were you able to keep the same height with the sportmaxx wheels?
loolking forward to seeing the paint
They're pretty much the same size as stock (over diameter at least) So i probably will end up lifting it a bit once i get the other 2. But i cant even run them at the moment because i dont have the lug nuts for em! hahaha
And i'm looking forward to this weekend, paycheck, and no more rain!
Doing a y7 mini-me kind of thing, b2 block with a y7 head. Head is on, waiting till tomorrow to finish it because A)i need a chain wrench to change the timing belt, and to do all the soldering for the MPFI and C) I need valve cover bolts for the y7.
Its pretty cool looking in there, vtec fake out (z6 valve cover off a del sol) Pics tomorrow when its finished!
I bought a 10dollar chain wrench yesterday (well today i guess?) But it was too short by like.. half an inch, but i made it work anyways haha.
Sooooo D15y7 with a z6 timing belt ftw! Just need to finish the Multiport wiring, swapping the dizzy plug, and extending the TPS and wiring the rest of the resistor box wires right.
Oh, and ANOTHER trip to a junkyard to find a z6/y7/y8 to steal the valve cover bolts. Then hopefully i get to figure out if its going to run or not haha
So the motor runs (amazingly enough)
But the PG7 ecu is throwing codes 3,4,6,7,10,14,16
Which is a lot.
3 is the map sensor (probly wiring or the fact i only have half of it... and no purge canister)
4 is crank angle (not sure what i'm going to do about that..)
6 is coolant temp (the wire kinda doesnt have a connector so its not plugged in.)
7 is throttle angle (TPS?) Probly wired wrong.
10 is intake air temp, bad sensor or incorrect connector on it haha
14 electronic air control, I have no idea what that is!<<
16 is fuel injector, Yes, they all work. at idle if you disconnect 1 injector plug from the injector the motor bogs down. Does that for all 4.
Help? Anyone want to translate this factory service manual lingo to... normal people lingo. I'd appreciate it! haha
yeah i'm going to swap from a b2 block to an a6 as soon as my buddy swaps it out of his friends' dads sedan!
But apart from that, all i have to say is im fucking pissed.
Fedex tried to deliver my megan's at 10am...
while i was asleep.
with a signature required...
Sooo the megan ez-streets are in, im about as low as i can go without dragging my ebay header 24/7 and i still have all 3 lock coils in the front.
Still riding stiff tho, its a huge change from bouncy ebay coils
The rear however is bottomed out the mount (the mount adjusts up the strut) And i have.... 11 threads left and i'm barely tucking any tire.
Also my d15b2 bottom end is going to shit, so i'm buying a z6 block from a friend with new rod bearings and piston rings.
The basic plan now is to make the wagon reliable enough to daily so i can buy a 240sx and race that
oh and i bought jdm crx sidemarkers a front strut bar, a c pillar bar and ARP head studs.
Looking for some auto seatbelt DA seats and LS webs with decent tires. Then i'm about done except for a paint job!
Hey man i got a gray wagon like yours i installed megan EZ coilovers the height in rear isnt nearly low! =( any suggestions by the way im in spanaway!
Idk how i didn't see this before, the pics i have posted are all with the ebay coils. I'm with ya on the rear not being low enough! Right now i have 1 lock washer in the rear and the mount adjusted all the way onto the shock, and its not even tucking tire. I'm going to lower the spring down the 11 or so threads, which is about an inch. But still! I don't think i'll be able to go as low as i want.
On a different note, MINI UPDATE!
The d15b2 block now has blown rings, so i'm buying an a6 block and taking it to a machine shop for new rings main/rod bearings.
Picked up some DA seats with auto seatbelts (Thanks to Oldskoolef!) They don't really match the rest of the interior but #nocare
A d16a6 block and a d16y7 head it should be about 10:1 compression so i'll actually have enough power to get to 60+ before getting on the freeway!
Also i need a new throttle body or a tps sensor my itself, (may as well upgrade tho )
Then the rest of the work i'll be doing will be cosmetic, paint job possibly from maaco or someplace once i pick up a 2nd car.
Maybe some super clean ls webs if i can't find the sportmax 501's in 16x8 for a decent price.
If we ever end up meeting up for those front breaks i have a spare TPS u can have. unless u upgrade......
