I know this has been asked several times before, but is there now a limited-slip differential (LSD) available for the front transmission of the Honda Wagonvan RT4WD? I don't want a phantom grip.

VTEC operation- someone claims they wired up a shift light to the solenoid to crudely activate the VTEC at a chosen RPM, which sounds redneck but I'm not above trying it if it won't damage anything. As for more official ways I found an old chipped OBD0 ECU (CRX Si PM6-A09) on eBay, would that be plug and play? Looks like RT ECUs are part number PM6-A18. I can't think of much that would be different about them for engine operation though.

I know the end game might be a swap to OBDI or OBDII, but is more time and money.

There's stock reman Y8 heads on eBay for $750, like this one. That's what I counted on a machine shop costing for the work on the A6 anyway.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/205925964958

And the chipped OBD0 ECU.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/167479086819

Thoughts appreciated, thanks!

Put on a few hundred kms and then noticed a metallic clatter, scraping sound coming from the motor. My dudt shields are not attached and this happens whatever gear im, standing or not...its completely RPM dependent.

https://www.veed.io/view/3e784519-57a4-4eb2-834d-2449715dd714?panel=share

Sometimes it gets quite loud but generally very similar to what i recorded. I believe its the original motor ans trans with 284,000kms, 5spd.

I'm looking to possibly do a stage 1 cam upgrade while I'm replacing the timing belt and doing some other repairs in the next year. There seems to be none made for the A6 but there's plenty for the Y8 and Z6, and some evidence that maybe those VTEC cams can be used in the earlier non-VTECs. I have seen a few claims of that on forums and this Skunk2 lists 88-91 under fitment specs.

And I had seen something when searching about someone using this Comp cam in an A6.

Those both might be a little aggressive because otherwise I only plan on doing a header and maybe an intake manifold. If these VTEC cams would work I'd probably go with something like this Blox stage 1.

I also came across something about needing a variable cam gear to advance the timing when running these cams, but can't verify that either. Any clarity on this is appreciated. I'm open to suggestions too. I've never put a more aggressive cam in anything. Not racing, just would be fun to have more pep in my daily.

Thanks!

I recently came into possession of a project 1991 dx wagon that has been "swapped" with a d15b6 with mpfi. I am confused as to the wiring that needs to be done. I have both the harness for the new engine and the harness from the original engine and was wondering what be best course of action would be. Which harness should I install and then begin splicing wires into? Additionally, are there any resources here or elsewhere that might allow me do some additional research? Thank you.

And speaking of resurrecting, it's kinda nice to see that this place is still around after all these years and that my account still works!

I've never actually driven a civic wagon, only honda I've ever owned was a 96 Del Sol.

Anyway.... what sort of RPM do these sit at for highway speeds? Say, 60-70mph, are they in the 3500-4000 range? This has the 6 speed manual and a D15a2 I think? Not even sure about the original engine. I hear some talk of being able to modify the transmission for a longer 5th gear, which might be necessary. My 2005 Pontiac Vibe does 75mph at about 2900 rpm, helped slightly by the fact that I've got larger than stock tires, which may also be a go-to strategy for the higher end speeds on the Civic.

Hopefully this forum is still in use, it has helped me out a ton throughout the years.

Currently in the stage of replacing everything in the wagon. Just got the driveline fully rebuilt, new u-joints, carrier bearings, rebuilt VC and Rear Diff by TrustFab.

All things are good, but I still have nasty vibrations. Figured out my engine mounts are virtually useless and I have about 3-4" of driveline/engine movement when under high rpms.

Ordered new innovation engine mounts and was looking to replace them but to even get to them it seems like replacing the engine would be easiest. I have a 60k mile d16a6 waiting to be installed.

With all this in mind, It's probably best if I do the swap. I'm wanting to replace the clutch but am unsure if it will mate with my spline, or if the T/O bearing will be the correct size, 2wd vs 4wd diameters.

I have a spare RT transmission, unsure of the year, need to count the splines, may use that one instead of the existing tranny that is in the car still. Wanted to see what people have used so I don't have to order twice and wait a while due to obtaining the wrong parts.

