Clutch went out? 88 RT4WD

Well I've complained before about the clutch exhibiting odd behavior. It wouldn't engage at a single point as I moved the pedal up and down. Tonight I got really lucky. My wagon refused to go from first to second gear as I rounded the corner in front of my house. I let it sit for a few minutes, then I started it in neutral and managed to put it into 1st and pull it in front of my house. It was making a pretty horrible squealing noise, though. An hour or so later I tried again to start it and put it into gear. It refuses to go into 1st, and if you try to put it into reverse it starts grinding. The other thing I noticed was that the clutch pedal became a bit easier to depress, and it didn't really seem like it was doing much.

So I guess I can hope that this is just a cable problem, but it's more likely that the clutch is going to need to be replaced. Any helpful advice on what to do is appreciated. I've never done a clutch job before. Can I do it in an afternoon with the car on ramps? Would I need any special tools? My Haynes manual says something about a clutch adjustment tool..

Comments

  • judebertjudebert familEE
    I just did this job, although with a different engine. It was really no problem -- at least as far as the clutch itself is concerned. Engine removal and insertion is an entirely different beast, and someone else will have to tell you about that.

    Your problem reminds me of one I had with an old Beetle. Turned out I used the wrong forks and throwout bearing for my clutch.

    Replacing the clutch is just a matter of removing a bunch of bolts, replacing the stuff, and putting it all back on. A complete OEM clutch kit can be purchased for less than $200, including the alignment tool.

    The only tricky bit is that you've got to get all the holes to line up on the transmission shaft, and the teeth on the friction disk to match. That's what the clutch alignment tool does. It's a plastic replica of the transmission shaft, and you use it to make sure the holes are all lined up.

    I used a level to ensure everything was straight in multiple ways. Then I lost the alignment tool. Then my brother eyeballed it. Went in the first time. Damn, he's good.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    :? B4 u go replacing the clutch.Have you tried adjusting the clutch :?: Might save you a bunch of $$$. :!:
  • qsoundrichqsoundrich Band Wagon
    Pretty sure it's a throwout bearing and not an adjustment issue. That might make sense if the failure hadn't been so sudden.

    I asked my dad about doing this job and he said I would have to take apart the half shafts and that it's basically a lot more involved than just unbolting a few things. Then again he's done this on Nissans but not Hondas.

    First quote I got on a clutch job was over $900.... I've seen kits for about $125 at the parts stores.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Try this.Disengage the 4wd & see if it helps.

    Your Dads rite.It'll probably take all day.I did a 4WD by myself.Labor on a 4WD cost more.With your Dad &/or friends half a day.Things to consider:
    1)If you're doing a TO brg.Depending on the miles....replacing the clutch.Turning the flywhl (or replacing it depending on your usage).
    2) Since you're in COL.Do a test run on seeing if your lower ball joint will pop out.I broke 3 ball joint pullers.Ending up getting a junkyard spindle/LCA.Mines was frozen from the snow.With a puller it should pop out easily.
    3) Good time to think about lowering since all the cr*p will be pulled out.Shx upgrade :?: Braided brake line upgrade :?:Trans oil change (Use Honda MTF only(read my SiWagon Tips for more) :!: Any rips in the CVCs :?: Brake disc/pad upgrades ?
    :idea: Good time to port the downpipe.
  • judebertjudebert familEE
    Yes, the half shafts will have to come out. But that's part of removing the engine, which I have no experience with, because my engine has been replaced with an electric motor. (That's a lot easier to get out, but it still requires removing the half-shafts.) Hence, "someone else will have to tell you about that". If this is AWD, it also means removing the transfer case, if I'm not mistaken.

    However, after the engine removal, that actual clutch replacement itself is a piece of cake: just the unbolting, replacement, adjustment, and rebolting.

    Getting the engine out, and then getting it back in with the new clutch on, can be a major hassle. Probably well worth the $900, if you don't have the necessary equipment, like an engine hoist.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Transfer case is hooked up w/tranny.Engine hoist is NOT needed.
  • judebertjudebert familEE
    How do you get the engine out? Car on jackstands, pull it out through the bottom?
  • qsoundrichqsoundrich Band Wagon
    Thanks for the Replies. This IS an AWD. I'll bump this thread so people can discuss clutch replacement here.

