then later on i went to 711 and went to start my car and a giant puff of white smoke. the head gasket was only done about a month ago and 1067 miles driven not sure what the hell is going on to be honest but its getting to me
Damn i hope it's nothing big. That happened to me when i started up my wagon But my engine was burning oil and i don't have a muffler on my exhaust stopped right by the hanger by the back right tire and there was that black splatter behind my bumper and sometimes on the floor where i park. that white smoke might be burning oil that happened with two of my cars but i don't want to put you down sorry just keep your eye on it.
vtec_shuttle not gonna lie it does burn a bit of oil at high rpm but the last time it did that a couple days later the head gasket went out it didnt smell like burnt oil either i think it was antifreeze since it was a little sweet smelling...
skittlenips i got the cat about 2-3 months ago and its for an obd2 civic? thats what the guy at the smog shop said befor he but it on and passed smog.(was brand new)
if it was me take off you exhaust were the cat is and inspect it like skittlenips said the cat might clogged a little. BTW how much do you burn oil cause i burn oil while i was warming up my car and driving 1st-3rd gear and of course in higher RPM oil was leaking past the piston rings so i think that was the reason that happened to me.
vtec_shuttle not gonna lie it does burn a bit of oil at high rpm but the last time it did that a couple days later the head gasket went out it didnt smell like burnt oil either i think it was antifreeze since it was a little sweet smelling...
skittlenips i got the cat about 2-3 months ago and its for an obd2 civic? thats what the guy at the smog shop said befor he but it on and passed smog.(was brand new)
If you're just getting the smoke on startup and it goes away, no big deal, probably condensation in the exhaust piping steaming off (which is taking built up carbon with it - black splatter). If it's sticking around, you should be able to check the coolant for any oil getting in there. If you're getting coolant and oil mixing, you probably have a bigger problem on your hands.
The black spatter stuff is what made me think it might be the cat...although there's plenty of other things that can cause carbon buildup (fuel mixture, burning oil, etc.)
vtec_shuttle be honest not sure as to how much it does leak because i have an oil pan gasket leak..i know its an easy fix but im waiting to get 96 ex header to do that.
skittlenips my buddie told me about the hole condensation and carbon build up. taking all that in to consideration i remembered we had a stethoscope at work so i went to see if there was any water in the cylinders and nothing all i saw was a bit of oil in cylenders 2,3,4 maybe because it was leaning from the cover gromets #1 was clean
also i think the water pump/alternator might be going out because i can hear one of the pulleys squeking ??kind of like its not lubricated but might be wrong on that one
also i got CEL 1,2 so i disconnected it not ima drive it around and see what happens
vtec_shuttle be honest not sure as to how much it does leak because i have an oil pan gasket leak..i know its an easy fix but im waiting to get 96 ex header to do that.
skittlenips my buddie told me about the hole condensation and carbon build up. taking all that in to consideration i remembered we had a stethoscope at work so i went to see if there was any water in the cylinders and nothing all i saw was a bit of oil in cylenders 2,3,4 maybe because it was leaning from the cover gromets #1 was clean
also i think the water pump/alternator might be going out because i can hear one of the pulleys squeking ??kind of like its not lubricated but might be wrong on that one
also i got CEL 1,2 so i disconnected it not ima drive it around and see what happens
The water won't be in your cylinders, it accumulates in the exhaust pipe and steams off when you first start your engine up. It's pretty normal and won't harm anything. If the white smoke doesn't go away, though, then you're most likely burning coolant from somewhere.
Sounds like the water pump/alternator and CELs are unrelated problems. Definitely a good idea to replace the water pump before it completely goes bad. CELs are probably a loose wire or bad O2 sensor.
skittlenips yeah i that makes sense .and i think the 02 sensor is bad i think it was fouled or something when the head gasket went out (if its possible)
vtec_shuttle thanks for the info
went to go get luch just now and nothing no smoke ran fine no hickups
so ive been trying to get the car to do what happen last night but nothing lol just sounds like a subi on start up for like 5-10 seconds then runs fine (doesnt happen all the time) i had gone away but just came back like last week? random i know
soo the head gasket took a shit once again (best luck ever) and well not sure what to to? dont know if i should just rebuild the hole thing, buy a a6/z6 engine or go for a y8 head ??? im stumped at this point. looking for easiest and least cost effective what you guys recommend
soo the head gasket took a shit once again (best luck ever) and well not sure what to to? dont know if i should just rebuild the hole thing, buy a a6/z6 engine or go for a y8 head ??? im stumped at this point. looking for easiest and least cost effective what you guys recommend
For the LEAST cost effective method, I think you should go ahead and just throw a 3.2L C32 in there.
