Zero Compression On Cylinder Two

scottiedogscottiedog Band Wagon
in Engine & Drivetrain
Hey Guys,

I took a gamble and purchased a Rt for giveaway money, I should never gamble as I usually end up loosing my shirt, keep telling myself never buy a car unseen, after a Triumph Stag, XJS and RX7 I still have not learned my lesson :roll:

Anyway the car had a poor idle, it sounded like one cylinder wasn't firing so I replaced the plugs, no joy. While waiting for my buddy to return my compression tester he had for a lifetime I then replaced the distributor cap and rotor, no change. Ohmed out the spark plug wires, everything looked spot on. Removed the IACV and cleaned it all up, again, no change. Compression tester arrived and low and behold a big fat zero psi on cylinder two. The rest are 150 or 151 PSI (motor only has 130k on her). So, I think its safe to say its either a bent valve or a hole in the piston. Either way, I need to remove the head to see how bad things really are.

I had a few quotes from mechanics, all between $800 - 1000 for removing the head, replacing the valves, machining the head, changing the timing belt and water pump.

I need advice, are these reasonable prices? Central Valley California is where I am, any other Central Californian guys know a good mechanic? Removing the head looks easy enough, just time consuming, but I don't want to start something I cannot finish. Part of me wants to do it myself, a nice challenge....hmmmm....what to do.....

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    $1000 will buy you 2 complete lower mileage JDM engines that would drop right in lol.

    DO IT YOURSELF.

    get yourself a Honda manual, that will be your bible on all repairs.

    since the motor is shot anyway, i recommend you remove the head your self and check out whats wrong. if its the head, then just find one from the junkyard or used somewhere else. hell, i can get heads all day for $80 from my local junkyard. if its more then the head (such as a blown piston, ring, etc..) then just buy a complete motor. like i said, there are used JDM SOHC D-series motors galore for around $500. the DOHC ZC, my personal favorite, is a nice little upgrade and would bolt right in ;) those go for around $900 nowadays.

    it took me 2 days to swap out my first engine with NO power tools, NO engine hoist, and working alone. the second time i did it in 9 hours. its not very complex (not sure how mechanically inclined you are).

    fwiw, the current engine in my car is a D16Y7 engine from a 1996 Civic DX that i bought for $100 from the junkyard during a sale they had. it runs perfect and doesnt burn a drop of oil. took a little bit of modification to make it work, but nothing that took longer then 2 or 3 hours (just the drivers side motor mount bracket needed to be swapped, timing belt cover needed to be trimmed, and 2 wires had to be extended.. simple stuff)

    of course, we are here to help you along the way. :wink:
  • str8shooterstr8shooter Band Wagon
    My vote is to replace the engine also. Not very difficult, lower miles, cheaper, and more time efficient if you are looking to have this done within a weekend.
  • ak_ef9ak_ef9 Band Wagon
    Id bet that its just a chipped exhaust valve. Id take the head off and see. I have had that happen to a few hondas. Its always been the exhaust valve too. i9t gets carboned up and eventually hits the piston. A new valve is less then 13 bucks
  • cbothacbotha Band Wagon
    For paying someone $800-1000 is not unreasonable. Labor will be $80 to $100 an hour, headwork will be $200-400 depending upon what they do.

    Get a genuine Honda manaul from Helms as opposed to the Chilton---It is well worth the extra money.

    As for pulling the head- google away and see if you feel comfortable

    As opposed to redoing the engine, I'd swap a different engine in. As it is an AWD search the forums on which engines will swap in the easiest.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Before you go taking anything apart have you tried a wet compression test on that one cylinder? It's possible that the oiling of that one cylinder's wall is compromised, or that the rings in that cylinder are stuck. Drop some oil (1 or 2 spoonfulls) into the spark plug hole, turn the motor over by hand for 6-7 revolutions and try the compression check again. If it comes up at all (say to 50 or more psi), then it's likely stuck rings.

    Then go get some ATF (automatic transmission fluid), drop 2-3 spoonfulls into that cylinder, turn it over by hand again, 6-7 revolutions, and let it sit overnight. Repeat mid-day the next day (don't add more fuild) and let it sit again. Do this for a couple days and then start it up to see if the rings have become unstuck. Worst case scenario is you're out $5 for the ATF and 2-3 days trying to unstuck the rings.
  • scottiedogscottiedog Band Wagon
    Hey Guys,

    Thanks for all the advice, really appreciate the time you took for the replies!

    @wagondizzle - You convinced me, I am going to go ahead and get my hands dirty.

    @str8shooter - I guess once I pull the head Ill make my mind up, if the damage is just to the valve Ill keep the motor, its low in miles for the year...swapping for something more sporty might be an idea but Cali and its smog laws are a huge PITA.

    @ak_ef9 - Fingers crossed, $13 per valve seems like a deal, should I go with aftermarket or plump up the cash for Honda's?

    @abotha - I ended up with a Hayes manual, never had much luck with Chilton, but never heard of Helms...might just buy that too...more pricey but appear to have great reviews.

    @Jaker - I did try a wet compression test, made no change, but stuck piston ring is something I never really thought of...hmmmm. Ill pour a little extra oil down there and give it a try, thanks for the tip!
  • Silvertoe88RTSilvertoe88RT Wagonist
    Pop the valve cover off and check the valve adjustment first, kis "Keep it simple" it is know as kiss but the last s doesn't apply no one is stupid.
    1 tight exhaust valve is possible,
    2 timing belt skipped a tooth = bent valve. 100-130k is about the time the belt would.
    3 carbon build up broke valve "it could, but rare"
    4 rings too but 130k is low.

    I personally had a d16a6 head redone 475 out the door. 800-1000 is crazy.

    Edit---- Sea foam it, 8$ for the can at the auto part store, it will do what atf does but sensor safe and better results thats "my opinion". but it will clean all the carbon off the intake valves, piston tops and exhaust valves.
  • punx45punx45 Band Wagon
    just pull it and do a swap for cheap money. you can probably do it all for less than labor alone at a shop
  • scottiedogscottiedog Band Wagon
    @Silvertoe88RT - I too was thinking the rings would be unlikely due to the low miles....carbon build up, it might be, I had a 2006 Vw 2.0T GTI and within 20k miles on the clock it bent a few valves due to carbon build up. Put me off German cars for life, damn thing was never out the shop, lucky I opted for the extended warranty!

    Ill pop the valve cover off this evening and give it a try....Ill inspect the belt too, If I were a betting man I'd say the belt skipped a tooth or two.
  • dre1162dre1162 Wagonist
    What I would doo is do a leak down test.
    Check where the air is coming from!?
    If you hear the air through your throttle body.
    It's the intake valve.
    If you hear it from your tailpipe.
    It's the exhaust valve.
    If you seee bubbles from your radiator.
    It's a head gasket.
    If you hear it from your dipstick hole.
    It's from your rings.
    Your rings could easily be aligned up to not hold compression.
  • moebiiusmoebiius Wagonist
    Very spot on recommendations!
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