4wd built gsr turbo build first start up need help
crv-tecwagon
New Wagonist
so to start ill say what shes got
84mm sleeved built gsr turbo
550cc injectors
fmu
chipped p28 chip is for 28 psi
afc2 vtec controller
greddy profec 2 boost controller
exturnal coil
pieced together turbo kit
obd0 obd1 jumper for ecu
walbro 255 fuel pump
and a bunch i cant remember
so i started it up she has a perfect idle a little touchy if you give it gas to hard its dies but if you eas in to it it revs up
but my turbo manifold starts to glow red even at idle, my question is could my injectors be to big or do i need to lower the fuel pressure its at 40 psi any help will be killer im newer to turbo, at least to this magnitude.
84mm sleeved built gsr turbo
550cc injectors
fmu
chipped p28 chip is for 28 psi
afc2 vtec controller
greddy profec 2 boost controller
exturnal coil
pieced together turbo kit
obd0 obd1 jumper for ecu
walbro 255 fuel pump
and a bunch i cant remember
so i started it up she has a perfect idle a little touchy if you give it gas to hard its dies but if you eas in to it it revs up
but my turbo manifold starts to glow red even at idle, my question is could my injectors be to big or do i need to lower the fuel pressure its at 40 psi any help will be killer im newer to turbo, at least to this magnitude.
Comments
O and no wide band system, could it be that i got the two black wires on the o2 switched? also i got a new 3 bar map sensor
could bad readings from that do it or maybe i need to get smaller injectors.
-Why do you have a chipped ECU, yet you are still running a FMU?
-Why do you have all that money into a sleeved and built GSR, yet you are running tiny 550cc injectors? (Plus 550cc injectors will be on a dangerously high duty cycle at 28psi)
-And why do you have that built of a motor, and put all this time into your wagon, yet you don't have a wideband? (This would really help you now, and down the line when diagnosing engine problems.)
Not trying to sound like a dick, just seems like you have some other problems that need to be worked out, besides the one you posted. If I were you Google this problem and see what else you could find, because I bet this problem has been had by someone else that has turboed a built Honda engine.
true but i do not have a wide band yet but ill hook the gauge up next
the fmu i was told i needed as a piggy back to the fpr since one works of boost and the other works of vacuum, and yes i should get a wide band iv just not looked in to one yet because adding all these things at once its hard to tell what your going to need later or all together ya know, i did a lot of googleing and found it could be my o2, my retarted timing, or my psi could be low on the fpr
yes i was sure to make those i swaped them a build a long time ago, learned that lesson, but yes the map sensor is on the tb now.
With your setup, I think you need to eliminate the vtec controller. The P28 should be able to handle most of your tuning needs with the proper tuning Program like Crome. I saw a picture of your FMU and if it's that square blue thing with the gauge then I think that's just a regular fuel pressure regulator and not a FMU, which is a good thing since you need that.
Sorry for making this so long, but is there anyway you can verify if the chipped p28 was tuned for 550cc injectors? I definitely don't think its possible to even tune up to 28psi on 550's. That's is just way too low. If anything, I have a feeling its chipped to run way bigger injectors and if you put smaller injectors in there, then the ECU is probably trimming too much fuel thinking it has bigger injectors.
if your manifold is glowing red at idle you are most likely running VERY lean and im sure your motor isnt appreciating the abuse. either that or your timing is very retarded and combustion is taking place outside of the combustion chamber heating up the manifold.
i have a a/f gauge and a four wire o2, the blue thing you see is a fpr and the silver thing to the left of it that piggy backs off of it is an fmu, the fpr works off vacuum and the fmu works off boost and no the oem fpr u see on there is just a drilled out fitting, also the chip i have is made for 440cc injectors. and cant i ajust the narrow throutle to give more fuel on the vtec controler? would it just be easyer to get the s300 hondata or am i going to want/need dyno time to tune it.
