Suspension, Braking & Wheels — civicwagon.com

Parts - 86 push button 4wd wagon

jrh9360 — Thu, 10 Jul 2025 15:17:03 +0000

Found this little gem of a wagon for $300. It’s a 86 push button 4wd and as I’ve slowly learned….parts are hard to find. Seeing if anyone has any input for someone located in WASHINGTON STATE, USA.

thank you in advance

Strut tower bar fitment

negativearth — Thu, 12 Jun 2025 18:15:52 +0000

Started racing Solo (Autocross) with the wagon and looking in to some suspension improvements.

Getting body roll so several things are on the list, possibly including a front strut tower bar. I like the solid mounting points DC as opposed to the hinge style ones on some. Only thing is DC lists it as fitting a 92-00, most other ones I see say 88-00, curious if anyone has tried this bar and had success or know why DC bar wouldn't fit my 91.

https://bloxracing.com/products/dc-sports-front-strut-bar-92-00-civic-dx-lx-ex-si?variant=46430067622132&country=US¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21499740635&gbraid=0AAAAABYBXI2cCQuhlvj-KrAygVI7Rwxun&gclid=CjwKCAjw9anCBhAWEiwAqBJ-c-OMCR7ld_O_wZDs_Gz3mEe436aQY5YeMth4Ey5j8p6Np9JpEH7vhxoCohYQAvD_BwE

Thanks!

Steering rack blues

negativearth — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 18:27:02 +0000

Replaced my steering rack last week. Knowing the spotty at best state of auto parts (especially reman) I bought the most expensive one I could find, a Maval. It leaks from the rack seal on the drivers side. Maybe this is the frustration talking, but thinking about ditching power steering. Do the manual racks from the other Civics fit the wagon? Rockauto lists a manual rack for the RT. Curious how it effects handling as well, I figure more turns lock to lock. I was going to start Autocross in April...I don't want to make that suck, but I figure plenty of hatch and CRX drivers don't have power racks.

(EE/EY/EF) Rear Sway Bar fabrication from stock parts

mini — Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:13:11 +0000

Quick show of my sway bar set-up

Parts: 88-91 si or 90-93 integra sway bar (more fit), std. sway mount, 86-87 accord sway end link. NO NEED TO REFIT AN 88 IF YOU HAVE THE FORMED SHEET METAL LCAs. You keep the stock LCAs as the holes are already drilled in the correct location for the end links. The 88 is actually easier to fabricate.

In the photos you can see the difference between std and the accord links.

I installed the std. sway mount beneath a .5" shim stack with longer bolts.
Installed the bar. The stack offers adjustability.

My initial link and LCA set-up (can be used as an option to my latest):
Cut the shaft of the accord end link in half. Tapped the cut ends of each shaft with a 5/16 18 tap. Installed a hex coupler with set nuts to each tapped end. Then drilled the original wagon LCA and mountd the link end. The connector allows you to swivel the link mounts into correct position for mounting to bar and LCA. Make sure alignments are square!

As you can see from the pictures the ends of the bar are "nuts on" to the horizontal---optimal geometry.

The latest:
I have begun to alter the end link and the photos depict that project.
The shaft is cut free of the bar connector end.

The remaining shaft section is punched out of the bar connector end.
Powder coating is removed from the two link parts.

The cut shaft can now be inserted into the bar connector end of the link and set to the desired length prior to welding. I used my previous fabricated link a a template for length of the link--adjustment may need to me made. Remember to orient the bore of each eyelet on the two link pieces so that they are at 90'--proper installation.

I used the original accord link mounting stem as a mount to the LCA threaded tab. This stem was modified by grindng (bench or angle grinder mounted to a bench--rotate the stem) or lathing the shaft so that the end link slides down completely against the hex on the mounting stem. This minimizes the lever arm and puts the link perpendicular to the ground and LCA axis when installed.

This is a top quality set-up when finished--it looks stock. It takes 1/2 to 1 day to complete.

Sorry, have not figured out how to add photos.
Will post when I do.