Can post pics in the future but wanted to get this out.

Thanks!

-Nate

Tools you’ll need

For the Driveshaft/Viscous Coupler

•Ratchet

•17mm Socket

•14mm Socket

•12mm Socket

•10mm 12 point Wrench

•32mm Socket 

•Pry Bar

•Snap Ring Pliers internal/external 

•Pulley puller 

•Blind hole bearing puller

•Hook/Pick tool

•6 point  Torx bit

•access to a press if you can

•Brake cleaner a lot of it or some other penetration oil

Parts you’ll need

McMaster.com

•Quad Rings Part # 90025K405

•Large O Ring Part # 9262K778

Ebay or Amazon or anywhere else you can find them

•Ball Bearing 6005LU or 6005LLB (quantity one)

•Needle Nose Dimension 38x48x15 (quantity one)

•Fluid from Instagram Turbo_2nr (if you want to save time you can buy a full rebuilt kit instead on his Instagram) Turbo2nrs.com

First things first take the driveshaft off.

Second dissemble the Viscous Coupler from the Dirveshaft

Once you take off the 10mm 12point bolts stand the VC up and unbolt the 32mm nut that’s holding the carrier bearing

once that 32mm nut is taken out use a pulley puller to get the flange, carrier bearing and shields off the VC make sure to use B’laster or some other type of penetration oil

use Some type of penetration oil, these are The shields that need to get taken off the shaft

Soak clean repeat with the penetration oil, you may need a lot depending how rusty it is, I let it sit for couple days cleaned off the rust as much as I can

I went to take off the main snap ring but it was seized on there really good no matter how much penetration oil i used, i also used a torch to try to loosen it, it wasn’t budging at all I needed a little extra help from a coworker who torched the snap ring used a punch with a hammer to try to move it out of place then he got pliers squeezed them and used the hammer to give it a little extra it finally broke loose

Once finally out I turned the VC over use snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings

Once the snap rings are out. If you can’t pull the shaft out by hand use a press to push the shaft out from the bottom of the VC be careful get ready for it to come out and make sure to catch it. It will slip out fast almost lost it myself.

Once the shaft is out look on the bottom of the VC and you’ll see a single free disc take it out clean it set it on the side (this disc will be the 1st one back in the VC once that times comes)

Once you set that single disc on the side remove the ball bearing, O ring and the 6 point torx screw Make sure to clean the VC thoroughly and make sure it’s clean

Now that the VC is clean and new o ring, bearing, 6 point Torx screw and snap ring are in set it aside and move to the shaft

Look on the bottom of the shaft you’ll see a snap ring take it off and the Disc will be free to slide out

put that snap ring next to the single free disc that was at the bottom of the VC (there will be two sets one is at the bottom of the shaft of the VC and the other is on top of the shaft of VC make sure you separate them)

Time to take out the disc from the shaft some disc might get stuck on the top of the shaft make sure you have all disc out, The disc that you see in the bottom picture is a single free flouting like the other one that was in the bottom of the VC, take that disc set it to the side that’ll be the last one to be put in.

There’s another snap ring on top of the shaft take that out and put it next to the disc that you just put aside

Now take the top off the shaft, it should just pop off with ease

when you get the top off start to remove the three O rings and needle nose bearing

Make sure to take out the snap ring from the top of the needle bearing, remove the needle nose bearing with the blind bearing puller

blind bearing puller is a little tricky to install under the needle nose bearing

This tool comes with a slide hammer I say if you have a 2.5 or 5Ibs cast iron round weight for a little extra hit

Clean the top and install the new needle nose bearing and 3 O Rings

Next clean the shaft and remember the first set disc and snap ring we set aside from earlier now they come Into play

the disc and snap ring that was at the bottom of the VC

put the inner snap ring on the bottom of the shaft and put it in the VC casing and install the snap ring on the bottom outer of the VC casing once you’ve done that

Now flip the VC upright pour a little bit of fluid before you install the first disc. Make sure when you install the disc’s back in they’re lined up with the correct outer/inner Groove and install in the correct order remember the very very 1st disc is the the disc with the slit with outer Groove

