Skunk2 or Ingalls

simplyhondasimplyhonda Council Member
in Suspension, Braking & Wheels
I know everyone has a different opinion on their suspension setup and there are 1001 different setups out there. I've read through many articles on here. What I want to know is simply if you are running Skunk2 UCAs or Ingalls adjustable ball joints, and how you like them. I have narrowed it down to these two. (I think)! Skunk2 seems a little pricer. Just feeling things out before I make a decision. I'm sitting on about a 2" drop all the way around with KYB GR2's & H&R springs. I am just adding spacers in the rear so front is what I want to focus on. Any imput is appriciated.

Comments

  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    I will be going with the Ingalls kit. No real reason, just cheaper and the guy who does my alignments finds them easier to work with
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    I have the skunk2's on my sedan and I love them. Very good quality parts.
  • saveacivicsaveacivic New Wagonist
    Nobody is going to like me for it but I'm going to give my opinion anyway. The slider camber kits scare me because they SLIDE! Yes, it's rare but years and years ago (I'm not that old) I hit bottom very hard. It slid out of whack (it was not Skunk brand but it was a similar design).
    Try to look at this LOGICALLY in the pics below, forget what you have heard and try to make sense of it. Ingalls and Skunk have sliders that are tightened by 4 nuts/bolts or 1 nut/bolt. YES, it would take a very good hit to make it happen but I am the perfect example. It is not likely, but with years of vibration, it is possible.
    Again, this is not rocket science and I'm not saying yours will slide. But it is possible and I am not the only one it has happened to, google it. Progress "STYLE" cannot slide, they are fixed at either 1.75 degrees or .75 degrees. It's just an awful lot to bargain with that 1 or 4 10mm nuts/bolts will hold under a hard hit. I live in Oregon, there are plenty of bad roads in the country that you cannot see in the dark. I'm just saying I have to say on the side of caution. Skunk is an awesome company, with expertise in a lot of things. In my ever so humble opinion, this is not one of them.

    Skunk2
    341.jpg

    Ingalls
    342.jpg

    Progress
    343.jpg
  • ilikehonda2ilikehonda2 Band Wagon
    :lol: :lol: :lol:

    I have the skunk2's and they SUCK big time! Just like saveacivic said they are bond to move with a big pot hole or a big bump. For me it was a pot hole I hit on a back road and not only did one side move but it bent a little as well. I'm always hearing about how skunk2 has really good quality but the arms SUCK!

    I would rather spend 50buck on some ebay specials, then spend 250 on some name brand arms.

    I second you going with some non sliding arms or kit
  • absolutetintingabsolutetinting Wagonist
    go with ingalls. had them on 5+ cars never had a problem.

    when theres a problem, its installer error.

    skunk to me is bottom end stuff, that works.

    my 2cent.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    I had the Skunk gen 1 for over 5 years in my hatch, without a single problem.

    Word of advice- avoid potholes, because apparently you guys aren't
  • dirtydirtydirtydirty Wagonist
    the adjustable ones are needed if your in need of +-1.5 camber movement cause the locked ones dont offer much correction
    if i was running a fixed height on my car id run the locked style yet coilovers are to much fun to play with
  • saveacivicsaveacivic New Wagonist
    well at least i'm not the only one that it has happened to haha. That's more than I have expected. The problem can be the installer, you are absolutely right. But the bolts are a weak grade and so you can tighten them all you want (what is the torque spec?). If you can say you will never hit a pot hole, ever, go for it. Otherwise google the issue. It's worth ten minutes of looking up. I remember posting it on HT and there were several concurrences. Or at the very least call ingalls and skunk and ask for torque specs on the slider bolts. I'm not saying the progress ones are awesome metal (they are grade 8 though!).
  • saveacivicsaveacivic New Wagonist
    dirtydirty wrote:
    the adjustable ones are needed if your in need of +-1.5 camber movement cause the locked ones dont offer much correction
    if i was running a fixed height on my car id run the locked style yet coilovers are to much fun to play with


    the progress ones have a 1.75 degree setting :)
  • dirtydirtydirtydirty Wagonist
    lol i understand they have 1.75 degree but when i dropped my EK hatch i needed almost 4 so that leaves me with limited systems that offer that amount of give
  • saveacivicsaveacivic New Wagonist
    whoa thats really slammed :) it doesnt need to be at a zero though, it's actually better for cornering if you dont. but for daily driving you are right sir...
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    There a lot of factors(budget,time,tools,speed,looks).
    Skunk2:fast install vs. special tool.Time down to install & $$$ for spec. tool or machine shop cost actually puts them about even or more.
    Ingalls Ball Joint:fast 1-nut camber adjust vs. 4 bolt adj.
    :?: Small prob:If ball joint needs replacing .Does that mean you need to spend $85(Ingalls) vs. Skunk2($30)?

    :shock: Observation :The slotted sliders(SPC,Ingalls,generics).It looks like one company makes these for everyone or they're copies.The one I looked at looked OK till I took it apart.The bushing was poly.The flaw in the design is NO metal bushing sleeves.This caused 2 bad things in the sample I had.The slider cut the poly bushing.The bushing only had 2 contact points instead of a whole sleeve so will wear thin(as in the one I looked at),then wear out over time.Basically the poly bushings won't last long.Maybe the better ones have sleeves.The one I had looked like a sleeve,but was actually only the poly bushing.
  • 1988rt1988rt Senior Wagonist
    Ingalls all the way, cheaper and easy
  • saveacivicsaveacivic New Wagonist
    SiWagon wrote:
    :shock: Observation :The slotted sliders(SPC,Ingalls,generics).It looks like one company makes these for everyone or they're copies.The one I looked at looked OK till I took it apart.The bushing was poly.The flaw in the design is NO metal bushing sleeves.This caused 2 bad things in the sample I had.The slider cut the poly bushing.The bushing only had 2 contact points instead of a whole sleeve so will wear thin(as in the one I looked at),then wear out over time.Basically the poly bushings won't last long.Maybe the better ones have sleeves.The one I had looked like a sleeve,but was actually only the poly bushing.

    What brand? Progress and MRC both have the sleeves. I've been selling both for years. I have the MRC's on the shop car
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    The type I'm referring to are pictured above under saveacivic's posting titled Ingalls sliders (the 2nd pic).The Progress and MRC do have sleeves,but are NOT sliders.

    I hope that helped?
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