The difference in ratios are so miniscule that I don't think there'd be a problem running the Wagon rear diff with the CRV tranny/transfer case. I know that Rally Sol guy on Honda-Tech was thinking it killed his VC, but I think it was just time for it to go anyways, and his rally driving made it go faster.
The flange issue does need to be addressed though. You could simply make an aluminum adapter. That's what I have on my setup. My driveshaft has north american iron u-joints on it, and 2 aluminum adaters to allow it to bolt up to the transfer case and the rear diff.
When i was doing the swap, I said the same thing about the ratios. My boss at the time took me out to the shop and put the diffs side by side and measured out a few things (things my brain doesnt really comprehend) and he did some math crap and told me if I was gonna daily drive it, autox it and hillclimb it, that I should definatly take the time to fit the crv rear diff in the car. Fitting the crv diff in the car was pretty damn easy in all reality. Only issue was having custom rear axles made.
Since I did this 5-6 years ago though there has been lots of light shed on the awd honda stuff. From what ive seen sounds like the wagon diffs are the way to go. So if you go that route, it will be interesting to see how it does. My buddy here is doing the same thing with his crv (wagon dl and diff). So we should have some real world use to determine wether its an issue or not.
My old wagon is still going (unless things have changed) despite me and my wife beating the hell out of it for 4 autox seasons, being sold a few times and driven all over the county by now, lol. I had zero issues with it wearing tires, making wierd noise etc.
Whatever route you choose, its cool to see someone else doing this swap. makes for a really fun car, youll enjoy the hell out of it.
^^^ yessir. I tired to use the stock axles, but they were just a touch to long for some reason. I could bolt it together ok, but you could tell they were binding just a touch. Might have something to do with the way I placed the tranny mount, who knows?
Here's a close up of the 1st ones that ACPT (the company that made my driveshaft) sent. They were wrong, but they essentially look exactly like this, just with slightly different dimensions. If you have access to a lathe and a hunk of aluminum you could make these easy.
-Replaced passenger front axle.
-Fixed the traction bar (was never tightened.) had to cut for access.
-Dropped the rear suspension 2"
-The old suspension
-And put the meattty sway bar in the front.. played around a bit.. how bout this for a jdm beagle bar? haha
lol. hard to find some tires to fit 13x8s so I rock em. lol
Shenrie, ive been meanin to ask you, or anyone in general, have any problems with axle binding?
She chatters a lot going straight and turning (stock suspension and before replacing the axle)
Now she only chatters when mashing on the gas. (lowered 2" and replaced axle) weird?
Did you remove the little dust ring on the outside cup? Ive had to remove those before using da axles on various ef's but I cant remember why. seems like it was just hard to get stuff lined up to get bolted back together, gah, I cant remember, lol.
Doesnt seem like a 2 inch swap would be an issue. I didnt have issues dropped 3-4" without any bindage, but maybe it was low enough that it was pulling the da axles farther apart making them longer so they didnt bind?
Did you remove the little dust ring on the outside cup? Ive had to remove those before using da axles on various ef's but I cant remember why. seems like it was just hard to get stuff lined up to get bolted back together, gah, I cant remember, lol.
Doesnt seem like a 2 inch swap would be an issue. I didnt have issues dropped 3-4" without any bindage, but maybe it was low enough that it was pulling the da axles farther apart making them longer so they didnt bind?
Id get in trouble sporting 710's for the daily.
Prolly going to align her tomorrow, possibly.
And I didnt remove the dust ring.. hmm
I need to find new shoes. maybe some rota slips or somethin. ha
Guys. I'm having serious axle binding. I'm not sure what to do. I'll post pictures later.
Question right now is what drivers side axle and intermediate shaft do I need for this swap? Thanks for all the help.
i have the stock RT4 intermediate shaft at my place if you want to toss it in and see. I'd imagine you'd need the DA ones for both though (being b series)
Charb, we have looked very hard for this information. We haven't found much on this kind of
Swap, I have search I didn't find muxh information, and I'm not a noob to this. Akflip bought this
car expectling little issues. We are at a standstill right now, we need information comparing a crv
Intermediate shaft and a da integra intermediate shaft. The previous owner of the car can't give
Us great information on the swap. So we just asked for help, if you can lead us in a good direction
On where the information is that would be super. We were hoping jaker and shernie would post
Something to give us a hand that is all.
We left the dust ring on the passenger side, the axle seems to be doing much better, no clicking. We haven't replaced the drivers side axle from where all the axle binding is coming from. Akflip should have posted the pictures last night, but I will make sure he does it tonight. As far as I can tell Shenrie the DA intermediate shaft has a female end that the axle connects to? The CRV has a male end? Is that correct?
Going off what ive seen on the later model Integras, thats a safe bet. 94+ Integras have the inny axles and outty int shafts, and the 90-93 Integras are the exact opposite.
I havent had the pieces side by side, but had always been told they were interchangable (da & dc). I have used dc passenger side axles on my integra and wagon, but had never used the drivers side axle on either. Hopefully thats your issue.
if you were able to see the parts in person, you'd see how much they bind on the driver side. When we replaced the passenger side axle, there was a slight difference in overall length between the DA one we were putting in and whatever the previous owner had installed.
hoping to pull it out this week sometime and double check it for sure. integra da's are readily available at the junkyard, so its no problem
Hows it guys. been a while since ive been on, been pretty busy.
Some updates.
-Replaced the intermediate shaft and drivers side axle with DA ones, helped a bit with the chattering and binding, but not much.
