Thinking about getting this for the wagon

Its an old school blox intake manifolds. What do yall think.

Comments

  • leWolfleWolf Senior Wagonist
    Re you sure thats blox? I dont see how it would hurt maybe get a b series TB and run it!
  • danzdanz Wagonist
    that manifold looks like it was made by a 7 yearold.

    besides that, what supporting mods are you running that warrant a manifold with a huge plenum and short runners like that?
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    to be honest the car is completely stock. i just thought it would be something worth getting since it and a d16z6 head are only $120.
  • Someone was selling one locally here too lemme know how it goes
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    ok well i found more parts i wanna throw at the wagon. that i will also be picking up tomorrow. The z6 head, the manifold plus a set of p29 pistons with z6 connecting rods. p28 ecu and the z6 engine harness. with the compression calculator i'd be running
    Static Comp Ratio
    12.05 : 1
    Effective Comp Ratio
    11.05 : 1
    does anyone see any issues with this set up
  • danzdanz Wagonist
    i have a LOT of d series experience and i can tell you now that manifold will not fit correctly and it will loose tq everywhere in your power band. it might show gains at HIGH rpm, but with the D series having such a poor R/S ratio and excessively high piston speeds you will not be able to reliably rev the engine high enough to take advantage of that.


    the insides of those intakes are HORRIBLE.

    if you REALLY want a new intake manifold for cheap look into the Blox cast manifold, which still is not a good option.

    i use an edelbrock performer X on my D16Z6 (fully forged internals) which i spin to 9600rpm, but remember its a straight up drag car that only sees WOT for about 10 seconds at a time (yes it runs 10s)

    putting that sheet metal manifold on your motor will surely be a downgrade in every way possible.


    i dont want you to think im putting you down. i just want you to understand why its not a good idea to use that manifold.


    the Z6 head how ever, is a great upgrade. coupled with a metal layer head gasket (.027) you will increase your CR to about 10:1 from 9:1, and with proper tuning and fuel you should see and feel a decent increase in power over a stock A6.

    further more, the p29 pistons (zc pistons) are not really a good option. the dome is right in the middle of the combustion chamber, and it effectively slows down flame front, requiring more timing to make the same power. P29s work, yes they do. but there are better options. for example PG6 pistons should drop right in with a stock Z6 cam. if u are going crazy with the cam you may need to have the reliefs deepened/widened.



    but the P29 build has been done over and over and works alright. there are just better options out there. for example i threw together a D17 crank/rods/pistons in a D16 block, shaved deck, .027 HG, Y8 head, which puts me at about 11:1 CR. on a QUICK street tune it put down 143hp on a stock cam

    thats a decent upgrade and its not even fully tuned yet
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    thanks for the good info danz. what do you think about the z6 connecting rods and p29 piston combo.
  • danzdanz Wagonist
    all D16 rods are basically created equal.

    the difference being D16A1/ZC rods are a little heavier and beefier looking, but its never been proved they are stronger.


    i edited my last reply and added more info at the bottom
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    thanks im not really lookin for high compression due to the fact im lookin pickin up a small turbo set up in the near future. but thanks for the info though. i really dont see the point in runnin an all motor d series when a turbo option is almost as easy and you can do it on a stock bottom end
  • DarinDarin Wagonist
    unless you do a d16/17 stroker n/a build like danz has.thing rips pretty good,im sure it will take down some b series.
  • 1988rt1988rt Senior Wagonist
    So the d17a crank, rods and pistons will go right in to a D16A6?
  • danzdanz Wagonist
    pretty much. you need to use a few D17 parts like the oil pan, oil pump, oil pickup, crank pulley, rear main seal housing, and timing belt. probably a few other things i forgot
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    so danz how much power is your na car making to the wheels
  • DarinDarin Wagonist
    RTiAWD wrote:
    so danz how much power is your na car making to the wheels

    130.4hp 118 tq
    219.jpg
  • 1988rt1988rt Senior Wagonist
    did you have any timming issues? Did you just use the factory dizzy?
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Seems like a lot of work for stock B16 power...

    Though, I realize not everyone likes the easy/road most traveled...
  • 1988rt1988rt Senior Wagonist
    yup but im trying to keep it single cam. Im not trying to find and install all the b series stuff to keep my awd
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    1988rt wrote:
    yup but im trying to keep it single cam. Im not trying to find and install all the b series stuff to keep my awd

    If you can handle building and tuning a D stroker...

    You should be able to handle installing a CRV drivetrain

    I love Honda reliability. I'll probably never build a motor (aside from simple rebuild)
  • RTiAWDRTiAWD Band Wagon
    well i picked up the head yesterday. i was shocked when it came with the valve cover and complete intake tb to fuel injectors and got it for $50. im gonna take the time to rebuild it, grab a cam and do a gasket match port n polish on it. After a little inspecting it seems to have a bent valve that caused a little damage to the combustion chamber so looks like ill need to get it machined a little. but i circled the damage in the pics below.
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