For the MOST cost effective...hmmm not sure...
What motor is in the car right now (couldn't find it in your thread - maybe I'm blind)? Do you have any reason to believe the bottom end or head are bad? Did you replace your head bolts when you put the new gasket in? Did you use an OEM gasket? Definitely need some more info...
The a6/z6 or a6/y8 combo is pretty awesome, I have had both in my current daily driver. But you could also just get a low-mileage JDM ZC motor from an importer and possibly not have to do the whole obd0-obd1 conversion process. I don't know much about the ZC swaps aside from the DOHC ZC, though...
Whatever route you decide to take, don't cut corners, or it will just end up biting you in the ass and wallet at some later point in time.
Do you have any reason to believe the bottom end or head are bad? not sure at this point its an original engine with 129,021 miles originally
Did you replace your head bolts when you put the new gasket in? yes i got a new head bolts torqued them down to 22lbs then 43lbs-44lbs dont remember, then let the car reach operating temperature and torqued then down once again to 43-44.
Did you use an OEM gasket?no it was an off brand gasket, but i have used the headgasket befor on my ae86 and worked fine
i hear alot of people liking the a6/y8 combo i personally dont like the dohc zc dont know. i rather have the vtec part
if i do go with the y8 head im gonna use the obd0-obd1 jumper harness makes everything easier . so im trying to go over as meany A6/Y8 write ups but not too meany...also i hear that if you use the y8 head you have to use a aftermarket timing gear but i cant find the post.
Do you have any reason to believe the bottom end or head are bad? not sure at this point its an original engine with 129,021 miles originally
Did you replace your head bolts when you put the new gasket in? yes i got a new head bolts torqued them down to 22lbs then 43lbs-44lbs dont remember, then let the car reach operating temperature and torqued then down once again to 43-44.
Did you use an OEM gasket?no it was an off brand gasket, but i have used the headgasket befor on my ae86 and worked fine
i hear alot of people liking the a6/y8 combo i personally dont like the dohc zc dont know. i rather have the vtec part
if i do go with the y8 head im gonna use the obd0-obd1 jumper harness makes everything easier . so im trying to go over as meany A6/Y8 write ups but not too meany...also i hear that if you use the y8 head you have to use a aftermarket timing gear but i cant find the post.
Getting the timing right on the y8 head is more difficult than with the z6 head, and yes you will need an adjustable cam gear for the y8 head. This is the reason I recently decided to make my a6/y8 motor an a6/z6 motor when my y8 head went bad. y8 head also requires using either a d15 obd1 dizzy or the stock y8 obd2 dizzy. Either way rywire makes a harness for either one, just make sure you order the right one. y8 head will give you slightly higher compression though.
You'll also want to get ARP headstuds for the specific swap you're doing to replace the head bolts. I'm pretty sure the a6/z6 head studs are exactly the same, but the y8 head uses one slightly shorter stud next to the vtec solenoid. I think someone is actually selling some head studs and a head gasket in the marketplace right now...
All the info on the a6/y8-z6 swaps should be out there though no need for me to repeat it...but feel free to ask me if ya have any questions, there's a lot of misinformation out there.
I've always been told to go with OEM headgaskets. With a part that crucial don't sacrifice quality for low cost.
Anyway, I've got an a6/y8 89 wagon and an 88 wagovan with a dohc zc at my house right now. I personally think I prefer the dohc zc for the extra power and torque, and how it makes most of its power in lower rpms...but I can totally see why some people prefer the sohc vtec motors, especially for gas mileage and a daily car.
I knew I wasn't going crazy about the timing lol i read it somewhere but couldn't remember where, something about belt not lining up so you the adjustable gear to get it at zero.
I think arp sells the kit for the a6/y8 conversion with the smaller bolt already in it,as for the the distributor harness i think i might just make my own since it isn't that hard. Does it matter which distributor I use? Is one better then the other? Or are they the same
I knew I wasn't going crazy about the timing lol i read it somewhere but couldn't remember where, something about belt not lining up so you the adjustable gear to get it at zero.
