I'm not seeing how you would lose fuel due to an oem FPR. I have a stock fpr and I'm fine. Maybe you have a damaged fpr or rising rate. With crome btw you don't need a rising rate at all. also crome is free and should be easy to update your ecu to if you have standard chipping done. as for injector size I would always aim a little higher than you need. It allows for some more room to tune and they are always wanted by somebody.
I'm sure it's been said plenty of times already, but ditch the RRR/Rising Rate FPR and get a tuned/chipped ECU. A raising rate regulator can do just as much damage as a poorly tuned ECU or no fueling setup at all....especially if you're washing down the cylinders under boost with too much fuel or detonating the pistons to oblivion. Crome and many other are free and chipping tutorials are abundant...hell you can't throw a rock without hitting a self proclaimed "tuner" these days that can throw a chip and a base on for cheap. Seems like you've been stacking parts and saving for a long time, so do yourself a favor and go the extra 10ft. Get the proper EFI setup in place before all your hard work/money turns into a well defined hole in the crankcase.
Also...so I don't sound like a complete dick. Honda/Acura ECU's don't have factory mapping for anything above 0 Vac/.3boost. Unless you have a boost bleeder ( "missing link"/fish tank valves/some other bleeder device) then the ECU will wig out and throw a code 3 or 5(MAP sensor code) whenever you hit boost and will fuel cut/generally run like crap.
Also if you're running 550cc injectors the factory ECU will be over-scaled for that large of an injector and will be dumping fuel, unless the "chip" you mentioned is specifically matched to your setup. Honestly I've never been a fan of "base maps" on Honda/Acuras since the after-market part combinations can vary so widely. Plus idle fueling with larger injectors can be tricky to nail down, 1/2 the time with canned tunes you get crap/rich/bouncy idle..... unstable idle, sound familiar?
Try re-installing the V/SAFC and adjusting the fueling in the idle rpm range down(or up) and see if the idle stabilizes. Bouncing idle can be caused by the ECU trying to self correct for too rich or too lean or a condition, then it over compensates, cuts fuel, etc.
Just a heads up and another reason to get a chipped ECU.
I'm not seeing how you would lose fuel due to an oem FPR. I have a stock fpr and I'm fine. Maybe you have a damaged fpr or rising rate. With crome btw you don't need a rising rate at all. also crome is free and should be easy to update your ecu to if you have standard chipping done. as for injector size I would always aim a little higher than you need. It allows for some more room to tune and they are always wanted by somebody.
so how does crome work as far as tuning, do i need to add a usb to my chipped p28? and just reprogram the chip with crome on a lap top, sorry if its a dumb Q iv heard a lot of people using it just never heard how or where to get it
I'm sure it's been said plenty of times already, but ditch the RRR/Rising Rate FPR and get a tuned/chipped ECU. A raising rate regulator can do just as much damage as a poorly tuned ECU or no fueling setup at all....especially if you're washing down the cylinders under boost with too much fuel or detonating the pistons to oblivion. Crome and many other are free and chipping tutorials are abundant...hell you can't throw a rock without hitting a self proclaimed "tuner" these days that can throw a chip and a base on for cheap. Seems like you've been stacking parts and saving for a long time, so do yourself a favor and go the extra 10ft. Get the proper EFI setup in place before all your hard work/money turns into a well defined hole in the crankcase.
Also...so I don't sound like a complete dick. Honda/Acura ECU's don't have factory mapping for anything above 0 Vac/.3boost. Unless you have a boost bleeder ( "missing link"/fish tank valves/some other bleeder device) then the ECU will wig out and throw a code 3 or 5(MAP sensor code) whenever you hit boost and will fuel cut/generally run like crap.
Also if you're running 550cc injectors the factory ECU will be over-scaled for that large of an injector and will be dumping fuel, unless the "chip" you mentioned is specifically matched to your setup. Honestly I've never been a fan of "base maps" on Honda/Acuras since the after-market part combinations can vary so widely. Plus idle fueling with larger injectors can be tricky to nail down, 1/2 the time with canned tunes you get crap/rich/bouncy idle..... unstable idle, sound familiar?
Try re-installing the V/SAFC and adjusting the fueling in the idle rpm range down(or up) and see if the idle stabilizes. Bouncing idle can be caused by the ECU trying to self correct for too rich or too lean or a condition, then it over compensates, cuts fuel, etc.
