1990 EF5 Civic RT-Si (4-door, 4WD sedan) Advice / Transformation Thread

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  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Phew, good to know it's normal! Thanks!

    Edit: Have you put this on a dyno yet btw?
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    Grifty wrote: »
    Have you put this on a dyno yet btw?

    Nope, the turbo gear isn't actually on there yet :P but dyno tuning is part of that plan.

    Spending a bit of money on brakes this week. The plan from there is to start collecting parts for the conversion to OBD1 soon (dizzy, ECU, wiring adapters). Then there's fabrication of some of the parts (down pipe, IC piping) then putting it all in.
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Good stuff!

    I'm looking at doing a brake upgrade on mine soon, switch to 262mm front's and a 15/16 master cylinder. Later down the track I'll also do a rear disc conversion.

    You can't swap the front knuckle because of the wheel sensors but you being in NZ you may be able to find DA hubs with provision for the sensors from a JDM car.
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    I'm thinking I'll keep everything the same dimensions, just much nicer quality rotors and pads, perhaps a 15/16 master cylinder too. I figure it will stop quicker than with its currently decent braking power and totally minimize fade. It also means I don't have to mess with too many components, brake bias, etc.

    I have briefly looked into rear disc conversion before but totally gave up on the idea because of how complicated it seemed due to rear axles and everything. I'll start with the front brakes and see if that's sufficient. Don't forget to change your proportioning valve too!
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    I thought There isn't a prop vale as it's ABS? I don't recall seeing one under the master cylinder but I haven't paid too much attention.
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    Ah true I did not realise that!
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Just a heads up when swapping the master cylinder, you'll need a M12 to M10 reducer for the rear brake line.

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  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    Grifty wrote: »
    Just a heads up when swapping the master cylinder, you'll need a M12 to M10 reducer for the rear brake line.

    Does it not depend on where the 15/16 MC comes from? I imagine you must have one from an Integra. I think some Prelude ones fit straight up to everything with no adjustments. But that reducer also doesn't look difficult to arrange

    I'm curious if it has made your pedal feel very stiff? Though I guess it will be different for you if you have changed your calipers too
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    So, I made a little progress.

    Got some new front cross-drilled and slotted rotors and custom made pads:

    202.jpg

    Stuck with OEM size but they perform scarily well. A little too easy to get them to lock up so having the ALB is nice. Since bedding in, they seem impossible to make fade. The brake feel is nice and standard, but the only downside is that they make a horrible noise at low speeds.

    I got an OBD1 ECU, socketed and chipped with a basemap for my engine and injectors. Brand new OBD1 distributor. I got wiring adapter harnesses for both the ECU and dizzy. Bung plug to block off where the cam angle sensor is which can be removed when converted to OBD1. Rocker cover seals and new turbo gaskets. I'll get more pics of the goodies.

    Then a few weeks ago, an uninsured driver pulled out infront of me, causing a bit of a bump. No structural damage but I was pretty fucked off after all this work. After many stressful worries with my insurance, such as them not appreciating the rarity of the car, time spent on it or having them see it as more valuable than the average 1990 Honda Civic; I was able to keep it and get it fixed. With some fresh paint it looks better than ever.

    I've since lowered it a tiny bit more and done a compression test. I got a difference of 5psi between highest and lowest, but I guess I should get a leak-down test done too.

    Next, to find someone who can do a little fabrication for me...
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    Goodies:

    256.jpg
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    258.jpg

    Car:

    259.jpg
    260.jpg
    261.jpg

    I wish my wheels had a lower offset too. One day I'll get some new ones, but all round it's not too bad to look at in the meantime I reckon.
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    OBD-1 swap?
    When is this thing gonna be boosted? I am interested how the ZC does!
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    bkmc24 wrote: »
    OBD-1 swap?
    When is this thing gonna be boosted? I am interested how the ZC does!

    Yep all the bits are there to swap to OBD1 now. Watch this space, man. Not sure when exactly because it'll depend on how much time and money is required for fabrication and tuning. But I have pretty much all the parts, even to the finer details. Give me a couple of months, it is a painfully slow process haha. No one is more keen to see it boosting than I am!
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    I am familiar with slow processes lol. My H2B hatch has been a 3 year deal and STILL isn't ready haha. I'll keep checking, because if you have good luck boosting stock with ARP's then thats the route I'll be going with my RT.
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    good stuff loving the build super jelly
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Good stuff man!

    Yes most 15/16 master cylinders will work apart from a EK as the front line is mounted vertically.

    I actually thought the one I installed was 15/16 but it turned out to be 7/8.

    Brake upgrade will come down the track later, I just did pads and rotors for now and they pull up OK. Cant seem to get the pedal 100% firm though, god this ABS is a pain to bleed haha.
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Updates on this beast?
  • PootyTangPootyTang Band Wagon
    Aw no, I am 2 years behind :(

    I'll need to take the time to do a big write-up and get this up to date. But I can start with a TL;DR:

    Got it running the turbo but had to get a different kit made up and sell the initial one as it didn't fit very well. Long long process but got it tuned and it made just shy of 150kw at the wheels. Had some head gasket issues, it was blowing air into the coolant under boost and getting hot. I think that was because the block and head weren't planed when I put in the cometic gasket which in hindsight was a real noob mistake. Then I replaced the head gasket and had the head rebuilt. Then I took it out for a good test drive and it was smoking pretty bad, somehow burning a lot of oil. Turns out oil in the combustion lowers your effective octane rating. While doing a full boost high rev 3rd gear pull up a big hill it blew a rod out the side of the block! Many lessons learned.

    That was at least 6 months ago and all I have done since then is tow it to the garage of the new place I just moved into. Engine will come out and be pulled apart and inspected. My spare engine is going to be rebuilt with forged rods and pistons. Re-assemble, run-in, and probably re-tune!
  • GriftyGrifty Wagonist
    Keen to see the big write up! Sounds like it was fun while it lasted
  • Anymore updates?
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