Gsr crv swapped Rt back on the road.
turbo_teg
Council Member
Bought this wagon almost 2 years ago blown up and put a z6 with a Jackson superchager in and it just wasnt enough power for me so after coming across a sweet deal on a GSR motor and CRV trans swap I decided to do the swap. My grammer and spelling suck so deal with it but heres some of the highlights.
After removing the old supercharged single cam I got the crv trans and a mock-up bare b16 block in the car to do a lil test fit. The drivers side mount is just a standard b swap mount for an EF so you have a good starting point to get ya heading in the right direction with building the other 2 mounts.
First thing I noticed was the rear crossmemember need a lil messaging with a BFH to clear the trans. After soending a lil time making sure the engine was level and square I made a temporary mount to let me hang the motor and work on building the rear mount to get the proper lean to the engine.
With the engine tilted to get the flange of the driveline coming out straight I chopped up the crv rear mount and tacked it together while in the car. I later cut it and moved it again so this isnt the final rendition but you get the idea. The rear mount on the crossmemeber is just a regular b-series ef swap mount.
After that I chopped up and made a more proper passenger side mount.
At this point theres a few steps that can be done different ways. I realy wanted to use a hush hydro conversion but an innovative remote mounted clutch master was a cheaper and easier way to go and its working great with a lil adjusting. For the speedo I had also wanted to do an DC integra cluster swap and keep the electronic speedo but I was in a hurry so I put a mechanical speed sensor in and notch the shifter cable bracket to make it fit. Axles are still the same stock rt4wd front axles they worked great. Crv header almost lines up. I had to cut it and turn it maybe a 1/4 inch and it was perfect.
Before I forget I used a 90-93 integra 5 speed half shaft!! Anyways onto the shifter. My last crv trans seapped wagon I bought from shay used the wagon shifter and cavles with a nodofied crv trans cable bracket. This car I decided using the entire crv shifter and shift cables was the best/easiest to do since I dont have an easy way to weld aluminum.
Okay were gettin close of course theres tons of other lil odds and ends that are common in a d to b seap in an EF like besting the unibody to fit the alternator, fitting a throttle cable, getting the correct fuel line to the rail from the filter blah blah blah im sure most of yall can do that stuff.
So the last step and this is how I did mine and if ya wanna be a fag and talk shit about not using the CRV driveline and rear diff well go eat a bag of dicks the ratios and close enough it will be fine im sure. So I had my neighbor help me build an aluminum adapter then had the wagon driveline shortened and ballanced. Ive driven the car about 200 miles since it was finished. Well when i mean finished its running and driving the next step is gather some turbo parts and shoot for about 300+whp because why not??? Again my spelling and grammer suck and im tired as shit writing this up. I dont get on here much but i know not all you are on facebook so I figured I would share. Please feel free to ask any questions and ill do my best to answer them.
After removing the old supercharged single cam I got the crv trans and a mock-up bare b16 block in the car to do a lil test fit. The drivers side mount is just a standard b swap mount for an EF so you have a good starting point to get ya heading in the right direction with building the other 2 mounts.
First thing I noticed was the rear crossmemember need a lil messaging with a BFH to clear the trans. After soending a lil time making sure the engine was level and square I made a temporary mount to let me hang the motor and work on building the rear mount to get the proper lean to the engine.
With the engine tilted to get the flange of the driveline coming out straight I chopped up the crv rear mount and tacked it together while in the car. I later cut it and moved it again so this isnt the final rendition but you get the idea. The rear mount on the crossmemeber is just a regular b-series ef swap mount.
After that I chopped up and made a more proper passenger side mount.
At this point theres a few steps that can be done different ways. I realy wanted to use a hush hydro conversion but an innovative remote mounted clutch master was a cheaper and easier way to go and its working great with a lil adjusting. For the speedo I had also wanted to do an DC integra cluster swap and keep the electronic speedo but I was in a hurry so I put a mechanical speed sensor in and notch the shifter cable bracket to make it fit. Axles are still the same stock rt4wd front axles they worked great. Crv header almost lines up. I had to cut it and turn it maybe a 1/4 inch and it was perfect.
Before I forget I used a 90-93 integra 5 speed half shaft!! Anyways onto the shifter. My last crv trans seapped wagon I bought from shay used the wagon shifter and cavles with a nodofied crv trans cable bracket. This car I decided using the entire crv shifter and shift cables was the best/easiest to do since I dont have an easy way to weld aluminum.
Okay were gettin close of course theres tons of other lil odds and ends that are common in a d to b seap in an EF like besting the unibody to fit the alternator, fitting a throttle cable, getting the correct fuel line to the rail from the filter blah blah blah im sure most of yall can do that stuff.
So the last step and this is how I did mine and if ya wanna be a fag and talk shit about not using the CRV driveline and rear diff well go eat a bag of dicks the ratios and close enough it will be fine im sure. So I had my neighbor help me build an aluminum adapter then had the wagon driveline shortened and ballanced. Ive driven the car about 200 miles since it was finished. Well when i mean finished its running and driving the next step is gather some turbo parts and shoot for about 300+whp because why not??? Again my spelling and grammer suck and im tired as shit writing this up. I dont get on here much but i know not all you are on facebook so I figured I would share. Please feel free to ask any questions and ill do my best to answer them.
Comments
I was just wondering about leveling the motor. I'm going to make a custom mount for the passenger side for my auto/manual swap and was wondering if the motor was 0* level as OEM or if it has some slight cant to it.
build
!!!
I didn't know that a 5 speed was even an option in a CRV. So mounts wise you had to custom the rear and what about the side tranny mount, is it custom too?
A CRV rear T bracket is the best option because a standard integra teat T bracket 90-93 and 94-01 will not bolt to the crv trans because the bolt patter is a lil different.
yes the passenger side trans mount started out as a regular steel innovative mount. I chopped it up and built the mount to fit.