The option is there for me to just go obd1, i have a complete z6 manifold with tb and injectors and all that jazz. Plus i'd be able to get it tuned and eliminate sensors for a wire tuck and such. All i'd really need is a dizzy ecu and jumper harness. I plan on buying a spare harness for an d16a6 or z6 or something and pulling my motor out and doing a full tuck harness.
Got my sportmaxx 501's on all 4 corners.
Lowered the back on my megans all the way and then some. (redrilled the bottom mount hole farther up)
the d15b2 block is still in, burning tons of oil.
The header to cat connection has been severed multiple times. (It should hold now that theres lock nuts on it!) :?
Bought new pistons/rings/rod bearings/main bearings for the d16a6 block in my garage.
Plans as of now, for the next week or 2, clean my shop, rebuild the a6 block. Pull my motor and begin the real fun!
Innovative semi-solid mounts, rebuild a6 block, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the bay, New axles, Paint the bay white, Make a full tuck engine harness that converts to OBD1 also, Traction bar, stage 3 clutch/10lbs flywheel, Paint the valve cover, clean more of the engine and make it super fresh.
Then the turbo build (on stock internals if permitted) And camber kits for the rear with new gold LCA's.
Anyone care? I might post some pictures once in a while.
A few pics, I just got a new phone, and i had the screen dark and instead of realizing that i compensated by putting more contrast on the pics when i took them. Lesson learned haha.
Backs lower then front. Think u need spacer in back or lil less camber to get that wheel closer to the body
I was planning on getting camber kits because of what i had to do to make it that low.
I mentioned that the ez-street coilovers were ALSO meant for a DA right? So they're super long, i was barely tucking any tire as far down as i could go without cutting the spring. So instead i redrilled the bottom mount (where it bolts to the LCA) so it goes farther down. Then the holes weren't quite perfect since we did it by hand.. So the camber is off from one side to the other.
Also, i cant even stick my finger between the body and the tire.
Yes, the back is lower right now. But i cant go lower in the front until i rebuild my a6 and stick that in there. Ebay headers sit too low on a d15.
Well since a bunch of my thread disappeared, and right now i feel too lazy to re-upload the pics but I've gotten a few things done.
NRG woodgrain steering wheel w/ quick release
Black housing headlights
DA integra seats
And waiting to go in/ parts arriving monday
gold blox LCA's
push/pull slimfan
DA front spindles (aka big breaks!)
new axles
CRV cluster
stage 3 clutch/lightened flywheel
jdm crx sidemarker lights
Everything but the crv cluster should go in tomorrow or teusday.
Looks like I have a lot of work to get done soon huh?
The pics are still on my computer but again, being lazy.
Comments
Just waiting for the weather to heat back up a little bit. Not going to try and paint when its humid and cold.....
Not sure exactly
I'm really hoping this week goes by fast, i want next weekend to be here already haha.
loolking forward to seeing the paint
They're pretty much the same size as stock (over diameter at least) So i probably will end up lifting it a bit once i get the other 2. But i cant even run them at the moment because i dont have the lug nuts for em! hahaha
And i'm looking forward to this weekend, paycheck, and no more rain!
Doing a y7 mini-me kind of thing, b2 block with a y7 head. Head is on, waiting till tomorrow to finish it because A)i need a chain wrench to change the timing belt, and
Its pretty cool looking in there, vtec fake out (z6 valve cover off a del sol) Pics tomorrow when its finished!
do you just put a towel or something on the pulley and use a chain wrench?
i have a crank pulley tool for the OBD1-2 crank pulleys if you want to borrow it
Sooooo D15y7 with a z6 timing belt ftw! Just need to finish the Multiport wiring, swapping the dizzy plug, and extending the TPS and wiring the rest of the resistor box wires right.
Oh, and ANOTHER trip to a junkyard to find a z6/y7/y8 to steal the valve cover bolts. Then hopefully i get to figure out if its going to run or not haha
But the PG7 ecu is throwing codes 3,4,6,7,10,14,16
Which is a lot.
3 is the map sensor (probly wiring or the fact i only have half of it... and no purge canister)
4 is crank angle (not sure what i'm going to do about that..)
6 is coolant temp (the wire kinda doesnt have a connector so its not plugged in.)
7 is throttle angle (TPS?) Probly wired wrong.
10 is intake air temp, bad sensor or incorrect connector on it haha
14 electronic air control, I have no idea what that is!<<
16 is fuel injector, Yes, they all work. at idle if you disconnect 1 injector plug from the injector the motor bogs down. Does that for all 4.
