I've used this thread so everyone can be a part of the R&D of these parts, but i've now made a for sale thread in the parts forum which will now have all the details for purchasing:
This is an embed external element. It can be deleted using the delete key or the backspace key. To view the full element, press the preview button below.
Thanks to this thread, I'm on track to get my driveshaft serviced. Ordered the u-joints and getting the carrier bearings next pay period.
One question though, can our wagons be driven without the driveshaft installed? I work 7 days a week usually so it might take me a few days to get it finished. If it doesn't hurt the transmission, I'd rather drive the car over my old Econoline that gets pretty bad gas mileage.
This is an embed external element. It can be deleted using the delete key or the backspace key. To view the full element, press the preview button below.
Thanks to this thread, I'm on track to get my driveshaft serviced. Ordered the u-joints and getting the carrier bearings next pay period.
One question though, can our wagons be driven without the driveshaft installed? I work 7 days a week usually so it might take me a few days to get it finished. If it doesn't hurt the transmission, I'd rather drive the car over my old Econoline that gets pretty bad gas mileage.
Yes you can drive without the driveshaft nothing will happen to the transmission or the rear differential
Finally started digging into the driveshaft service. The shaft has been out of the car for some time. The rear U-joint was pretty wasted and looks like it took the yoke down with it. Does anyone know if these are the same yokes as the 1st gen CRV? Figured that might widen the spectrum for trying to find a replacement. If anyone has an RT yoke they'd part with, let me know.
One the bright side the carrier bearings from EF Boss went on nicely.
Had a friend weld on the yoke to fill in the damaged part and used a Dremel tool to shape it. Turned out pretty decent, 430-10C u-joint fits tight and circlip has a better surface to rest on. Test driven up to 80 and everything seems good. Way more solid with the EF Boss carrier bearings too, even though my diff bushings are still pretty tired.
This is an embed external element. It can be deleted using the delete key or the backspace key. To view the full element, press the preview button below.
Had a friend weld on the yoke to fill in the damaged part and used a Dremel tool to shape it. Turned out pretty decent, 430-10C u-joint fits tight and circlip has a better surface to rest on. Test driven up to 80 and everything seems good. Way more solid with the EF Boss carrier bearings too, even though my diff bushings are still pretty tired.
Comments
:encouragement:
3rd set shipped out.
https://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?21001-EF-RT4WD-carrier-bearings&p=237705#post237705
Cheers.
when can i order this parts from please update me
email--- row350k@gmail.com
Sorry i can't edit my posts for whatever reason. I now sell these through my website:
www.efbossgarage.com
Thanks to this thread, I'm on track to get my driveshaft serviced. Ordered the u-joints and getting the carrier bearings next pay period.
One question though, can our wagons be driven without the driveshaft installed? I work 7 days a week usually so it might take me a few days to get it finished. If it doesn't hurt the transmission, I'd rather drive the car over my old Econoline that gets pretty bad gas mileage.
Yes you can drive without the driveshaft nothing will happen to the transmission or the rear differential
Finally started digging into the driveshaft service. The shaft has been out of the car for some time. The rear U-joint was pretty wasted and looks like it took the yoke down with it. Does anyone know if these are the same yokes as the 1st gen CRV? Figured that might widen the spectrum for trying to find a replacement. If anyone has an RT yoke they'd part with, let me know.
One the bright side the carrier bearings from EF Boss went on nicely.
Had a friend weld on the yoke to fill in the damaged part and used a Dremel tool to shape it. Turned out pretty decent, 430-10C u-joint fits tight and circlip has a better surface to rest on. Test driven up to 80 and everything seems good. Way more solid with the EF Boss carrier bearings too, even though my diff bushings are still pretty tired.
Glad you got it fixed the yoke and yes the efboss carrier bearings are a must