    What did you use as a guide, SiWagon? Did you just eyeball things? I've never done this before, so I'm sure it will take a lot longer than a day for me. Most I've done on a car is suspension and a crankshaft bolt. All I have is the general civic Haynes Manual.

    The shop told me they would do a rear main seal when the tranny is out. I guess that's pretty basic.

    Also should I do the TB at the same time?
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    I used the Honda shop manual.Engine stays in.Held it up w/a jack.I did eyeball it.Aligned the clutch & slowly tighten all the bolts in a star pattern.Clutch alignment tools are cheap.Always replace the TO brg.(4WD specific) & pilot brg.(it's only $5) & .Rear main seal doesn't need to b replaced.Ohhh maybe your mechanic was talking about the tranny axle seals....I did change those.Easy.Hardest part for me 'cuz I was STUPID :x :cry: It was cold & raining.Spent 3 hours trying to align the tranny to block.Almost had it.Took a break.Slammed me head into the wall a few times.Unhooked the tranny realigned it.........10-20 minutes later it's in.It looked aligned,but wasn't.It's not that bad.I used OEM.My last OEM Civic clutch job lasted 85,OOO miles.Transfer case is attached to the tranny.

    :arrow: Change the MTF while you're at it.One more BIG TIP get a plastic syringe (boat shop,hobby shop or hardware store).While the ball joints are out inject grease into the ball joints .Now I don't need to worry about it for the next 100k.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The main seal he's talking about is the crank seal and i would highly reccommend changing it while you are down there. The seal itself costs no more than $10 but in order to replace it you need to remove the transmission. Its good preventitive maintenance.
  • qsoundrichqsoundrich Band Wagon
    What's different about the 4wd clutch job vs. 2wd? I looked at it today and I can see the drive shaft comes out of the back of the tranny (transfer case?)

    I guess this drive shaft just has to be disconnected? Otherwise I can't see why it would be all that much more difficult than a regular 2WD clutch.

    I did give a good listen to my issue again today. It sounds fine in neutral, then when I depress the clutch I start hearing a low growling sound. If I try to force it into gear it starts to squeal.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The difference between 4WD and 2WD? Four bolts. Just torque them back up once you are done, hopefully you have a manual for the specs?
  • qsoundrichqsoundrich Band Wagon
    That's what I thought! 4 bolts! It didn't look that much different. The drive axels may be different though.

    My parents have offered to help pay for the repair, but I sort of wouldn't mind trying it on my own. 900 seems to be the lowest price, and that guy said he uses all Honda parts and matches anyone.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The axels themselves are different but fitment is exactly the same.
  • farfrumworkfarfrumwork Band Wagon
    WTF

    ok, I posted 2x now but the verbage was lost when I went to submit.....

    I'll make it real quick now (tired of typing the same shit)

    1) tranny on the '90 weighs 110lbs - get a tanny jack if you're doing this in the car

    2) remove the intermediate shaft. I tried to "save time" and leave it in, but it just makes the tranny alignment very difficult and I pooched the shaft seal and had to go back in after the tranny was back together and pull the shaft/replace the seal anyway - NOT a time saver :x :lol:

    3) As stated, replace the rear oil seal while in there.

    4) make sure the kit you get is right for the MY. I came close, but the throwout bearing was wrong. Honda stealership charges $57 for just the bearing!

    New clutch, new ball joints, and new alignment = sweet 200,000mi RT!! (ready for another 200k)
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    WTF

    ok, I posted 2x now but the verbage was lost when I went to submit.....

    I'll make it real quick now (tired of typing the same shit)

    When that happens a message telling you what to do comes up, if you read it you wouldn't need to retype anything at all.

    Basically what is happening is the spam protection is kicking in, if you post faster than 5 seconds or take longer than 10 minutes, it won't submit your post but if that happens you can just hit refresh and hit submit again and you won't lose your typed text.

    Its either put up with this or put up with large quantities of spam. :(
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