As a note check the edit in the parts required above.
I may swap my 89 LCA set-up out to an 88 LCA and use the strut/spring set. I was told (still need to research) that the integra strut fits.

90-93 Integra (left) and a pair of 89-91 si (right) LCAs. I used the Itegra LCAs for my installation.

Stock 14.7 and 15.5 88-91 si or 91-93 Integra sway bar, mounting brackets and endlinks.

Rear view of the sway bar bracket mounted atop five shims totalling .5".
I used the forward-most two holes on the tow hook as a template to drill the bolt holes. Longer bolts than stock were required to compensate for the shims. Note I installed the shims to allow for adequate clearance at the middle of the bar close to the spare tire well. In addition this allows for adequate clearance of the sway bar end near the spring.

Rear view of the sway bar end mounted to the end link as described above. The LCA was drilled to accept the end link mounting shaft.
The shaft was bolted to the LCA. I improved the link as described below.
But, The cheapest route is to keep the stock LCA vs. buying an interchange part, as described.

Another rear view

Side view of the installation. Note that the sway bar end is parallel to the ground = optimal geometry.

Si/Integra and 87-88 accord end links for ID.

Accord link with mounting shaft attached through the eyelet.

Cut the shaft from the sway bar eylet mounting bracket at the weld between the two parts.

Grind/remove the excess weld around shaft and bracket. Grind away the weld on the surface of the bracket until you see the circular outline of the shaft. This small section of shaft should either drop out or you may have to use a punch to gently knock it free. The arrow points to the hole left by this section.

Check for fitament of the shaft into the bracket hole.

Remove the powder coat from the link bracket and shaft. Adjust (test fit)
the length of the shaft and trim excess.

Two links ready for welding. Prior to welding position the bar bracket and LCA mount stem eylets so that they are oriented at 90' to each other.

The two modified accord end links welded and ready for installation.
They could now be called honda wagon end links.

New sway bar link mount threaded into a LCA.

The mount removed.

Grind the thicker diameter of the shaft so that it is equal to the smaller diameter closest to the threaded end. This enables the link eylet to slide up to the hex nut on the shaft. I rotated the shaft on an angle grinder to perform this task. You can also use a bench top grinder.

Link attached to machined shaft.

Finally, the link and mount attached to the LCA. A spacer/washers can be intalled to take up the gap left by the ground shaft. You can also tap the threaded end of the shaft to compensate.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The link mounting shaft attaches to a cast tab protruding from the LCA. On the stock vehicle that tab is oriented towards the front of the vehicle. The link attaches, of course, infront of the LCA. It is necessary to position this tab in the reamost position. To do this install the LCAs in their opposite positions as marked on the arm.
The geometry and dimensions are the same. Check yourself to make sure you have the correct arm for the job.

The final installation of sway bar, brackets, shims, end links and LCAs.
Note: This set-up will mount directly to a 1988 LCA.
Additional information will be edited into this information using
stock LCAs with the same accord links--fabricated to fit.
In this set-up does not require an interchange LCA and the link
mounting shaft is not ground to fit--less expense.
If you are unable to fabricate the endlinks, I may be able to assist you.
Feel free to contact.

Differences between the Manual and Power steering racks!

vtecn8ive — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 23:15:27 +0000

Here are some pictures of the differences, you can tell right away there is a BIG weight difference:

Here is the mount that has a different diameter. The Passenger side mount is larger on the power steering.
I used a Crx Si front rear subframe. From my understanding all EF's front subframes are the same. The only difference is if its power steering or manual steering, and then it comes down to that mount.

1984 Civic Shuttle Wagon fwd - Rear brakes

Aussie_Shuttle — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 09:45:15 +0000

Hi all,

I am the proud owner of a wonderfully factory fresh Shuttle, but I have an issue I hope you guys can help with.

My rear wheel bearings were getting noisy so I ordered some replacement hubs.

While it was that far a part I figured I might as well replace the rear brakes.

Order all the stuff, no worries, until I went to fit them.

