What do you need the beagle for? Just the injection stuff?
Will need a CR-V diff will you not? Seeing as how they are a different ratio to Beagle ones.
Currently I have a rustless 2wd carbed, im buying a rusty beagle.
Need beagle for pretty much everything, injection stuff, window regulators, interior bits, rear hubs, full dash wiring, heater controls, window rubbers.
Was more economical to buy a whole beagle (For the price I'm paying) than to source each part from wreckers, at least then I have spare fenders, bonnet etc
"I'm using the D series OBX in the Wagovan diff. It's also going in a Wagovan, so I don't have to worry about the trailing arms.
The rear drive issues are not to be worried about. I've determined that the rear wheels are not even turned at the same RPM by the gearing as the front wheels. They're running at more like 90% of the fronts. That's why I've said above that if the front's slip more than 10%, that's when the rears come into play. It's the difference in RPM between the front and the rear that brings the clutches in the CRV rear end in to play.
However, if you decide to eliminate the viscous coupling (in the case fo the Wagovan) or the clutches (in the case of the CRV), all bets are off. I don't know where you'd be there"
This meaning there's clutches in the crv box AND a viscous coupling in the CRV rear end... aka double kill. SO if I leave the clutches in the crv and not try do anything fancy and still use the shuttle rear diff and axles I should be fine. The rear end seems to only kick in when the fronts slip for the crv box, which is perfectly fine for my needs (Heli's in mud for the lols and the occasional drag day)
Finally picked up the parts wagon. Hopefully will be stripped down for parts I need and some half decent spares (Nearly impossible to get good replacement parts!)
666Dan has already taken the rear hatch and has a list of other stuff. Hopefully things will happen over the next coming months. Plan is to do an EFi swap on my red one then do the Bseries awd swap using CRV bits... :twisted:
I'm still alive. Progress on the shuttle has been very slow, I did that grown up thing and bought a house....
I still have both, the beagles now in a garage awaiting the strip-down and heart transplant ready for the final home of the red beast. Had news that I might have 4 shuttle living at my house soon (3 EF's and an AK)
Nothing to report back other than it now has silvered DC2 wheels and the rest hasn't changed. Proof below :P (My dog in the front seat, not my girlfriend)
Fuck 'em, big brake time. 282 Prelude caliper swap (Y) Just need to spray with brake cleaner, got a bit of grease on the rotors. Also putting a 15/16th MC and booster on at the same time.
cut the glue holding the brace under your hood. Use a serrated knife like a big bread knife, it will release the weird bubble on the hood. then you can re-glue after if it rattles. itll make the hood look way better and its a cheap fix
I believe he used DA8 front arms/hubs etc in which case it was bolt in affair. Disc rotors are late model mini ones so no need for redrilling to 4X100 (Y)
And Still have a few more DA8 bits to go on. Rear lip is ready to be attached and also the rear swaybar eventually, just need friend to make me up some spacers for the brackets.
I believe he used DA8 front arms/hubs etc in which case it was bolt in affair. Disc rotors are late model mini ones so no need for redrilling to 4X100 (Y)
More specifically, the bottom spec Mini Cooper 2007. It has 280mm disks and has the same centre bore for Hondas (Y)
I might end up looking for EF9/8 knuckles though, not sure how much mroe I cna lower it on the current setup. The only flaw of using DA front knuckles.
Comments
He is the one who is possibly buying my crx...
Beagle to be obtained in 3 weeks.
You do the math
Will need a CR-V diff will you not? Seeing as how they are a different ratio to Beagle ones.
Or am I missing something?
Need beagle for pretty much everything, injection stuff, window regulators, interior bits, rear hubs, full dash wiring, heater controls, window rubbers.
Was more economical to buy a whole beagle (For the price I'm paying) than to source each part from wreckers, at least then I have spare fenders, bonnet etc
But yes, will need rear diff and mounts still.
"I'm using the D series OBX in the Wagovan diff. It's also going in a Wagovan, so I don't have to worry about the trailing arms.
The rear drive issues are not to be worried about. I've determined that the rear wheels are not even turned at the same RPM by the gearing as the front wheels. They're running at more like 90% of the fronts. That's why I've said above that if the front's slip more than 10%, that's when the rears come into play. It's the difference in RPM between the front and the rear that brings the clutches in the CRV rear end in to play.
However, if you decide to eliminate the viscous coupling (in the case fo the Wagovan) or the clutches (in the case of the CRV), all bets are off. I don't know where you'd be there"
This meaning there's clutches in the crv box AND a viscous coupling in the CRV rear end... aka double kill. SO if I leave the clutches in the crv and not try do anything fancy and still use the shuttle rear diff and axles I should be fine. The rear end seems to only kick in when the fronts slip for the crv box, which is perfectly fine for my needs (Heli's in mud for the lols and the occasional drag day)
666Dan has already taken the rear hatch and has a list of other stuff. Hopefully things will happen over the next coming months. Plan is to do an EFi swap on my red one then do the Bseries awd swap using CRV bits... :twisted:
Both the children
Beagle
Generally straight body too
Except this sorta stuff is riddled in there
I still have both, the beagles now in a garage awaiting the strip-down and heart transplant ready for the final home of the red beast. Had news that I might have 4 shuttle living at my house soon (3 EF's and an AK)
Jealous?
If he doesnt then I do, you would just need to work out how to get it to your from Whakatane
Pffft you said I couldn't bring both of them :P
It's been spoken for by another NZH member at the moment, but he hasn't PM'd me about it in ages...
I can try hussle it and if he doesnt want it then perhaps bring it to NIMM for you or someone to take to Auckland.
That's of course if Dan doesn't want it?
Cheers mate, but I'm going to pick one up from NZ-DB8R on my way back from Gizzy.
Thanks again
Finally brakes in under 16x7 Buddyclub P1s. Hopefully these brakes fit under my new wheels on order for Japan otherwise it'll be reaaaally awkward.
Simple install and the braking is awesome!
And Still have a few more DA8 bits to go on. Rear lip is ready to be attached and also the rear swaybar eventually, just need friend to make me up some spacers for the brackets.
More specifically, the bottom spec Mini Cooper 2007. It has 280mm disks and has the same centre bore for Hondas (Y)
I might end up looking for EF9/8 knuckles though, not sure how much mroe I cna lower it on the current setup. The only flaw of using DA front knuckles.
http://nzhondas.com/tech-help/130317-poor-mans-type-r-brakes-upgrage-your-da-ef-dc-eg-straight-bolt-no-grinding-no-re-drilling-no-spacers.html Tutorial and everything, part numbers, sizes, everything. But obviously part number might be more NZ spec than US spec, but at least you can search the same sizes at your local auto shop.
JDM EF9 Mid Wing
New wheels, just ordering tyres for them