Starting problem

pre-ownedpre-owned Band Wagon
in Engine & Drivetrain
my car is having some problem starting, when i turn the key the starter just clicks, but if i turn it a good 10-50 times and it eventually works. i tested the whole starter/alternator system and everything comes up clear. has anyone else had and solved this problem or have an idea what it could be? i'm about to just replace the starter and cross my fingers.

Comments

  • slide7229slide7229 Wagonist
    check the ground wire on the starter itself.i had a problem just like that i actually had to grind off some paint so i could ground the starter properly ... check all your grounds for that matter this will cost you little to no money if the grounds are the problem
  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    Sounds like the contacts in the starter are worn and need replacing.

    I havnt pulled apart a Honda starter but changed them on my parents Hilux and it was easy as, new contacts were like $12
  • 88jdmcivic88jdmcivic Band Wagon
    I say its your starter, replace your starter.
  • eighteight Band Wagon
    Maybe the main relay? It was a problem with both my old preludes. I re-soldered it and it fixed itself.
  • JDMWago666JDMWago666 Senior Wagonist
    NZ-DB8R wrote:
    Sounds like the contacts in the starter are worn and need replacing.

    I havnt pulled apart a Honda starter but changed them on my parents Hilux and it was easy as, new contacts were like $12
    I agree! If it was the main relay than it wouldn't start at all. He checked the starter and said it came up good. Possible grounding issue too.
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    He said it wouldn't turn over at all, just click. If it was the main relay, it would turn over but not fire, because you wouldn't be getting any fuel. You can completely unplug the main relay and the motor will still turn, that's the easiest way to cut off fuel supply to do a compression test.

    It's either a starter problem (you can rebuild it yourself if you know how, or buy a new one) or a bad ground or the ignition switch is going bad.

    Also, it could be a faulty neutral safety switch. Make sure you have the clutch pedal all the way down. Check to make sure the rubber plug on the clutch pedal arm is pushing the end of the switch when you push the pedal down. Those rubber plugs deteriorate and fall out over time. You can buy a new one or super glue a penny in its place. If it does start eventually, then the plug is probably not missing though. Switch could also need adjusting.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    A starter rebuild (as far as 99% of the Honda starter failures I've seen) is dead simple, and as already mentioned is dirt cheap. Remove the starter, take off the solenoid cover, replace 2 copper contacts ($5-10 at Autozone), re-assemble, re-install, 60 minutes you're done. The copper contacts erode over time to the point that the solenoid can't push them together tight enough to make a solid contact. What you are doing by clicking the ignition key repeatedly is giving those contacts many tries to establish "contact".
  • wagonef8wagonef8 Wagonist
    hey just had this problem monday was almost late for work and like slide7229 said check your ground the ground wire on my car had work itself loose and was just clicking. dirty battery post will do the same so clean them and go from their
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    I agree with both of the previous posts. Check these things as well.

    Let us know if you get it figured out.
  • pre-ownedpre-owned Band Wagon
    ok, so finally just got time to get to this. Ground wire is good. I'm replacing the starter to see if that does it. Getting to that lower nut on the starter sucks though. Anyone knonw the easiest way to get to it? or do i just keep wiggling around with the ratchet wrench till i get it in there?
  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    Got a swivel adapter? Failing that a Spanner should do it
  • Dj HentaiDj Hentai Wagonist
    pre-owned wrote:
    Anyone knonw the easiest way to get to it?

    Swivel adapter, 2 6" extensions, and a lot of patience.
  • waygonywaygony Band Wagon
    And a headlamp.
  • JonafinJonafin Wagonist
    AintGotNoSol wrote:
    He said it wouldn't turn over at all, just click. If it was the main relay, it would turn over but not fire, because you wouldn't be getting any fuel. You can completely unplug the main relay and the motor will still turn, that's the easiest way to cut off fuel supply to do a compression test.

    It's either a starter problem (you can rebuild it yourself if you know how, or buy a new one) or a bad ground or the ignition switch is going bad.

    Also, it could be a faulty neutral safety switch. Make sure you have the clutch pedal all the way down. Check to make sure the rubber plug on the clutch pedal arm is pushing the end of the switch when you push the pedal down. Those rubber plugs deteriorate and fall out over time. You can buy a new one or super glue a penny in its place. If it does start eventually, then the plug is probably not missing though. Switch could also need adjusting.

    Can someone explain this safety switch to me? I am having this same problem, and yesterday, something fell out from above the pedals, Thank you
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    Was it the remains of a blue or black rubber plug?

    Ok basically, there is a switch mounted up behind the clutch pedal, and when you press the clutch pedal all the way in, it presses on the switch, completing the circuit to the starter. It's designed so that you can't turn the key without pressing the clutch in, as a safety measure to make sure you don't start the car with the transmission engaged and end up driving away unintentionally.

    What most likely fell out was the actual rubber plug that pushes the switch. The switch isn't activated by the pedal itself, but a small rubber plug that fits into a hole in the pedal arm. When these plugs deteriorate, they fall out, leaving just the hole, which obviously won't push the switch. They use the same type of setup for the brake light switch, and the cutoff switches for the cruise control. I have had these plugs fall out on several of my hondas.