Seems the sedan, hatch and coupe share the same rear shoes and drums, but not my wagon.

Now, only 400 wagons were sold in Australia new, so the spares shop doesn't have a listing for parts and had no idea.

After a few measurements, it seems like my wagon has the same vintage Accord drums and shoes?

Can anyone confirm this or the correct part number for drums and shoes for my AK, 1984/5 Honda Civic Shuttle wagon.

I've added some pics of UMY (483,500ks - 300433miles and going strong) and the difference between my drums and the new one they sent.

Struts for stock ride height

91honda33 — Sun, 22 Dec 2024 04:19:15 +0000

looking For some struts/coilovers that will keep my 89 wagon stock. Could I use integra struts in the rear and cut the springs? For the front can I use the same wagon springs and buy sedan shocks, both front and rear are gone. I would be into buying coilovers if I could stay stock

TIA!

1991 Struts

1991civicwagon — Sat, 16 Nov 2024 01:20:47 +0000

Looking to replace the original struts on my 1991 wagon. I would like to keep the original ride height and driving characteristics. I don't seem to be able to find anything to replace the original struts. Any suggestions?

Anyone running DC/EG coilovers on 2wd

wagoneerer — Mon, 25 Mar 2024 20:56:36 +0000

How do you like it? What are the limitations? What did you have to do to make it work?

2wd suspension in 2022

wagoneerer — Fri, 11 Nov 2022 14:29:32 +0000

Hwy folks just picked up a 2wd..great car but the rear end is clunky and i have a cracked front spring. Wondering what the budget options are for direct replacement for 2 scenarios:

1. Factory Honda options: as springs and shocks are no longer available and there arent many aftermarket options, what CRX or DA Integra options work? Either for stock ride height or slight drop.

2. Aftermarket kits: might be similar to above but since coilovers are adjustable, im thinking there are more options that will work with these cars...ive gone through the suspension setup thread but no one really lists specifics in terms of manufacturers model # and many options are no longer available (ie tokico, etc)

Thanks for any help.

replacement brake caliper mounting bracket?

stankfoot1209 — Mon, 12 Feb 2024 21:30:52 +0000

so this might be too specific but i was replacing a broken motor mount on my wagon and after finally getting everything that broke replaced i realized that the previous owner used the wrong bolt in the mounting bracket and completely stripped all the threads. i found one bracket that looks kind of identical but i dont thing that it’s going to fit. does anyone know of a replacement that works well to order? or if autozone or a local auto parts store would carry one

RT4WD tire and wheel fitment

negativearth — Wed, 23 Dec 2020 00:33:07 +0000

I just picked up a '91 RT4WD, check my post in new user intros for more info.

I would like to get some 15x6 or 15x7 wheels and taller/wider tires. Not going super swamper, not wanting to lift the suspension, just maybe a 195/65 tire that's preferably 3PMSF.

I like basket weaves, and TIre Rack indicated the Enkei 92 in 15x7 with +38mm offset will fit. Just wondering about that tire size on a wheel like that. Thanks!

Suspension Techniques ST Rear Sway Bar 51140

GymLeaderTaylor — Thu, 24 Aug 2023 23:25:29 +0000

I couldn't find enough info but what do I all need to install the Suspension Techniques ST Rear Sway Bar 51140 on a 90-91 Civic Wagon FWD? And is it a pretty big improvement on handling? My car is a daily driver and I just enjoy zipping around the mountain roads so anything that would help tighten up the handling would be great!

Really appreciate any help as I've read a ton but couldn't get an exact answer on what parts I need to install this bar.

Need some help

Otacon — Fri, 02 Nov 2018 16:55:08 +0000

Hey guys, so I have searched but I cant seem to find what Im looking for.