Help? Anyone want to translate this factory service manual lingo to... normal people lingo. I'd appreciate it! haha
Installed 6k hid's, gold tow hooks front and rear, need to get some motivation and install my adjustable cam gear.
I honestly was smiling for 3 hours at work because i was so happy to have my wagon back!
Pics tomorrow for anyone interested ;-)
But apart from that, all i have to say is im fucking pissed.
Fedex tried to deliver my megan's at 10am...
while i was asleep.
with a signature required...
Yes the car is dirty, its too damn cold to wash it.
Megans should be here and IN tomorrow, stoked!!!
Still riding stiff tho, its a huge change from bouncy ebay coils
The rear however is bottomed out the mount (the mount adjusts up the strut) And i have.... 11 threads left and i'm barely tucking any tire.
Also my d15b2 bottom end is going to shit, so i'm buying a z6 block from a friend with new rod bearings and piston rings.
The basic plan now is to make the wagon reliable enough to daily so i can buy a 240sx and race that
oh and i bought jdm crx sidemarkers a front strut bar, a c pillar bar and ARP head studs.
Looking for some auto seatbelt DA seats and LS webs with decent tires. Then i'm about done except for a paint job!
On a different note, MINI UPDATE!
The d15b2 block now has blown rings, so i'm buying an a6 block and taking it to a machine shop for new rings main/rod bearings.
Picked up some DA seats with auto seatbelts (Thanks to Oldskoolef!) They don't really match the rest of the interior but #nocare
A d16a6 block and a d16y7 head it should be about 10:1 compression so i'll actually have enough power to get to 60+ before getting on the freeway!
Also i need a new throttle body or a tps sensor my itself, (may as well upgrade tho
Then the rest of the work i'll be doing will be cosmetic, paint job possibly from maaco or someplace once i pick up a 2nd car.
Maybe some super clean ls webs if i can't find the sportmax 501's in 16x8 for a decent price.
The option is there for me to just go obd1, i have a complete z6 manifold with tb and injectors and all that jazz. Plus i'd be able to get it tuned and eliminate sensors for a wire tuck and such. All i'd really need is a dizzy ecu and jumper harness. I plan on buying a spare harness for an d16a6 or z6 or something and pulling my motor out and doing a full tuck harness.
Got my sportmaxx 501's on all 4 corners.
Lowered the back on my megans all the way and then some. (redrilled the bottom mount hole farther up)
the d15b2 block is still in, burning tons of oil.
The header to cat connection has been severed multiple times. (It should hold now that theres lock nuts on it!) :?
Bought new pistons/rings/rod bearings/main bearings for the d16a6 block in my garage.
Plans as of now, for the next week or 2, clean my shop, rebuild the a6 block. Pull my motor and begin the real fun!
Innovative semi-solid mounts, rebuild a6 block, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the bay, New axles, Paint the bay white, Make a full tuck engine harness that converts to OBD1 also, Traction bar, stage 3 clutch/10lbs flywheel, Paint the valve cover, clean more of the engine and make it super fresh.
Then the turbo build (on stock internals if permitted) And camber kits for the rear with new gold LCA's.
Anyone care? I might post some pictures once in a while.
I was planning on getting camber kits because of what i had to do to make it that low.
I mentioned that the ez-street coilovers were ALSO meant for a DA right? So they're super long, i was barely tucking any tire as far down as i could go without cutting the spring. So instead i redrilled the bottom mount (where it bolts to the LCA) so it goes farther down. Then the holes weren't quite perfect since we did it by hand.. So the camber is off from one side to the other.
Also, i cant even stick my finger between the body and the tire.
Yes, the back is lower right now. But i cant go lower in the front until i rebuild my a6 and stick that in there. Ebay headers sit too low on a d15.
NRG woodgrain steering wheel w/ quick release
Black housing headlights
DA integra seats
And waiting to go in/ parts arriving monday
gold blox LCA's
push/pull slimfan
DA front spindles (aka big breaks!)
new axles
CRV cluster
stage 3 clutch/lightened flywheel
jdm crx sidemarker lights
Everything but the crv cluster should go in tomorrow or teusday.
Looks like I have a lot of work to get done soon huh?
The pics are still on my computer but again, being lazy.