-Had to dig in a bit more, Pulled everything off that we could to get to the mounts that the previous owners had fabricated. only to find some of the ugliest welds Ive ever seen and some pretty jenkity brackets. They had shimmed the drivers side mount about 2-3 inches in the rear, welded the tranny mount, and the rear mount was just not even the right part.
-Sooo, I ordered myself a new set of urethane mounts, bolted in the drivers side mount to find that the motor does not sit in any way that it should. The tranny mount that they welded directly to the car, is off by about 2-3 inches, which was pushing the motor back and sideways.
-The rear mount was about 4-5 inches down from where it should be, so i am going to be fabricating my own bracket.
-Put a jack under the motor and raised it up to find that it looked to be they were worried about clearence of the hood (which would explain the 8-12 washers to shim the hood up.) and the motor was cocked back, almost as if it was trying to be an H22. But jacked the motor up to wear it needs to be, axles were now straight. so that could possibly fix it. thank god.
I did come across a problem, that I dont understand and some of my friends that are honda techs could not even explain. When we rotated the wheels, the suspension would move up and down as well. can anyone explain this or is this just part of the binding issue?
I'll update more later, sorry its been a few months, just been really busy.
Comments
In for pics.
Since I did this 5-6 years ago though there has been lots of light shed on the awd honda stuff. From what ive seen sounds like the wagon diffs are the way to go. So if you go that route, it will be interesting to see how it does. My buddy here is doing the same thing with his crv (wagon dl and diff). So we should have some real world use to determine wether its an issue or not.
My old wagon is still going (unless things have changed) despite me and my wife beating the hell out of it for 4 autox seasons, being sold a few times and driven all over the county by now, lol. I had zero issues with it wearing tires, making wierd noise etc.
Whatever route you choose, its cool to see someone else doing this swap. makes for a really fun car, youll enjoy the hell out of it.
Here's a close up of the 1st ones that ACPT (the company that made my driveshaft) sent. They were wrong, but they essentially look exactly like this, just with slightly different dimensions. If you have access to a lathe and a hunk of aluminum you could make these easy.
I love this. helps out a lot with my ideas. Thank you.
2" drop
Parts in the mail.
Silicon throttlebody gasket
Purple Godspeed lca's
Gold Godspeed camber adj.
and DA axle
-Replaced passenger front axle.
-Fixed the traction bar (was never tightened.) had to cut for access.
-Dropped the rear suspension 2"
-The old suspension
-And put the meattty sway bar in the front.. played around a bit.. how bout this for a jdm beagle bar? haha
Shenrie, ive been meanin to ask you, or anyone in general, have any problems with axle binding?
She chatters a lot going straight and turning (stock suspension and before replacing the axle)
Now she only chatters when mashing on the gas. (lowered 2" and replaced axle) weird?
Did you remove the little dust ring on the outside cup? Ive had to remove those before using da axles on various ef's but I cant remember why. seems like it was just hard to get stuff lined up to get bolted back together, gah, I cant remember, lol.
Doesnt seem like a 2 inch swap would be an issue. I didnt have issues dropped 3-4" without any bindage, but maybe it was low enough that it was pulling the da axles farther apart making them longer so they didnt bind?
Id get in trouble sporting 710's for the daily.
Prolly going to align her tomorrow, possibly.
And I didnt remove the dust ring.. hmm
I need to find new shoes. maybe some rota slips or somethin. ha
Question right now is what drivers side axle and intermediate shaft do I need for this swap? Thanks for all the help.
somebody please chime in?
Bump for research.
All of your answers are easier to find than you think...
Swap, I have search I didn't find muxh information, and I'm not a noob to this. Akflip bought this
car expectling little issues. We are at a standstill right now, we need information comparing a crv
Intermediate shaft and a da integra intermediate shaft. The previous owner of the car can't give
Us great information on the swap. So we just asked for help, if you can lead us in a good direction
On where the information is that would be super. We were hoping jaker and shernie would post
Something to give us a hand that is all.
hoping to pull it out this week sometime and double check it for sure. integra da's are readily available at the junkyard, so its no problem
Right (passenger) side axle
Normal^^
Left side axle
^^Normal at the Intermediate shaft....then....
ew
but also tried on some new shoes and some new mudflaps to drag instead of my OEM 4WD ones.
Some updates.
-Replaced the intermediate shaft and drivers side axle with DA ones, helped a bit with the chattering and binding, but not much.
-Had to dig in a bit more, Pulled everything off that we could to get to the mounts that the previous owners had fabricated. only to find some of the ugliest welds Ive ever seen and some pretty jenkity brackets. They had shimmed the drivers side mount about 2-3 inches in the rear, welded the tranny mount, and the rear mount was just not even the right part.
-Sooo, I ordered myself a new set of urethane mounts, bolted in the drivers side mount to find that the motor does not sit in any way that it should. The tranny mount that they welded directly to the car, is off by about 2-3 inches, which was pushing the motor back and sideways.
-The rear mount was about 4-5 inches down from where it should be, so i am going to be fabricating my own bracket.
-Put a jack under the motor and raised it up to find that it looked to be they were worried about clearence of the hood (which would explain the 8-12 washers to shim the hood up.) and the motor was cocked back, almost as if it was trying to be an H22. But jacked the motor up to wear it needs to be, axles were now straight. so that could possibly fix it. thank god.
I did come across a problem, that I dont understand and some of my friends that are honda techs could not even explain. When we rotated the wheels, the suspension would move up and down as well. can anyone explain this or is this just part of the binding issue?
I'll update more later, sorry its been a few months, just been really busy.