So I have a 91 RT4wd and the rear diff mounts ripped out of the body! My plan now is to just remove all of the 4wd components. Besides the trans.
Will this be okay to drive it without the diff, driveshaft, and rear axles out? Thanks in advance for any help/links!

rear brakes: proper function question

~rf~ — Sun, 10 Feb 2019 10:56:28 +0000

After sitting for several years with some brake issues that are listed in earlier posts, I finally resolved my brake issue on my '89 wagon. I was sold the wrong wheel cylinders for the wagon. I have recently found new old stock wagon wheel cylinders and installed them, bled the brake lines, and I now have a good firm brake pedal and the car stops good.... almost to good. It has been so long since I drove it with decent brakes and I can't remember how they should respond.

When I get the car rolling at about 5-10 MPH, and hit the brakes pretty hard (like you would have to do in a hard brake situation) both of the rear wheels skid.
Is this how the rear brakes should work?
I just need a refresher.

Thanks
Frank

Help, 91 No front brakes, but rears work fine

Babadook — Tue, 10 Aug 2021 17:12:58 +0000

Ive searched online and can't really find much helpful info for this year. I'm having a problem where the front brakes aren't working. At all. Press the brakes and wheel still turns from the fronts. Press the brakes and the backs tighten like they should. I get fluid coming from the lines to the front calipers, but after one pump of trying to bleed the brakes I don't get any fluid coming out at all. (Both sides) I tried to bleed each side at least 10 times and still nothing. I'm using the 2 man bleeding technique where one pushes the pedal and the other looses/tightens the bleeder screw. Still no front brakes. The master cylinder is always full and never lower then minimum when doing the bleeding. There seemed to have been a leak from the mc to the brake booster, but it doesn't leak anymore, Has signs of rust from where it leaked from previously, But no sings of leakage now. I looked over the brake lines for any leaks and/or rusted lines but nothing I can tell. I do have a minor vacuum leak from the brake booster as well tho, when you press on the brakes the idle goes lower and sounds like it misfires.

I also did a change of calipers that worked from a previous car and still no front brakes. I'm kinda more them stumped. Should I flush the system with new fluid? Did I do the bleeding process wrong? Is my master cylinder seals damaged from the inside? Should I look into the proportioning valve? Is the minor vacuum leak the main cause of my front brakes not working??

Again back brakes work fine, they are drum brakes. This is a automatic fwd wagon and the emergency brake has been cut also, not plugged.

Any thoughts?

Rear lower control arm

91honda33 — Mon, 07 Jun 2021 19:11:04 +0000

i got an 89 rt4wd trying to get it back to stock ride height. Will the rear lower control arms work from the Honda Civic sedans, I think they work on the fwd models of wagons. Thx.

(EE/EY/EF) Brake Upgrade Discussion

Haydz — Tue, 20 Dec 2005 16:08:43 +0000

Hi all... for the most part, the front end of the 4th gen wagon is the same as the 4th gen Hatchback/3nd gen CRX in terms of suspension and braking.

Street car with occasional events:

1) Semi-race pads. Keep in mind that full race pads do not work until they are hot, which is why they are not a good choice on a street/daily driven ride. Seeing as the Wagon has Drum rear brakes, i would advise having semi-race grade shoes made, this can be done by a good brake shop if you give them your old set to use for measurements.

2) Slotted rotors/discs. I would recommend slotted rotors over drilled rotors as drilled rotors have a tendancy to warp on street/daily driven cars. Slotted rotors will still provide you with a clean brake surface and not risk warping or cracking.

3) Steel Braided Brake Lines. The Wagon uses the same replacements as the Hatchback and CRX. These improve braking response and ensure safety under hard braking.

4) High performance DOT 4/5 race brake fluid. It is not reccommended to use DOT5 fluid unless you have the above mentioned upgrades.

You can go as far as using a big-brake upgrade kit on the front and converting the rear to discs but on the street this would be money wasted, unless you are doing it for looks. However if you are a regular auto-crosser or track racer then a 'big brake kit' may be your best choice.

Wheel offset for 16x7??

wagon_kid_dyl — Wed, 23 Dec 2020 00:21:42 +0000

I have 4wd 89 wagon and I want to buy wheels and tires for it. I want to get 16x7s but don't know which offset range would be safe for me to not rub. I'm currently only running coilovers. Anyone else running a similar set up? Pics would help. And tire sizes too. Thank you.

