog and a hallway.
So, I made this!
Stripped down the box to the bare chassis.
Got the grinder out.
And raised it approx 1"
Next was to extend the arms.
Next, to extend the stick.
Back together
I noticed this cable was missing a Bush. That wouldn't help with the slackness
Also swapped this Bush.
Comparison between Stock and my Modified one.
Installed!
Just had to cut this bracket off, The bit which sandwiches the Gear stick Gaiter, as the new Raised linkage was fouling the cone section
Throw Before. (5.5" --> 9.5" = 4" Throw)
After (6" --> 8.5" = 2.5" Throw)
37% Throw Reduction!! And it feels Fapping AWESOME now! What i missed about driving a 2WD Hatch, was the Notchy feel the gear stick had going into gear, which the shuttle never had, Gearstick was very sloppy and lacked a sporty feel. Now however, WOW!! Should of done this AGES ago, IT nows feels excellent, Nice nothcy feel into gear, its epic to say the least!
:drivegear:
This happened on way home....
Just left Mimms, and my stereo started playing up...After that it started to rain and my wipers were moving at a snails pace. Entire dashboard dim and 16 miles to the next services. Managed to limp it there.
Bloody Alternator wire had fried....
Fixed and got me home! :top:
Watanabes back from the blasters.
These are in as good condition as my other set. Years of being badly painted (without splitting) have left the barrels pitted. Which is a shame, Luckily, most of its not shown with the centers are in.
When painted in the past, the barrel hasnt masked, so it was painted. I started wire wheeling it, but started to damage a bit of the barrel, so decided to strip the paint instead.
£27 a Gallon. The same, if not better than the OLD style nitromorz that you could get years ago. Not the shit they sell today.
After a single coat / 10 minutes
Sorted!
Went to the scrappers and finally got some OBD1 Dizzy plugs, Loom side...
Thats it for now!
So, decided to fit the harness instead.
Also waiting on some Braided wire sleeving before i sort the Dizzy wiring, and hopefully sorting my Code 9 ive had for 11 months...
3rd attempt. Went in first time!
Seating position isn't bad. Its "slightly" higher. I can lower it another 10mm, but thats basically welding the seat to the rails. which i really don't want to do
The ATE Type-200 fluid has the same properties as the Super Blue, but it is gold/yellow in color. Helps when you are doing a full bleed so you know you've gotten all of the old fluid out.
Yes, the bumpers had the lines for Stanley and Bosch. I had to make brackets however, which took some trail and error to get them to sit right. The black trim is indeed the bit which goes round the door frame
Way ahead of you