After you installed this disc in the picture above, start to clean the disc’s/rings one by one (i cleaned them one by one it’ll be faster if you just threw all of them in a drain oil pan and cleaned them all at once) in a little bucket with penetration oil you need to make sure the discs/rings go in this order from bottom to top

1st circle disc with inner grooves

2nd ring

3rd disc with slits and outer groove

they have to go in this order make sure you don’t mix them up or misplace a ring

It’s a slow process but ever set of disc/ring I used a flat head or you can use a CLEAN straight 3’ exhaust pipe and add fluid every set you out in make sure the fluid is always on top of each set of disc/ring

Once you’re done there should be one disc/snap ring left that we set aside that was on the top of the shaft that looks like this (yes there were two sets one on the bottom and top) make sure you put the snap ring in first that holds down all the disc’s, then add the last disc make sure it’s sitting in there properly in the grooves just like the bottom disc it just flouts

it should look like the picture in the bottom, yes you’ll see all those little bubbles that’s just air pockets escaping let gravity takes its course I covered it and let this VC settle overnight

It should look like this the following day no air pockets anymore

Put the top on the VC

Make sure to get the Main snap Ring around the top of the VC before you Get the press ready don’t press it yet

you’ll need to unscrew the torx screws completely out in order to breath the system out

once you unscrewed the torxs out, press the top down slowly you’ll see a decent amount of fluid to come out at the same time watch the top so you can put the main snap ring back in place after that screw in the torx screws back in I had a drain Pan under the Viscous Coupler to catch the fluid

Now install the shields back on. Finally it’s all set and done. Congratulations you just rebuilt your Viscous Coupler ???

I hope I covered everything and hopefully all you found this helpful with the info I provided, if you have any questions leave a comment and I’ll help you out. Thank you for reading have a great day ?

This is the right side mount I got.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/beckarnley-104-1106

Help appreciated, thanks.

Long time no see! I'm back and this time I am back with a '91 RTI Auto wagon :o I just recently bought this and I found out that the oil pan has a gnarly leak. Of course I would like to fix this. I am hoping to get this done without pulling the trans. From what I read, you can get the oil pan out if your remove the transfer case?

I was hoping someone on here could shed some more light on how to remove the transfer case. Also I am assuming I will need to drain the transmission? I was also wonder does the transfer case have it's on type of fluid? or does it utilize the fluid in the transmission or? Does the transfer case have a seal...do I need to buy this seal or use hondabond?

Any info would be awesome! I'm going to start tackling this job tonight and I'd like to have it done by Sunday.

I am on IG if someone would like to DM me there for faster conversation 'Swagonwago' it's an old name...don't give me shit for it lol.

1. – Motor
2. – Hydraulic Tranny (Y80, S80,S4C)
3. – ECU (P75)
4. – Axles
5. – Shift Linkage
6. – Stock Motor Mounts
7. – Alternator
8. – Starter
9. – Clutch
10. – Flywheel
11. – Intake Manifold
12. – Exhaust Manifold
13. – Fuel Rail
14. – Injectors
15. – Distributor
16. – Partial Engine Harness
17. – Comes With All Sensors Needed

Question 1 - This essentially makes everything a 94-01 Integra LS right? Last thing I want is to deal with confusion at Autozone on a fuel pump, plugs, etc. I know I need to do the auto to manual swap, but is there anything big missing from this list? Hub assembly 94-01 Teg? If the motor and tran are coming together is there any reason to worry about a hydro to cable conversion?

Question 2 - I have very basic mechanical knowledge, nothing as big as this. I have a brother who is willing to help who has built an old school 400, swapped trans, a lot more knowledge than myself. With the access to pre-made wiring harness etc. is this something that I really need to take into a shop for? I'm 300+ miles from the closest shop who could do this work and every shop has good and bad reviews. I was quoted $1200 for the swap and the auto to man conversion, plus long towing that would probably be in the range of $1200 to get it down there and back. It feels like there is so much info on the web and kits to make things easier that paying $2,500~ to tow-swap-tow is just wasting cash.

Thanks for any feedback.