Wheel noob 84 wagovan

Wagovan84 — Thu, 13 Aug 2020 22:02:28 +0000

Hey everyone my names Barry I’m new here and wanted to see if you guys could help educate me regarding my wheel set up. I recently picked up a 1984 Honda Wagovan. It’s a 3rd gen civic produced from 84-87. Besides the diameter and bolt pattern I know very little about choosing after market wheels. It would be awesome if someone could give me a wheel 101 tutorial so I know what I need to look for when I go shopping for shoes.

Rear sway bar

buddhawagon — Thu, 23 Apr 2020 00:15:20 +0000

Any ideas on how to mount rear sway bar from a DA teg or civic ef?

88 Civic Wagon Suspension

cjwang2 — Wed, 15 Jan 2020 03:32:05 +0000

I have added 15's (Integra Fat Fives) to my new 88 RT wagon and it seems very high, like I can fit my whole hand between the wheel and fender. I have been toying with the idea of doing a subtle drop, maybe an inch or so, a little lower than stock, but definitely not slammed. In doing research and looking through the Suspension Discussion thread i see that I can use 88 EF stock shocks with DA springs, with maybe some cutting. I also noticed there was a thread on suspension set ups and what other users used and what they thought. It was kind of an older thread and i wondered if anyone had newer information or reviews and could shed some light on Truhart Street Plus coil overs? They are not too expensive and I can adjust the drop. I drive the car mostly via the highway for commuting, occasionally driving down rough back roads if the main highway is too clogged. I do not plan on doing any racing or other fast driving. I value comfort more than being able to go fast around corners. I also do not want to mess up the RT AWD.

I appreciate all your help.

Best brand of ball joint for Wagon

SoulEngineering — Sat, 02 Nov 2019 18:40:28 +0000

I'll be doing a write up of what all has been done to my wagon in the near future once I get photo hosting figured out that is not silly photo bucket. To the point of this thread though. I'm looking to see what lower ball joints you all have had the most luck with. My wagon makes good power. About 340 at the wheels, and all of the rest of the suspension is from Hardrace and I am about to finish it off with Fortune Auto 500's. I've replaced many ball joints over the years, and have normally used Moog for most of those replacements because they have been trustworthy to last. What have you all used with higher horsepower FWD wagons, or even track/autox cars that will stand up to the extra strain created by racing a car. It won't be very low or stanced, but will be lowered a bit. Maybe an inch gap above the tires or so. Maybe more. Depends on how the weight comes out on the scales.

Anyway, what are your recommendations on lower ball joints? What have you used with great success?

15x6 cobalt steel wheels?!?

90silverwago — Thu, 21 Feb 2019 19:47:11 +0000

Im in the process of lifting my wagon, I really like the steel wheels look but dont want to buy Bassett steelies...... I found that 06-10 Chevy cobalts have a 4x100 15x6 steel wheel with a 65.1 center bore and a 12 or 18 vent set up. I figure with some hub rings you could have a 215/75/15. Has anyone tried this? I would also really like to keep my center caps too. Let me know!

Front wheel hub issues...

DomoHonda — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 22:43:07 +0000

What up wagoneers. I recently got a flat tire and decided to replace the wheel bearings. Driver side had no problem. When I did the passengers side, dude at Car Quest machine shop told me the hub was worn down and pressing in a new bearing wouldn't help much. Suggested I get a new wheel hub.

So on my way to the junkyard, had my brother look for cross compatability online. Saw an ad on ebay for front wheel hub and cross compatabily with all 88-91 civics and crxs. Sounded good to me. Long story short, got 90 crx hub at junker, wrong size(inner diameter was much smaller). Drove me nuts, went back, snuck in original wagon hub(not allowed by many junkers) and tested it with other honda hubs. Found out that my 91 wagon hub fit 97 civic front axle. I presume the hub would be same size(couldn't take off most hubs since I couldn't stop axle from turning cuz brakes wouldn't engage). Finally found an 90 civic, not crx, without axle and brakes, popped off the hub and checked it with original and looks right. Will know monday.