I think arp sells the kit for the a6/y8 conversion with the smaller bolt already in it,as for the the distributor harness i think i might just make my own since it isn't that hard. Does it matter which distributor I use? Is one better then the other? Or are they the same
yes, they do sell whatever kit you want.
No, the d15 and y8 dizzies are going to work the same. The only advantage of the d15 dizzy is that it is obd1 like the rest of the swap, but I have no idea what the exact d15 dizzy you want is. The y8 dizzy is obd2 (i think - there may be two versions of it or something...I'm not sure since I never actually was running a y8 dizzy), so the wiring is slightly different. I'm not exactly sure what the difference is though, but I imagine it's nothing too crazy. Pretty sure you could find a wiring diagram and figure it out pretty easy if you're going to be doing the rest of the wiring work yourself. You'd actually be able to use a z6 dizzy on the y8 head, if it had the right mount pattern. Pretty sure some people have swapped the internals from a z6 dizzy into the housing/casting for a y8 dizzy and had no issues...but don't take my word on that.
whats up everyone , so this weekend i ended up picking up a z6 head with intake mani. and throttle body. i was originally wanted to use a y8 head but z6 was closer to me. so now i got a couple questions so my fist question is what timing bet do i use ? i was reading on different forums some people was d15b7 spme say z6 ??? what i got from all the information was that either the one belt is too tight (104 tooth, tensioner wines), or to loose (106 tooth and wobbles around ). Someone also said that the tensioners from the z6 and a6 were different sizes. so question is which belt should i be using with the z6 head? did anyone encounter the same propblem? also someone suggested u can use a 96-97 hyundai accent dohc belt because its a 105 tooth
what sup guys a little update my cars finally on the road again
but not im getting a CEL #16 which has to do with the fuel injection system.
i checked the fuel injectors with a multi-meter and they all seem to be fine reading at .239
does anyone else have an idea of what it might be?? everything is connected and the car runs fine with no hick-ups
Did the suspension last night did it fairly quick but it was dark so couldnt take pictures.
so i drove the car round and wasnt too happy with the spring rate. to me they feel too soft almost sock but with a tad bit stiffness. they have alot of rebound which im not use to.. should have just the FFtype2s oh well LOL better then rolling on ebay coils with blown shocks
Comments
soooooo yesterday i noticed this
then later on i went to 711 and went to start my car and a giant puff of white smoke. the head gasket was only done about a month ago and 1067 miles driven not sure what the hell is going on to be honest but its getting to me
skittlenips i got the cat about 2-3 months ago and its for an obd2 civic? thats what the guy at the smog shop said befor he but it on and passed smog.(was brand new)
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/causes-of-white-exhaust-smoke
If you're just getting the smoke on startup and it goes away, no big deal, probably condensation in the exhaust piping steaming off (which is taking built up carbon with it - black splatter). If it's sticking around, you should be able to check the coolant for any oil getting in there. If you're getting coolant and oil mixing, you probably have a bigger problem on your hands.
The black spatter stuff is what made me think it might be the cat...although there's plenty of other things that can cause carbon buildup (fuel mixture, burning oil, etc.)
skittlenips my buddie told me about the hole condensation and carbon build up. taking all that in to consideration i remembered we had a stethoscope at work so i went to see if there was any water in the cylinders and nothing all i saw was a bit of oil in cylenders 2,3,4 maybe because it was leaning from the cover gromets #1 was clean
also i think the water pump/alternator might be going out because i can hear one of the pulleys squeking ??kind of like its not lubricated but might be wrong on that one
also i got CEL 1,2 so i disconnected it not ima drive it around and see what happens
The water won't be in your cylinders, it accumulates in the exhaust pipe and steams off when you first start your engine up. It's pretty normal and won't harm anything. If the white smoke doesn't go away, though, then you're most likely burning coolant from somewhere.
Sounds like the water pump/alternator and CELs are unrelated problems. Definitely a good idea to replace the water pump before it completely goes bad. CELs are probably a loose wire or bad O2 sensor.
Didn't think about the PCV valve...but yeah what he said.
vtec_shuttle thanks for the info
went to go get luch just now and nothing no smoke ran fine no hickups
so ive been trying to get the car to do what happen last night but nothing lol just sounds like a subi on start up for like 5-10 seconds then runs fine (doesnt happen all the time) i had gone away but just came back like last week? random i know
For the LEAST cost effective method, I think you should go ahead and just throw a 3.2L C32 in there.
