Engine Troubles - Updated

Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
So I was driving to work today and all of a sudden as I was coming out of the exit my motor just shut off. The Oil light came on and the Battery light also came on. :cry:

It would crank but wouldn't start. Eventually the battery died while I waited for the tow truck.

Any suggestions? :?


Thanks

Comments

  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    did you check the timing belt?
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    No? Would it have just snapped? What kind of damage would that have done to the engine. Any other suggestions.

    Thanks
  • ThinkFabThinkFab Wagonist
    pull off the distributor cap and make sure that the rotor DOESNT spin freely. if it does spin, good luck finding the screw for it.
  • curtcurt Wagonist
    pull off the distributor cap and check the screw that hold the rotor. also check the wiring harness by the distributor i had some bent expossed wires that was messing with me.
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    You were so right!. I checked the distributor and something had broken off. I bought a new cap & rotor & going to see if that makes a difference.

    I'll post updates.

    Thanks again
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    So its fixed. I changed the cap and rotor & also got new plugs. I also needed a new battery.

    Thanks again
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    damn!!!! :x The car is still acting up. So the current issue. When coming to a complete stop the cars RPM start to drop. Well once the RPM drops it keeps dropping until the car shuts off. If im quick enough and can rev the motor before it shuts off I will stay on. But still idles rough.

    I thought the idle was too low but its not that. Could it be a sensor? The only think I didn't change when I did the tune up was the spark plug wires as they seemed to be in good condition?

    Any suggestions?
  • ThinkFabThinkFab Wagonist
    check and make sure that all the sensors on the intake manifold are connected. you could have a bad idle are control, so you will need an ohm meter to check and make sure everything is still cool. hope you have a haynes manual. good luck
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    I'll check it tomorow & clean it out & hope that fixes the problem.

    I found this link: www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1575913&page=1
    going to try it tomorrow & see if it works.

    Thanks again.
  • KahunaKahuna familEE
    Your oil light came on since the motor was off, there was no oil pressure. No biggie..

    My B16 was doing that, and it was a combo of MAP sensor and AIT semsor..

    Are you throwing codes? If not, I doubt it's causing enough problems to mess the motor up..

    Maybe the timing on the dizzy is off? I'd adjust it.
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    Where are the " MAP sensor and AIT semsor."
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    So I cleaned the Idle control unit. The rpm still keeps dropping until the car shuts off. Im still getting the batt & oil light while the idle is dropping & after the car shuts off too. Once the car is off I can start the car again but it runs rough for a second or two until I gas it. It seems to only happen when coming to a stop on a downhill. No oil pressue?

    Any suggestions? Please?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Ensure all vacuum hoses and electrical connectors are secured and not perished or penetrated.

    Have you tested your IACV and FITV?
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    How do I test " IACV and FITV?" and where are they located?

    Thanks
  • farfetchedfarfetched Wagonist
    Norcal510 wrote:
    So I was driving to work today and all of a sudden as I was coming out of the exit my motor just shut off. The Oil light came on and the Battery light also came on. :cry:

    It would crank but wouldn't start. Eventually the battery died while I waited for the tow truck.

    Any suggestions? :?
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    * * Help anyone * *
  • farfetchedfarfetched Wagonist
    Norcal510 wrote:
    * * Help anyone * *
    Do you get ECU blinkin light ?
    Check your ECU for cods!
    Cheers!
  • adrenalinesaintadrenalinesaint Wagonist
    Maybe you need a new intake manifold gasket.

    I come from the DSM world and those cars are notoris for blowing them. The symptoms you describe coenside with what I experienced with a leaky intake manifold gasket.

    good luck man, hope this helps.
  • gp70hsgp70hs Band Wagon
    For what it's worth.

    I had a similar problem with mine. I finally figured out that somehow, when the initial problem occurred, it did something physically to the plastic tip inside of the IACV. You can check for this by removing the hose from the air cleaner assembly, and plug it off completely. If the car idle settles down, then you will need to replace the IACV unit.

    On mine the IACV seemed to work Ok, by all the tests I could find. I finally figured out it was only leaking, a little bit, but it was enough to cause the symptoms you've described. The replacement, used, did not leak any air through the hose from the air filter, when it was not energized.
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    No engine light. I'll have to take it to a repair shop to see if its throwing any codes? Also I'll try & replace the IACV/manifold gasket this weekend.

    Any other suggestions why it would give me an oil light? Someone suggested low or now oil pressure? What sensors would I check?


    Any other suggestions? Thanks again to everyone who has given feedback.
  • curtcurt Wagonist
    http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/board/vi ... =ecu+codes

    check the ecu under the passenger side carpet. there is a light that will flash count. how many times and use the link to figure out what it means
  • Norcal510Norcal510 Wagonist
    wow thats great. I'll check it out.

    Thanks
  • 300zx300zx Wagonist
    I think I know what it is. So the little screw that when in the dizzy rotor what missing.That little screw could have hit one of the sensors inside the dizzy and bent it. Check inside the dizzy by removing of the covers and see if any sensor gaps has moved. This happened to me but the car would only drive if i had the rpms above 1500. If i would go under that it would slowly die out. And then puff, a big back fire from the gas that wasnt burn in the cat.
    Anti-lag system :D
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