So, of course you're going to say, don't trust ebay, so moral of the story, don't trust ebay and their compatability charts. I would like to know what other civic hubs are compatible with a 91 2wd wagon. From what I can tell 88-91 civics and it seems like 92-00 civics, integras 90-93 too, but not sure. Maybe someone else has more facts for me and others so no one will have to go through what I went through.

need tire recommendations

ricards2 — Thu, 09 May 2019 19:31:48 +0000

Will buy new tires in 205/45/16 size and I'm thinking of getting the Kumho kh16 because of the deal I saw at 4wheelonline. Does anyone have experience with this tire? If you have other suggestions, let me know. Thanks.

Bagging / Air Ride on a wagon Q's

monster d — Sun, 02 Nov 2014 22:57:05 +0000

So I am in the process of building my RT wagon. I planned on putting in on air. I bought Air Struts from AirLift for their 92-00 civic applications. I figured their would not be any difference, just get eg front forks and I should be fine. Well, on the contrary, I found out the wagon suspension is 3 inches taller then all the other EF's which makes the rear of a wagon look like stock height at 0 psi. Keep in mind that this is with AirLift air struts. I know d2 and k sport makes a set of air struts that will work fine, but they are wayyyy to expensive, which is the reason why I went for an alternative. So to make these Air Struts work I am being told I need to extend my strut towers, which I am a little sketched out about doing. I would like to make that my last resort.

So my main question is does anyone know if there is another company that sells air struts, at a reasonable price, that will work for the wagon application.

By the way, I have called AirBagIt.com and they said they could make a kit for my wagon for $500-600, but I still do not think he understand the problem that I was running into to.

Any help or information would be very helpful!

Thanks!

Cheers

A new kind of RTA bushing. Thoughts?

quarters — Sat, 21 Jul 2018 05:52:18 +0000

so I am going to order these. I have thought about it at length and I believe these to be a solid design that checks all the boxes. I had never seen these before yesterday.

1. easy to install.
2. the slits allow for proper deflection of the pivot rod unlike prothane/es
3. cost
4. even if they are not awesome, it will be better than torn one.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT942

getting rims for the wagon

EVILEMPIRE — Mon, 27 Aug 2018 22:35:43 +0000

sorry if this has been posted before but are [FONT="] 15X8 4X100 +0 [/FONT][FONT="]to wide for a wagon? or will it fit perfectly within the fenders [/FONT]

All around street performance suspension set-up.

Tadas — Sun, 14 Jun 2015 12:25:54 +0000

Hello,

Since I am building my wagon I do have many lingering questions, so I am sorry ahead of time for asking so much.

However, I did search all over the forum, but there are only a few old threads of track oriented wagons.

Or there is both positive and negative info about certain things.

First, my wagon is a 4wd one, and it is a fairly light vehicle, and has good weight distribution (55/45), so it inherently should handle pretty well.

There also is not much weight in front to make it understeer like crazy with the right set up.

My plan would be to try and make the wagon nimble, and have a neutral or maybe even a little oversteery behaviour in the corners.

These are the parts I have purchased and waiting for them to get to me for install:

- rota rkr 15x8 et0 wheels wrapped in 225/50-15" tires (more tire = more grip. But later on I might go for toyo proxies).
- SK import lca + rear camber kit.
- SK import UCA camber kit.
- Front upper strut brace.
- Weitec springs and shocks from 5th gen hatch ( used item, a KW branch, german when new $600+ usd kit, got it for $110, should be good? ).

Things that I consider buying:

- rear upper strut tower brace: read mixed opinions, also read that most of the time they do NOT fit, and if it is adjustable one then it sucks from the get go.
- rear swaybar. Read that it ought to help. Also read that it needs modification to fit and work.

Please give your opinion, I will go on and experiment with various set ups and mods, because I believe our platform is ultra cool and has potential.