O come on its at least 1990's cool lol.
i am very confident your car will run much better with a decent base map and s300.
so should i get 750 or 1000cc cause if im going to spend the money im going to get the right stuff, i got a pile of oem fpr's but am i going to want to increase the fuel psi? already got walbro 255, wide band kit is on its way now. no msd, just external coil.
ok i assumed the external coil and cap were MSD...couldnt tell for sure from teh pics. either way, OEM Honda Cap and Coil (proven time and time again even at 600+whp) ...K.I.S.S.
as for the fuel pressure...keep it stock (43.5psi) just leave it there until your farther down the road. all of your fuel needs will be handled with the larger injectors, controlled through the tuning software you choose...when you start pushing the setup to its limits, you will have a better understanding (and your tuner will advise you as well) of what needs to be done with the fuel system. there are a lot of variables, and even more options, when it comes to what you need to run, and why, dont cross that bridge until you come to it. ....K.I.S.S.
for fuel injectors...i guess i hadnt noticed you never said what turbo your running? (i assumed it was someting decent size, when you said "28psi" and a sleeved motor lol) fuel injector size is figured directly from how much HP you want to make. 750cc will get you around 450whp on pump gas/race gas. in all honesty thats where i would start...those injectors allow you to make HP that will scare the pee out of you...and are easy to sell when you want MOAAAR! 1000cc+ are fairly finicky and it further compounds things when your trying to iron out all the issues a new setup ALWAYS has. again....K.I.S.S.
hope this helps! any more ??'s keep firing
only thing i dont like about this advice is the projected plugs. bcp's are projected, where bkr's are ISO projected. the BKR protrudes a good 1/8th inch less into the combustion chamber and comes with a shorter ground strap. this makes them much less likely to cause pre-ignition.
i would go with BKR7E plugs. NGK stock number 4644
i would go with BKR7E plugs. NGK stock number 4644[/quote]
im not sure the part number but im usiing the ngk iridiums they have always treated me well.
KISS hah ya we used that one in the army alot keep it simple yes i agree and its funny because the car was being set up for a lite build when my friend told me he was selling the race gsr he had stashed for years, so i scraped my b20 v-tec and started mocking the crv tranny ith the gsr, that why it seems im mashing diff crap together, and deff a mess but i see what your saying, i did have another Q, should i be running retarded on my timing and if so by how much, i heard 2 degrees, and also isnt the fpr supposed to increase psi with vacuum if so will i hit fuel cut once i hit boost?
1st off, dont use the iridiums...use either of the ones Danz and I have recommended.
2nd, run stock timing. all ignition timing related changes will be done via the tuning software.
3rd, the FPR your describing is a rising rate regulator...you dont need one of those. the stock regulator is not a rising rate regulator.
4th, if you follow what i said with the fuel/tuning system, your fuel cut will be set in the tuning software you choose, and wont kick in until you reach the set PSI level (or any other variable you set, some softwares have various fuel/ignition cut options) all of which will be set by the tuner when he tunes your car...he can describe what is what and how its setup at your tuning appointment.
you are using all these items right now to control everything, but what im telling you is that all of that is taken care of within the ECU, it has the ability to control everything...very very well. the items your using as control right now, are severally outdated and are mostly designed for "universal" systems.
i do agree with you on the differences between the 2 plugs (i suppose thats not really up for debate lol) but its my personal preference to get the plug as close to the center of the combustion area as i can...its just something i prefer (without getting into a boring technical spark plug convo lol) i have ran both, and to be honest both plugs work very well and i personally havent run into a situation where 1 plug was a problem, while the other was the solution. never had a problem running either style on my own cars or cars i've tuned. i could make a legitimate case for both, but thats for another time/place
i like them on NA cars. but when i get into the whole charged air situation, i like the BKR.
but yea, they both work.
as for iridiums... they arent all bad. the issue is gapping them down when required, and finding the right heat range. i know they make BKR8EIX plugs but i highly doubt the OP is running them. probably OEM replacement iridums which are going to be WAY too hot.
nice okay thats what i had mine at cool, i got something right lol., its going to be a hot sec before i work on it since its at the beach at my friends house, im going to wait till i get the hondata and the injectors so hopefully in a few weeks, iv been selling mad parts out of my garage and on ebay.
so i was going to buy the hondata and the 1000cc injectors but i got fired from my job, but i am getting unemployment soon so ill get it then,thanks oregon. but anyway i put on a oem fpr removed the fmu, ajustable fpr, and the apexi afc2 and also found that my timing was retarded one notch now she starts ok and the turbo manifold doesnt glow red hot in seconds anymore but there is a bit of idle issue from 1500 rpm to almost dieing, and it does die if i dont hold the gas till it warms a bit, its like a vacume leak but im sure its not i used poly urithane gaskests ill post a video when i can but i think it might be the aicv or tps not sure also i got a wide band kit im going to put on when the weather gets better, so does the wide band go on as well as a normal o2? let me know what you guys think thanks.