For the MOST cost effective...hmmm not sure...
What motor is in the car right now (couldn't find it in your thread - maybe I'm blind)? Do you have any reason to believe the bottom end or head are bad? Did you replace your head bolts when you put the new gasket in? Did you use an OEM gasket? Definitely need some more info...
The a6/z6 or a6/y8 combo is pretty awesome, I have had both in my current daily driver. But you could also just get a low-mileage JDM ZC motor from an importer and possibly not have to do the whole obd0-obd1 conversion process. I don't know much about the ZC swaps aside from the DOHC ZC, though...
Whatever route you decide to take, don't cut corners, or it will just end up biting you in the ass and wallet at some later point in time.
Do you have any reason to believe the bottom end or head are bad? not sure at this point its an original engine with 129,021 miles originally
Did you replace your head bolts when you put the new gasket in? yes i got a new head bolts torqued them down to 22lbs then 43lbs-44lbs dont remember, then let the car reach operating temperature and torqued then down once again to 43-44.
Did you use an OEM gasket?no it was an off brand gasket, but i have used the headgasket befor on my ae86 and worked fine
i hear alot of people liking the a6/y8 combo i personally dont like the dohc zc dont know. i rather have the vtec part
if i do go with the y8 head im gonna use the obd0-obd1 jumper harness makes everything easier . so im trying to go over as meany A6/Y8 write ups but not too meany...also i hear that if you use the y8 head you have to use a aftermarket timing gear but i cant find the post.
Getting the timing right on the y8 head is more difficult than with the z6 head, and yes you will need an adjustable cam gear for the y8 head. This is the reason I recently decided to make my a6/y8 motor an a6/z6 motor when my y8 head went bad. y8 head also requires using either a d15 obd1 dizzy or the stock y8 obd2 dizzy. Either way rywire makes a harness for either one, just make sure you order the right one. y8 head will give you slightly higher compression though.
You'll also want to get ARP headstuds for the specific swap you're doing to replace the head bolts. I'm pretty sure the a6/z6 head studs are exactly the same, but the y8 head uses one slightly shorter stud next to the vtec solenoid. I think someone is actually selling some head studs and a head gasket in the marketplace right now...
All the info on the a6/y8-z6 swaps should be out there though no need for me to repeat it...but feel free to ask me if ya have any questions, there's a lot of misinformation out there.
I've always been told to go with OEM headgaskets. With a part that crucial don't sacrifice quality for low cost.
Anyway, I've got an a6/y8 89 wagon and an 88 wagovan with a dohc zc at my house right now. I personally think I prefer the dohc zc for the extra power and torque, and how it makes most of its power in lower rpms...but I can totally see why some people prefer the sohc vtec motors, especially for gas mileage and a daily car.
I think arp sells the kit for the a6/y8 conversion with the smaller bolt already in it,as for the the distributor harness i think i might just make my own since it isn't that hard. Does it matter which distributor I use? Is one better then the other? Or are they the same
yes, they do sell whatever kit you want.
No, the d15 and y8 dizzies are going to work the same. The only advantage of the d15 dizzy is that it is obd1 like the rest of the swap, but I have no idea what the exact d15 dizzy you want is. The y8 dizzy is obd2 (i think - there may be two versions of it or something...I'm not sure since I never actually was running a y8 dizzy), so the wiring is slightly different. I'm not exactly sure what the difference is though, but I imagine it's nothing too crazy. Pretty sure you could find a wiring diagram and figure it out pretty easy if you're going to be doing the rest of the wiring work yourself. You'd actually be able to use a z6 dizzy on the y8 head, if it had the right mount pattern. Pretty sure some people have swapped the internals from a z6 dizzy into the housing/casting for a y8 dizzy and had no issues...but don't take my word on that.
I believe you would use everything that matches the head, so y8. I would do some searching to verify though.
but not im getting a CEL #16 which has to do with the fuel injection system.
i checked the fuel injectors with a multi-meter and they all seem to be fine reading at .239
does anyone else have an idea of what it might be?? everything is connected and the car runs fine with no hick-ups
so i drove the car round and wasnt too happy with the spring rate. to me they feel too soft almost sock but with a tad bit stiffness. they have alot of rebound which im not use to.. should have just the FFtype2s oh well LOL better then rolling on ebay coils with blown shocks