Just a heads up and another reason to get a chipped ECU.
wow lot of info thanks! yes the closest chip i could find is for 440cc injectors 28 psi, as far as the fpr i have a pile of fprs and was not sure if there where diff kinds like raising rate, is there a way to tell by looking at them? also i have a 3 bar map on it. i was going to try ajusting the fueling on the safc but i ended up just yanking it out. i traded some kid a bunch of parts for what was supposed to be a p28 with s300 but its just another chipped p28 with a usp cord that had 5 pins that plug in to something on the board with 6 pins, not sure if its anything or if i just got a tube steak to the rear, sound like anything?
hey guys its been a wile, i got fired my integra got stolen (fun) and now im trying to get my wagon on the road already he is what iv changed since time
i ditched the chipped p28 and got hondata s300
rc 1000 cc injectors
ramhorn manifold
inovative wide band o2
a radiator off of a mini austin rover
ditched the fmu and adjustable fpr and just slapped an oem on
well i took it for a drive up and down the road it was running a little lean but still breaking the tires loose in low rpm 5th gear pulls
now after i took a crack at tuning the s300 and put in what i could like injector size ect but now she is running supper rick and fouling plugs fast, i was wondering if anyone knew how to adjust the voltage and dead time in the fuel comp window
and my biggest issue, yes there's more, my crv tranny only works when it wants to, the first time it happened i thought it was toast but you can put it in any gear (5spd) and let out the clutch and no noise sound movement or idle drop :shock:
but later in the day it started to work just fine now its doing it again id like to get it tuned on a dyno but i cant without this tranny working its not the clutch its a bring new hd act six puck kit with all the fixxins also the rear drive shaft out put is not hooked to a drive line but that's not supposed to matter yet i don't have a second set of eyes to see if it moves
any help would be epic im trying to get it at least have road ready for my friends memorial thanks.
Comments
Also...so I don't sound like a complete dick. Honda/Acura ECU's don't have factory mapping for anything above 0 Vac/.3boost. Unless you have a boost bleeder ( "missing link"/fish tank valves/some other bleeder device) then the ECU will wig out and throw a code 3 or 5(MAP sensor code) whenever you hit boost and will fuel cut/generally run like crap.
Also if you're running 550cc injectors the factory ECU will be over-scaled for that large of an injector and will be dumping fuel, unless the "chip" you mentioned is specifically matched to your setup. Honestly I've never been a fan of "base maps" on Honda/Acuras since the after-market part combinations can vary so widely. Plus idle fueling with larger injectors can be tricky to nail down, 1/2 the time with canned tunes you get crap/rich/bouncy idle..... unstable idle, sound familiar?
Try re-installing the V/SAFC and adjusting the fueling in the idle rpm range down(or up) and see if the idle stabilizes. Bouncing idle can be caused by the ECU trying to self correct for too rich or too lean or a condition, then it over compensates, cuts fuel, etc.
Just a heads up and another reason to get a chipped ECU.
so how does crome work as far as tuning, do i need to add a usb to my chipped p28? and just reprogram the chip with crome on a lap top, sorry if its a dumb Q iv heard a lot of people using it just never heard how or where to get it
wow lot of info thanks! yes the closest chip i could find is for 440cc injectors 28 psi, as far as the fpr i have a pile of fprs and was not sure if there where diff kinds like raising rate, is there a way to tell by looking at them? also i have a 3 bar map on it. i was going to try ajusting the fueling on the safc but i ended up just yanking it out. i traded some kid a bunch of parts for what was supposed to be a p28 with s300 but its just another chipped p28 with a usp cord that had 5 pins that plug in to something on the board with 6 pins, not sure if its anything or if i just got a tube steak to the rear, sound like anything?
i ditched the chipped p28 and got hondata s300
rc 1000 cc injectors
ramhorn manifold
inovative wide band o2
a radiator off of a mini austin rover
ditched the fmu and adjustable fpr and just slapped an oem on
well i took it for a drive up and down the road it was running a little lean but still breaking the tires loose in low rpm 5th gear pulls
now after i took a crack at tuning the s300 and put in what i could like injector size ect but now she is running supper rick and fouling plugs fast, i was wondering if anyone knew how to adjust the voltage and dead time in the fuel comp window
and my biggest issue, yes there's more, my crv tranny only works when it wants to, the first time it happened i thought it was toast but you can put it in any gear (5spd) and let out the clutch and no noise sound movement or idle drop :shock:
but later in the day it started to work just fine now its doing it again id like to get it tuned on a dyno but i cant without this tranny working its not the clutch its a bring new hd act six puck kit with all the fixxins also the rear drive shaft out put is not hooked to a drive line but that's not supposed to matter yet i don't have a second set of eyes to see if it moves
any help would be epic im trying to get it at least have road ready for my friends memorial thanks.