    I'm sure the plugs are fairly cheap from the dealership, but I've never bought them. I usually super glue a penny over the hole. The switch is adjustable in case it's too far from the penny.
  • JonafinJonafin Wagonist
    AintGotNoSol wrote:
    Was it the remains of a blue or black rubber plug?

    Ok basically, there is a switch mounted up behind the clutch pedal, and when you press the clutch pedal all the way in, it presses on the switch, completing the circuit to the starter. It's designed so that you can't turn the key without pressing the clutch in, as a safety measure to make sure you don't start the car with the transmission engaged and end up driving away unintentionally.

    What most likely fell out was the actual rubber plug that pushes the switch. The switch isn't activated by the pedal itself, but a small rubber plug that fits into a hole in the pedal arm. When these plugs deteriorate, they fall out, leaving just the hole, which obviously won't push the switch. They use the same type of setup for the brake light switch, and the cutoff switches for the cruise control. I have had these plugs fall out on several of my hondas.

    I'm sure the plugs are fairly cheap from the dealership, but I've never bought them. I usually super glue a penny over the hole. The switch is adjustable in case it's too far from the penny.

    Thank you so much! That's exactly what I was talking about. :D
  • JonafinJonafin Wagonist
    AintGotNoSol wrote:
    Was it the remains of a blue or black rubber plug?

    Ok basically, there is a switch mounted up behind the clutch pedal, and when you press the clutch pedal all the way in, it presses on the switch, completing the circuit to the starter. It's designed so that you can't turn the key without pressing the clutch in, as a safety measure to make sure you don't start the car with the transmission engaged and end up driving away unintentionally.

    What most likely fell out was the actual rubber plug that pushes the switch. The switch isn't activated by the pedal itself, but a small rubber plug that fits into a hole in the pedal arm. When these plugs deteriorate, they fall out, leaving just the hole, which obviously won't push the switch. They use the same type of setup for the brake light switch, and the cutoff switches for the cruise control. I have had these plugs fall out on several of my hondas.

    I'm sure the plugs are fairly cheap from the dealership, but I've never bought them. I usually super glue a penny over the hole. The switch is adjustable in case it's too far from the penny.

    Can you take a picture of where this goes, cause I'm kind of a big guy :roll: so it's hard to weasel down there with a flashlight and get a good look.
    Thanks in advance!
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    sorry i don't have a camera right now. I sent you a PM with some more info though
  • asnamasnasnamasn Wagonist
    Had this same exact problem and it was exactly aintgotnosol said it was. For those who need a reference i can get a picture but it wont help you too much so i'll just describe it.

    If you look up at your clutch pedal of the pedal assembly you'll see a cylindrical plug and the plug in itself is yellow.
    If you trace that back up toward the rear of your clutch assembly you'll feel the switch that needs to be pushed down.
    As you keep your hand there and push the clutch down with your hand you can feel where the pad should be and has worn down.
    For an easy trouble shooting way to find out if thats exactly it, just push down the sensor button and try and start your car.


    Mine fired right up and i just need to find something to replace that pad on my clutch pedal.
    If you were to just somehow keep that sensor pushed it could that potentially drain the battery?
    I wouldn't think so but you never know, more for knowledge then actual being put to use.
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    It shouldn't drain the battery. It's basically a second switch in the ignition circuit. Basically you have to have that switch engaged, and turn the ignition switch to complete the circuit. Otherwise current shouldn't travel through it at all. The switch on my car is bypassed, pretty much the same effect as keeping the switch pressed all the time. It's never drained the battery on me, and the car sat for like 2 months waiting for a motor swap.

    I'll explain the glue/penny method of replacing a worn plug.

    BE VERY CAREFUL! IT IS TOTALLY POSSIBLE AND EVEN HIGHLY LIKELY THAT YOU WILL SUPER GLUE YOUR FINGERS TO THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY!!!! Keep a bottle of nail polish remover handy, it will break down the glue if you get stuck. Also lay an old towel on the floorboard so you don't spill remover on your carpet if you need to use it.

    First, remove any pieces of the old broken or worn out plug.

    Test fit the penny to make sure you can actually reach the hole. You may have to try a few times from different angles, and it will be a pain in the ass. But it will help you figure out the easiest method BEFORE you get glue all over the place.

    Next, you have to get the penny glued over the hole. This is the hard part, because its REALLY hard to reach it. I figured out a risky but effective method of getting the penny up there without dropping it. drop a tiny little dab of glue on the heads side of the penny. Not a lot at all, just enough to fuse the penny temporarily to your finger. It should be fairly easy to pull your thumb off the penny.

    Lightly cover the entire tails side of the penny with super glue. This side will attach to the pedal, over the hole, and push the switch. Reach up there and hold the penny against the pedal, long enough for the glue to harden. After about 15 to 30 seconds, wiggle your finger around a little (yeah!) to make sure its nice and solid. When you're sure the penny isn't going anywhere, gently pull your finger off the penny. As long as you didn't use too much glue, it should come right off. It helps to roll your finger back and forth to help peel it off.

    Rinse your finger off with the nail polish remover to get the glue residue off, or just wait a day or two for it to fall off, and you're done!
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